good morning my little nerds I am DrShireen Idris and welcome to my YouTube channel every Saturday morning we do a pillow talk get your asses out of bed get your pens and papers ready today we are going to dive in deep into the world of Korean sunscreens who the hell am I I'm DrShireen Idris a board-certified dermatologist I'm here to help you help yourself Empower yourself through knowledge so you can navigate the bullshitty noisy world of the beauty industry plus I'm also here to help you help yourself when it comes to cosmetic procedures medical conditions and life if you want to take it from me feel free to sign up to pillowtalkderm. com our newsletter where you can be in the know and you can communicate directly with me so testing viral K Beauty sunscreens is the topic of the day because very honestly the sunscreens we have in the US are not great they're really Antiquated and they're old and they're not ahead of the curve not in the technology sense not in the ingredient story sense and it needs to be something that we as a country really push for better regulations around why the hell are we so behind in the U. S because sunscreens are considered an over-the-counter drug which by the way I totally support because you don't want to have some random brand say carrot extract is going to protect your skin to an SPF we don't need that crap and we need to make sure that what we're getting is actually legit so I support that but we do need to work on moving at a faster pace and changing with the times because the last time a UV filter was approved in the US was crickets 1999 before Y2K and I bet you a lot of you don't even know what Y2K is because it was a long long time ago which has really embarrassante so that is why when you look towards Asia and you look towards Australia and even Europe they're more advanced when it comes to sunscreens because they have come a much longer way a much further way and they've really developed and honed in on different types of filters the other reason why it's so hard for the US to actually push forward a new UV filter is because companies have to submit and I have to be willing to invest money behind new ingredients not knowing whether or not the government is going to go ahead and approve that filter so you can end up going Millions out of your pocket trying to get a new UV filter approved and at the end of the day it's a Gamble and it's not approved and nobody wants to take that bet so unless we have a Robin Hood or some bajillionaire philanthropist who's willing to do it for us or quite honestly one of the massive conglomerates like L'Oreal who want to try to pave the way for the smaller Indie Brands it's really going to be hard to do personally I would much rather invest in r d and things that I know you guys could use than spend all my money and potentially go bankrupt having started my own brand and not have some sort of guarantee that it's going to get approved or that I could even use it so that is the real deal so how do we evaluate sunscreens when you're looking at sunscreens right you know what SPS stands for by now it's sun protection factor and it basically tells you that the amount of time that the sun is going to take to get you to have any sort of minimal redness dose on your skin it extends that time so if it took you five minutes to get read was SPF 30 it's going to probably be 30 times 5 150 minutes to get red that's sort of how it works but that's not the full story sun protection also protects against two types of ultraviolet rays UVA and UVB UVA a stands for aging the UV rays that give that you know instant aging effect over not instant some people instance aging effects over time wrinkling Etc UVB stands for burning that instant reddening and the burning usually associated with the sun most recently broad spectrum SPF has to incorporate both UVA and UVB and that is the type of sunscreen you always want to look for if you're shopping for a sunscreen in the U.
S you want something that covers for both you want to look for the broad spectrum on the sunscreen now if we take a flight and go to Korea SPF doesn't cover for both and you're probably thinking to yourself what the hell so how is it better because they're more specific s covers for UVB they have another rating scale when it comes to UVA protection and that's their pa rating scale and you've seen this on numbers of bottles where you see PA plus plus plus or PA Plus or PA plus plus so the PA system is the protection against UVA now both UVA and UVB can cause skin cancer but you want to really know what you're getting this is how you know it is based on the PPD the persistent pigment darkening the color that is Left Behind from UVA it goes up to four plus so PA plus offers some UV protection approximately 50 to 75 percent PA plus plus offers 75 to 88 UVA protection PA triple plus so three pluses is a high UVA protection within the 88 to 94 and anything PA plus plus plus offers more than 94 UVA protection so clearly the higher the plus is the better it goes but the most number of pluses you can get is for today we're going to go ahead and test 11 different sunscreens all of which are SPF 50 across the board in terms of UVB protection and out of the 11 only to our pa3 pluses the rest are all pa4 pluses so we are going to start off with hybrid sunscreens and hybrid sunscreens combine both physical and chemical quote unquote filters in them we cannot talk about Korean beauty sunscreens without talking about my favorite sunscreen which is the beauty of Joe Sean I absolutely fell in love with this particular sunscreen screen it retails for 18 the reason I love it is because not only does it cover for all of UVA UVB it is extremely lightweight in texture and it goes on so silky smooth it does not irritate the eyes it is hydrating so if somebody is a little bit oily and doesn't want to use a moisturizer underneath their sunscreen you absolutely do not need one and if you are dry and you think you're not that dry this might just be enough in terms of a moisturizer with sun protection the other reason I love it is because four different filters two of them which I find interesting are the tinosorb M which has by the way been around since 2002 so the fact that it's not approved in the US blows my mind it is a hybrid in between a physical and a chemical sunscreen and it works really well in combination with other UV filters it is clearly not available in the US there is also something called iscotrisinal also known as diathlhexylbutametal triazone which is a very oil soluble UV filter and I like it because it is suitable for water resistant water repelling formulations it is great for activity use especially if you're somebody who is a runner who wants to be running outside Etc other key ingredients as niacinamide which helps with your barrier function and glycerin paste so this one is the beauty of Joe Sean FYI for all of these sunscreens do not buy them on Amazon because you do not know who you're buying it from I will link them below what the hell they sell them in the U. S I do not know but if they have figured out some loophole to get around God bless because at least you can get access to some of these sunscreens the second one that I really like is by the brand purito so I'm going to talk about two Pareto sunscreens this is their daily go-to sunscreen it is an SPF 50 plus with pa4 pluses it is also both a chemical and a physical sunscreen with five different filters the tin absorb M that I just talked about in the beauty of Joe Shaw but it also has one known as juvenile t-150 this is exohexal triazone it is extremely photostable in absorption of all available UVB filters today and it's a newer generation of a chemical sunscreen additionally there is some titanium dioxide in this which is a classic physical filter that we have in the U. S as well as two other ones which I'll talk about in one of the other products that we're going to cover it has centella asiatica which is nice to help calm your skin and it also has an antioxidant known as medical side it retails for 21 I think I prefer this one if you have dry skin it does not leave a white fast and it has a nice creamy texture as you just saw if you have oily skin perito has this particular one called The Daily soft touch sunscreen which is a combination of three different filters the juvenile t150 juvenile a antennasorb s it covers for basically the whole gamut from UVA to UVB like the other two sunscreens but it also has ceramides in here so it's great for winter it's great if you have a broken Skin Barrier but what's fascinating about this particular one is when you apply it it goes in and dries pretty fast so I would say this is probably one of the better ones if you have oily skin and you don't want to feel like a slick grease ball shifting into only chemical sunscreens because those three were hybrids they contained combinations of both chemical and physical we are going to now talk about only chemical sunscreens the first one is the one that has only a pa3 plus rating so remember what that means it only covers 88 if I'm not mistaken again to 94 UVA protection it is not the highest in terms of UVA but it is SPF 50 in terms of UVB it's one by Misha it's called Essence Sun milk it has five different filters including some us-based filters like avobenzone octocrylene octal salicylate and octanoxate but it has tenazorb S as well antinosorb s is a UVB filter a very strong UVB filter available outside of the U.
S over here it is lightweight pretty easy to apply it goes on very very watery you don't really feel it but I will say a little bit sensitive around the eyes so if you have sensitive skin not necessarily my favorite one there's no white cast and it is very lightweight next up is one that very embarrassingly my colleague at work bought from Amazon which I reprimanded him for you never want to buy any sunscreen especially enough a Korean beauty one on Amazon because I don't know where this one was made so I'm not going to be applying this one to my face he bought it off of Amazon I will link it below where you should potentially buy it from but this is buree's UV Aqua Rich watery gel it's 10 bucks pa4 plus it has four different filters including octanoxate which is that US1 plus 3 filters that are not approved in the US juvenile a juvenile tea antennasorb s it has glycerin Arginine which is an amino acid and a primary building block for collagen but it also has like a bajillion types of hyaluronic acid in it so it's not my favorite but people seem to like it heat tends to be very oily and he claims that it leaves no oily residue but I told him you should just try the Pareto daily soft touch sunscreen instead then we have isn't tree this one had a massive boom I would say about like 10 months ago on social media it's their hyaluronic acid watery Sun gel SPF 50 it retails for 26. 50 it is a chemical sunscreen you guys could probably know if you know me by now I don't love hyaluronic acid not just because I don't think it is as hydrating as people claim it is but more so because when you have low molecular weight hyaluronic acid low molecular weight hyaluronic acid tends to be more pro-inflammatory it's what actually occurs in a wound when your skin breaks down your highlight it gets broken down into smaller pieces and that triggers an inflam military response to allow for wound healing I have noticed it in patients who have rosacea that their skin tends to be more red when they do use a hyaluronic acid serum in my practice and that is sort of how all of this ha situation has been brought about when it comes to my perspective on using topical low molecular hyaluronic acid but I will say it is very elegant it is very smooth you can see why people like applying it on their face and if you're not sensitive and it's the only ha product you want to use knock yourself out there is no scent at all and I will say it is beautifully formulated if you want to give it a try then we have Claire's all day Airy sunscreen for 21 dollars again K4 plus it has four different filters including the juvenile tea tin absorb s juvenile a and one known as parsol SLX which is a UVB filter but it doesn't cover the whole gamut of UVB it covers everything from 290 to approximately 320 you guys can see it below this one has niacinamide as well as an anti-acne ingredient known as berberus vulgaris root extract so if you have acne and you want to have something in there to kind of help a little bit with acne it's very easy very easy to use very lightweight fragrance free no white cast I would say it absorbs easily in my hand I literally applied now like one two three four five six seven sunscreens my hand does not feel gross surprisingly from all of these sunscreens next up interesting one one known known as tocobo bio watery sunscreen and this sunscreen and this one retails for 20 bucks why is this one interesting this one is interesting because it has a UV filter also known as mixoral SX or tirif talid dying dye camphor sulfonic acid why do I care about this particular UV filter this particular UV filter was originally proprietary to L'Oreal remember what I said at the beginning of this video you need a large company to push forward a UV filter so you can get approved L'Oreal did just that but they did it in 1989 and the patent has run out but you will only really find this filter in L'Oreal Brands like Garnier Vichy L'Oreal those are all L'Oreal company under the L'Oreal Company brands so they all have had access to this UV filter most recently because the patent I think has run out K Beauty Brands are using the filter as well this is tokobo it also has tenazorb s it also has the juvenile that I talked about and the parcel SLX so when you're thinking of tokobo you're covering UVA and UVB in addition it is very watery as you guys can see super super lightweight I think if you're oily this is a great one because it just Glides on and disappears completely it has niacinamide and it also has antibacterial ingredients so cuddleria by calensis root extract and philodendron and murensi bark extract so those are all of my liquid sunscreens and because I think sunscreens are interesting when they come in different formulations I'm going to talk about two sticks and one powder now sticks and powders are not supposed to be your main stay source of sunscreen it's not the first thing I use during the day but if you live in a city if you're out and about and running around then you just want to have a touch-up or a light reapplication I'm all for them but I'm not for them as your main source of sunscreen that's number one number two know that you need a lot more than what the aad says which is I think four swipes quite frankly it's more if you want to get the etiquette coverage but if you are again wearing your makeup going from eating meeting and trying to do your best to get some sun protection something is better than nothing so don't freak yourself completely out and trying to get a million swipes all over your face so to kogo the same one I just talked about has a sunscreen stick as you guys can see I love the clicker it just feels very very very efficient it's very lightweight it doesn't feel greasy at all cynic is another brand down here which looks like that other European brand that I'm blanking on at the moment with the blue and the orange it looks pretty similar surprised anyway this guy is SPF 50 as well it retails from 10 to 14 it has five different filters as well very easy to apply again a lot more is going to be needed than what you think and it has green tea licorice root and it has a little bit of a natural sort of scent to it even though it has no fragrance and then last is VT which looks like makeup very pretty very elegant I'm surprised Tiffany has not come after them for the blue all of these brands that are basically using other brands colors and this is what it looks like this one has in it zinc oxide so you might feel like you get a little bit of a white or blue cast because I don't know why they would put a blue dye very honestly in something like this it's not really a powder it's more of a cream kind of situation and it feels very siliconey but again it's blue not necessarily my favorite but interesting in terms of just trying to get a light dab for reapplication purposes on the high points of your face where we tend to get skin cancer but that is that and that one retails for 14.
