Forza Motorsport - How I Tune GT Cars (IN DEPTH FULL GUIDE)

Hello YouTube it has been a while I uh took quite a long break from the game and an even longer break from making videos but um I'm back I'm still alive and I'm hoping to make something a little bit educational a little bit helpful especially to my viewers whoever may be left viewing this channel uh that are wishing to improve on Forza Motorsport so the concept of today's video is Basically inside my mind how do I come up with the tune from totally scratch um you know stock settings how do I arrive at the setup

that I arrive at what is my thought process behind each setting if there even is one um and yeah so I'm here to explain that today so what I've done is I've taken a car that I don't have a tune for yet um I haven't done a lot of racing since they split up GT and so I used to have an M6 but then They split up the classes and they changed the build and now my M6 is totally stock no tune ESV has a tune but I don't have a tune on the car um

the thing is I get a lot of comments in my videos asking for tune setups and I have a problem and that's I'm in a team and most of my setups are not even mine and or partially mine I should say uh some of my own numbers mixed with my teammates numbers basically the bottom line Is I don't want to be sharing setups that aren't completely mine I don't think my teammates would totally appreciate that uh so that's why I don't do a lot of Open Source stuff especially in GT so I figured a good

solution is why don't I take you into my mind from a completely stock tune and show you guys my thoughts on how to create a good setup I'm not claiming to be the best tuner I'm not even the best tuner in my team I would say I'm somewhere in the Middle like I can make a pretty good car but for myself uh but yeah I hope this video is helpful right so the car I'm going to be using as an example today is the m6 in the GT2 spec um uh what I've done here is

I just to make sure this is stock I went into a Lobby I reset stock tune settings so it's on the correct spec build it has completely stock tune settings as you'll see I'll go through them and we're going To start from here we're going to do a basically just a little test drive lap on stock settings and I'm going to lay down some Basic Ground rules that I always start with in my GT tuning there are certain settings that I almost never deviate from and we'll start there first so I'm going to go ahead

and start raise and we'll see uh this car you know it's a stock tune it's not going to drive great and I can already tell you the First thing I'm going to changes the arrow settings but for you know the sake of example we're just going to test drive the car completely stock settings I'll show you the tune right now actually I should have probably done that in a pits but car tun car so stock we have staggered tire pressures which isn't always bad but they're a little high 31 and 29 uh stock gearbox um

stock camper settings are usually pretty high for my liking a Little bit of negative toe five Caster um these randomly assigned Rob bars that I almost never keep you know the Springs actually might not be too far off from what I end up running um this sort of range of of softness is pretty standard for a tune of Mind ride height comes slammed I may raise the front depending but it'll probably stay at the lowest setting uh bump and rebound rebound is quite low bump is pretty close stock uh Roll center is at Zero uh

dive and squat or yeah the squats a little high probably for GT uh arrow is smack dab in the middle front and rear that's the first thing we're going to change we'll get to that in a little bit brakes obviously they start in the middle on the bias and at 100% which is default pressure and 62 and 16 diff not terribly you know nothing terribly wrong with that differential uh we probably want something a little bit more Aggressive than that uh but we'll also get into that later so that's where we're starting and let's see

how it goes apparently I moved a slider somewhere we're just going to say yes uh okay we can't skip La in free playay so we'll just go from a standing start so the first thing I do when I get into a car that I'm not familiar with is I go to my Telemetry and I try to identify what the power band is where do I want to be in the RP M see this thing Underst wow where do I want to be in the RPMs to uh maximize my efficiency and this is also how I'm

going to determine my gear ratios in the end how close together do I want them to be so as soon as we get out of the s's I'll have a better idea because I'm constantly on and off the power here it's not a very good place to tell so we're going to get out of here and we'll be able to open up the legs here a little bit on this Straightaway so the power starts dropping off right at Red Line it's about upper 470s 476 is at the rev limiter so I know how far it

drops and if I rev it all the way to Red Line and I shift the power comes back in right at that upper 470s Mark again and it's climbing so that actually tells me that these gear ratios are pretty close to properly spaced Out what you're looking for here is is it's okay if your power starts to drop we don't want to shift right at Peak power cuz if we shift right at 500 you see how when I shifted the fourth gear the power dropped to like 420 we're not maximizing our horsepower range if we

shift right when we hit Peak power 500 and then it just drops so low whereas if I ride fourth gear out all the way dropping down Shift the fifth see that actually that was even kind of short but it went down to about 480 when I shifted to fifth it was in the lower 490s that's kind of how I like to do my gears you want to let's say the power drops to 480 when I shift to the next gear I want it to start at 480 and climb that's the goal I'm getting a little

bit ahead of myself but I'm just saying that's the first thing I look at when I get into a Car I'm trying to identify the Power Band if you can make the most ient use of your gears you're already ahead of so many people on the track and you know people just throw willy-nilly gears at things to what they think feels good but I I like to use the horsepower data because any little bit of straight line pull is very important but anyways I'll tell you where I start in most of my GT cars my

tire Pressures are going to fall anywhere between o 275 and 295 I'm most of the time I start right at 28 I'll say 90% of my GT cars are just at 28 it's a very brain dead number you don't really have to think about it a lot um I believe um I don't want to leak too much about my teammates Tunes but I know that we have a Ferrari that has like 29 or 295 pressures um simply because I I think the reason behind that is due to tire wear that Ferrari has Really bad tire

wear issues and I think a slightly higher pressure will um kind of Remedy bad tire wear but it could lead to less grip in other situations but 28 seems to be a good balance for me in GT so that's usually where I keep it now let's say you want to make some very minor adjustments in under steer and over steer balance uh if you raise your front tire pressure or lower your rear tire pressure basically if you have the front higher in the rear That's going to induce a natural under steer bias and the opposite

is true if you have the rear higher than the front that's going to cause a little bit more rotation or over steer so you can play around with that a little bit I usually don't vary more than 1.0 or even5 and in this case I'm probably just going to keep them the same but anyways gearing now gearing so important such an underrated tuning tab here just to extract time um something that a lot of The top players and more like experienced tuners have figured out in this game is that 610 for for whatever reason 610

final drive is just the best setting to run um it seems to react better over bumps and rev limiter like accidental rev limiter hitting uh is the best way I can explain it so I don't you might have experienced this where say you are near the top of a gear and you run over a curb or you hit a bump and your RPM's suddenly Spike and It touches the rev limiter and your car gets stuck on the rev limiter um and it won't come off of it for a little while and it slows you down

a little bit well it seems like with 610 that effect is minimized uh so that's pretty much where everybody seems to Rocket uh some people also claim faster shift times uh 610 I don't know how founded that is but um basically that is why I rock 610 um you can achieve the same gear ratios With almost any number in this range so long as you individually adjust first through six but I like to keep the final drive at 610 that'll mean my first gear number is going to be very low because obviously we don't want

a 34 mph first gear um but yeah so we're going to go ahead and move this number down now this is very car dependent for me do I want my first gear to be strictly a launch gear or do I want my First gear to be usable in hair pins I would say for most of my GT cars I like to have first gear as my launch gear and second gear as my gear that that's dedicated for hair pins just because they can be a little slippery at low RPM and in general first gear is

a little bit more unstable than second gear just with the way it interacts with the differential in this game um long story short first gear you're going to experience a little bit more slip than If you had the same gear ratio but second gear so I like to have first strictly as a launch gear and then mid track mid-race very slow Corners second gear is my bread and butter so with that being said I also have to explain these numbers here under the shift speed column they are not entirely accurate at all which is quite

annoying when it comes to tuning but I have a trick to solve that because those numbers in the shift speed column are not accurate But move your sixth gear so that it matches your first gear all of a sudden you only have one gear right but now you see your true top speed on the left in the uh Benchmark column over there so far it's actually accurate I'm actually surprised but we're going to move first gear up to I like my launch gear to be around 60 I think that's a sweet spot um you don't

want your launch gear to be too short because then you're just going to light up the tires off the Line and you don't want it to be too long because then you'll just bog and everybody will pass you uh so in my experience 60 is is a good spot for first gear you know for like a good 3/4 throttle or or higher launch it it works pretty well and I like my second gear my hairpin gear to be around like 85 so let's see I'll go to 85 on the shift speed column and see where

it puts me wow actually well this is the first time I've ran into this where it's Actually accurate so okay yeah 85 so we'll go with that for now and I want to sort of evenly space out these gears all the way until about I want my top speed to display as 180 um I'm probably not going to see 180 in most cases in this car but you want a little bit of breathing room um you don't want let's say you're on hakone and you hit 175 in six gear you don't want your top speed

to be capped out at Six gear because then you're basically chilling out at less than Peak power next to the rev limiter and also if you're in the draft you could top out by accident so you want a little bit of breathing room on your top speed so I'm going to go ahead and mostly evenly space this out I do this I'm largely looking at the gear graph when I do this and uh I'll make some adjustments at the end here I'm just going to evenly space them out and then see kind of where it

Lands my top speed 177 okay so we're going to extend this see um right okay so I'm at the point now where if I move this to 59 it increases to 176 if I move to 58 177 and then the numbers stop increasing so much this is when it's less gearing limited and more drag limited so you have to be careful when you move your um your final gear this High because you could accidentally Make it like way too long so I'm going to chill right around oh 178.6 that sounds good I don't think the

m6 has a very good top speed like in the you know broad uh spectrum of GT2 cars I think it has really good acceleration though so it's ort of makes up for it but setting my sixth gear I'm going to readjust my fifth through thir since I've already set my first gear as my launch gear and my second gear as my Hairpin gear I'm going to sort of just evenly space out these gears and that to me looks good we'll look at that later in Telemetry and we can make changes if we need to see

if it matches up with Corners properly like there's still adjustments we can make from here but that's going to be my base and with those changes I don't want to get too far ahead of myself I'm going to do a little bit more driving and we'll see how that worked Out so where's my second gear top out yep okay let's look at the Telemetry this third gear is really nice it's right in the middle right in the middle of the power band and these s's it's okay if it drops a little bit yeah that's that's

nice do we want second or third for this third definitely third yeah this is this is Nice I have a feeling we're not going to be making many adjustments from here we just have to identify our shift point now so it's looking like we want to shift right around when the power drops to oh o fifth gear is short hang on I might need to extend their gears here a little bit in the upper range second through fourth felt pretty good but fifth was a little short there 485 jumps back in at 485 and Climbing

so that looked good now this one if you notice when I was in fourth gear and my power dropped to 485 I shift it's already at 500 that means that fifth gear is a little bit too short um when I shift in the fifth gear the RPM is too high and I'm not maximizing my power band in that case so because of that actually you can kind of see on the gear graph my fifth gear relative to the other gear ratios is a little short so I'm just going to extend that like two Clicks and

I'm going to take my six gear up another two clicks let's see how that does so it'll be able to chest it on this uh on this straightaway coming up here second gear that's a nice gear ratio for this chicane exit on this track so what RPM is 485 about 7500 that's a really easy shift point to remember that's a lot closer I like that so I shift at 480 5 and it it it kicks Back in in like the upper 480s that's not the end of the world that's pretty close to maximizing my uh

Power Band I I can take that that's fine so as far as that goes I think we've I we've identified our shift point is 7500 that being the point where my power drops to 485 and when I shift it resumes at 485 and climbing that's the perfect shift point so 7500 that's exactly Red Line if I look at my Tachometer so now I know without being in Telemetry I just have to shift a red line and I know I'm maximizing my power band every time I shift so so far so good I'm liking where that's

going it still feels very under Ste but we're going to fix that here in a second so moving on to alignment okay now guys I have I I have to be honest with you I'm not like the most like I'm not a tuning wizard you know I know how to Make effective setups for me but I'm not always like super sciency when it comes to settings and what exactly they do I know what numbers work in this game for me and I look at other top player setups and they usually end up around the same

range so what I will say in that note is 2 and5 on the negative that's very high camera setting for this game especially in GT we're going to back that down uh I would say a good base just like totally just 15 10 and usually from here I I'll keep that as my base right from here if I want more midc Corner over steer I might increase these by one or two clicks if I think the rear of the car is very unstable especially on like longer Corner exits the car starts to slide a little

bit I'll decrease my rear camper um if I think the front just has too much grip relative to the rear decrease front camper um but for now I'm just going to keep 1510 that's My that's my base I don't know if I'll deviate from that or not we'll see in the future uh and also toe so negative point1 toe interesting as a base it's not like that's terrible but um one thing you'll notice with toe is that little adjustments will go a long way so you'll feel .1 de and what tow does essentially in in

simplified terms again you know I'm not like a tuning God or whatever but say you add uh 0.1 front toe that's going to make your turn in a Lot sharper it's going to feel a little bit more Twitchy um and that can be good but in GT and cars that are already kind of Twitchy especially in like Fast transition scenarios I tend to stay away from that my front toe is almost always 0 on GT cars rear toe is something I play around with a lot more than front toe um say you add .1 degrees

of rear toe that is going to make it so that in Your mid corner like kind of like mid the late corner to when you're getting on the throttle you're going to feel more rotation it's hard it's hard to explain like say you're say you're on a very long corner like something like grand oak or Mello or whatever and and you're getting on the throttle pretty early on a long high-speed exit I think adding rear toe can help the car Point around faster um which in some cases can be Good in some cases it can

really bite you in the butt uh because it'll cause you to scrub a little bit or like get a little slide and you'll lose Corner speed so be careful with toe it a little goes a long way is is the way I look at toe um also it uh inversely if you want something more stable you can go negative in the rear this will make the rear more planted on throttle um I see a lot of people if they're having trouble with certain cars they'll just do like Point negative point1 in the rear and that's

what the car came with stock and that's fine um but that will keep the car more stable and if you want less like super Twitchy turn in you can go you know one or two clicks negative in the front same thing whoops um and one thing you'll also notice um for some reason these car stock um they'll come like misaligned at the center here it's like negative 0.0 and positive 0.0 it's never it's not Like a true zero so I almost consider this negative 0.05 and this positive 0.05 a little tricky can do if you

want to truly zero out this value just take it all the way to 5.0 and then take it back to Center oh wow I didn't even have to go that far it just Zer well anyways the the basic gist of it is if you go all the way over here and then You come back it'll give you a true zero which I'm not even sure if I wanted that to be honest um I'm I'm I'm more of an aggressive driving style type of guy so really this slightly above Center rear toast setting um might be

good for me and if I want to dial it back in the future I can always like put this to true zero Caster oh man um Caster is one of those one of those mystery settings for Me oh let me change this too before I forget Caster you know and I wish I could provide better info about this but the reality is with my setups is this is the only setting I run and it's I I don't I don't even know how to explain it whenever I lower this the car just feels weird it feels

like it doesn't turn correctly it's very hard for me to explain um especially in in GT I maybe like down to like 6.5 but I I just always run seven and I tune around That personally um one thing that I do know that I've heard people say in tuning circles or whatever is when you run a higher Caster you don't need as much camber which is probably why I like a lower camber setting is because I always run a seven Caster setting right so I'm I'm assuming that if you ran like a five Caster instead

like this would be closer to what I'm running like 15 1017 but this is this is just what I Prefer this is what I always have it at I'm just going to leave it at that I really don't know exactly what C does I just know that when I lower it I don't like how the car feels and uh there's going to be more settings like that guys where um you know what I I can make an effective setup for me but I can't always tell you why um now with that being said I'll drive

it a little bit after making those changes with the alignment uh it's Probably not going to feel much different though uh alignment is one of those very fine tuning sort of tuning tabs it's it's not going to totally make or break your tune it can improve it that second gear is so nice right there it's it's not there's no tire spin but it's not so low in the RPM that it's fogging it's very manageable out of there um but yeah the bottom line is the car is still under steering and um that's because of the

Arrow setting and the roll bars got got it so oh wow I'm in the oh wow well that could be a problem right there I was tuning on mediums that's fine um everything I've covered so far is going to be relatively the same with as on softs or mediums guys trust me but I like how softs feel better so yeah we're going to stick with that oh also Let's uh change the we raid so I don't kill my tires okay tuning rowars Now this is one that varies highly amongst different tunes that you're going to

see say you're in a Discord with open source Tunes being posted or whatever you're going to see everybody's roll bars all over the place I'm just going to tell you what I like how to adjust it and uh you guys can go from there so base my base always is 4040 stiff roll bars front and rear always is my base there's just something about it That makes the car feel so good now does it always stay here absolutely not I have GT cars that are 40 and 30 40 and one 38 I have one that's

38 and 15 and I think what happens here for me is I like 4040 so much because I'll tune the rest of it around the roll bars being so stiff if that makes sense but still roll bars can absolutely make or break how your car feels especially on Corner exit um and I think I like stiff rollar so much because it keeps the car more planted on Corner exit it doesn't feel like it wanders as much so to say um but we're going to keep it on 40 40 for now um and the way the

adjustment works on robowars is in very simplified terms just in general higher front more under steer so 40 and 20 uh your car is going to push more it's going to under steer more it's Going to be more stable it's going to be easier to get on the gas but it might not turn as much as you wanted to higher rear say you have 20 and 40 more over steer more rotation it might be harder to get on the gas this also all depends on the car some cars have such natural under steer that you

have to put this setting on or it won't drive correctly some cars have so much natural over steer that you need to do 40 in One or it's just not going to do what you want it to do and then there's a whole bunch of cars that land somewhere in the middle so what I want you to take away from this is higher front more under steer higher rear more over steer and you also have just general stiffness and general softness like on a scale now something like if both your roll bars are really high

your car is Going to generally feel more stiff it may not affect like rotation wise like the way your car under steers or over steers that mostly has to do with a difference in the roll bars but I'm talking in general like how far or up or down both of these are on the scale is going to affect how stiff or soft your car feels overall so I find 4040 cars sometimes can have trouble over bumps or curbs or whatever Because they're so stiff um but also rarely an issue for me really if I'm being

honest I'd rather if I want my car to have a neutral rollar setup I'd rather have 4040 than one in one just feels better to me that's the bottom line just for me personally so we're going to start with 4040 on the base here I believe the stock setting was like 22 or 22 and 16 I might be wrong but it was a slightly under steer buy Setup I believe so let's see how this feels really liking the gear ratios I'm going to have to see how six gear fields on a longer track the car

already feels a little bit better it feels less Sway and I think that's because of the overall stiffness of roll bars and it feels less under steer because the front is no longer higher than the rear which to me is a win now here's the kicker though if we change other things in the tune that can Completely throw off how we view our rars so again just because we put this as our base now doesn't mean we're not going to change it later so Springs now the way I I like to look at these two

settings in relation to each other is roll bars are something that I feel more so in late mid corner to corner exit more so that that they affect your car at all parts of the turn but I That's where I feel them those adjustments the most Springs same thing they can affect your car in all parts of the corner they do but I feel them more so in corner entry to like early midc Corner sort of deal can you still use Springs to tune for Corner exit yes but that that is where I mostly feel

them so basically if I want my car well okay let first let's start with just overall softness or stiffness if your car right now they're Pretty soft let's say you move your Springs way up here like 900 on both which is pretty stiff your car is going to be more responsive it's going yeah basically just more responsive overall um it's going to turn in a little bit quicker but it's going to be more unstable it's going to struggle over curbs more it's going to want a trampoline off the curbs um one instance where stiffer Overall

Springs can be useful is when you're dealing with uh portions of tracks with really high compressions like say Spa after turn one you're coming up to a Rouge Radion you hit that really sharp compression before you turn in going up the hill if your spring rates are too soft your car will basically bottom out and you'll lose grip so having high spring rates on Spa can really help you get o through a Rouge and Radion Better because that you're not bottoming out the spring so that's one way where stiff Springs can really help you out

um overall though I like to have more of a medium soft spring rate I think it transfers the most well across all the tracks you'll encounter in Hoppers basically it's like the most balanced like stiffness setting I've I've come across so somewhere in like the 450 to 600 range on most cars seem and and these Springs honestly Like stiffness wise are very close to what I would just run anyways um in GT I will say most of the time I run a slightly higher from front spring um we'll get more into why this is in

a little bit but basically when you have a higher front spring your car is going to be more stable on Turnin and like entering the turn it's not going to feel like it wants to like instantly let go it's it's going to allow you to settle into the Corner easier it might not rotate as much as something that's stiffer in the rear um so but when it comes to GT I like having that initial stability that allows me to get settled into the corner and then you know I can figure it out from there but

this also depends on the weight distribution of your car the overall like natural characteristics of your car there's a lot that goes into it so say You have a car that's naturally super under steer you might want to hire rear spring because if your car is just not diving into the corner like you cannot get the car turned into the corner you might want to do this it's totally possible now the do the M6 that kind of car I doubt it it's front engine rear wheel drive um the arrow setup that we run is going

to result in probably uh natural over steer um so that's kind of where I'm Going to keep it is a stiffer front spring how much stiffer well that's all relative we can start with a base of course and and just take a guess at it but we'll have to change it from there I usually like to work in increments of like 25 um so in this case I'm just going to do a 50 stiffer in the front I'm going to keep it there ride height almost always keep it lowest however there are cases where This

can change um raising front ride height can help stabilize your car on Corner entry it's kind of like a shortcut to corner like kind of if you don't want to use toe because toe can increase tire wear if you don't want to use toe to slow down your Turnin you can just up the ride height a little bit and it will slow down the Turnin on your car obviously this will affect your midc corner speed it'll make you a little bit slower in sweepers but it can make the Car a lot easier to drive just

bumping up the front ride height a little bit can go a long way on like how your car turns into sweepers like say you're on a track like magello and you cannot stop sliding every time you enter a corner you just raise your front ride height a little bit I'm sure it will help you'll notice it so that's something I use a lot rear ride height I almost never raise the only time I'll raise rear ride height is in conjunction with front Let's say I'm having trouble over a certain track oh like I don't know

Road Atlanta you know the curbs are just absolute death traps every time you run over them you bot them out you're doing your car is doing silly stuff you can raise the ride height and it will take the curbs easier will it be you know not as ideal on other tracks yeah but if you're really having trouble at a certain spot and you're feeling like you can't take bumps or curbs and you know You might want to look at raising your overall ride height uh raising the rear will induce more over steer it's not often

I do it in this way I think there are other ways to tune in over steer that are more effective I have done it before on very Niche cars not in GT uh usually leave that slammed in GT so again we're going to go back and see how our spring adjustment has changed I really like probably this is is only going to make the car feel more under Steery it was neutral and I moved it to a stiffer front so I only I know I've been saying that the car has been under steering so you

would think Griffin why didn't you change your Springs to be stiffer in the rear well it's because I have an idea of how this tune is going to end up and this is my best educated guess where the Springs are going to end up because we're going to take all the down Force off the rear of this car and it's Going to drastically change how it drives it's going to make it more over steery so I'm kind of preparing my Springs in advance uh for that downforce change now here is the mystery tab you thought

I was clueless about Caster well damping welcome um tell you what I do with damping is bumps to three and four or three three to four somewhere between there three to four sometimes higher sometimes Lower and rebound to um 11 to 12ish and I pray not really it's it's more of like this is an experience thing for me um do I ever find tune damping almost never because I don't know what it does um it it overall affects your car's performance over curbs it can overall affect your car's behavior on turn in and Corner exit

but the thing is with damping in this game is I really do not feel much of what it Does even in large adjustments I think personally the overall softness or stiffness of these settings is more important than the balance of the settings now doesn't make a difference I'm sure is there someone who could probably explain it better than me absolutely this is almost always where I end up um I think you know with tuning settings in General a good philosophy to have is you know stiffer rear more over steer stiffer front more under steer so

you can absolutely use that like mindset when you approach damping if you really want to try and fine-tune it I I think it works like that to but um I'm just going to keep them neutral for now I'm just going to pick three 35 and 113 I and I'm only telling you guys this because this is what I always do I run the times I run I I have the pace that I Have with going into damping with this mindset so I'm not like trying to you know deceive anybody like it this is this is

what I do and this is what a lot of people I know do because really when it comes down to it suspension geometry is a lot more noticeable than this in my opinion in a lot of people's opinion um how did I arrive at 03 to 4 and 11 to 12 through experience over like 10 years of playing this game it Seems like in every Forza the uh values are pretty similar you want a low bump and a high rebound that's just how the uh car reacts the best over the bumps and feels the most

stable so that is obviously there are exceptions in like super high downforce prototypes F1 all that crap you you might even see these settings reversed but in in these kinds of cars this is pretty standard stuff so I'm not even going to waste your time test driving on that um now Here's an interesting one this is a new tuning tab in this game um something that a lot of people kind of were very confused about when the game came out but I think people are starting to figure it out now suspension geometry the roll Center

Height offset it's kind of a confusing name and it's really easy to overthink this setting the easiest way to think about roll Center Height offset is secondary rollar Tuning that's that's literally it I can I can set my roll bars to 4040 and then adjust my rotation needs say I want my car to rotate a little bit more I can just adjust it through roll Center Height offset and uh yeah that's pretty much much it say I want and I I I will say the overall stiffness of this I usually run it pretty high uh

that's just what feels best to me uh low the car Uh when you have a really low roll Center Height offset it it feels like it has a lot of body roll and the uh the uh sort of range of motion is too high in your suspension that's what it feels like to me so I generally run it pretty stiff um and I'll start at 98 98 and I'll just go from there if I want more over steer do something like that just lower it if I want more under steer if the car is unbearably

over steer and I can't Stop sliding just do that like you know this is something to play around with stiffer front more more under steer stiffer rear more over steer again the same theme is popping up with a lot of these settings so I'll start at 9898 I'm sure we'll change it now anti- geometry percent you have anti-dive and anti-squat this actually when you think about it it's pretty Self-explanatory anti-dive is mostly breaking and Corner entry so think about when you hit the brakes the car wants to dive down in the front if you up

anti-dive it's resisting that downward front movement when you break so if you want want your car to stay more flat while you're breaking you would increase this now the effect of this is more St No more stability under breaking if you find that the car is gets very light or it's inconsistent on Corner entry while breaking it may be a good idea for you to raise this because it's going to keep more weight on the rear tires because the front isn't dipping as much now think about it the opposite way if you decrease your anti-dive

all the way to like 50 which I don't think you would ever do in most cases um when you hit the brakes your car is going to do a Freaking nose stand it's uh not not really but it's it's it's going to dip very far very quickly towards the front and what that's going to do is it's going to take the rear it's going to take weight off the rear tires quickly and it's going to make it feel very unstable when you're entering a corner on the breaks so this is your one of your adjustments

when it comes to Corner Entry while breaking one of your adjustments and it often is a very effective one um in GT I usually run it positive like I said these cars are I like to have these cars more stable on Corner entry so I'll run something oh I don't know positive 25 to positive 50 we'll start at positive 30 like we're just throwing numbers out there anti squat think of what I just told you about the front but for the rear this is mostly a Corner exit in rear wheel drive so obviously exiting a

corner the weight is going to want to shift to the rear and your anti- squat is going to affect like how far and how quickly that weight is shifted to the rear so if you have a very low anti squat it's it means there's going to be very low resistance to the car Shifting the weight to the back it means the car is going to be Very stable on throttle especially like at low speed or while turning you're going to put all that weight on the rear you're going to take the weight off the front

tires which is going to induce under steer which may not always be a bad thing this could be a very useful tool to like get better Corner exit um so oftentimes in GT I'll run this all the way down to 50 that's not uncommon for me at all um if you Want your car to rotate more on throttle or just not under steer as much on throttle just raise it um I usually keep it negative you can put a positive if you want this is all feel thing but I'm just telling you what it does

so that you can adjust this to your yourself to your liking I am going to set it A50 that's what I have most of my cars at in GT so I'm going to apply that and see How it feels now again it might feel more under after these changes because I haven't changed my arrow yet that's going to be next the car feels pretty good though already I'm kind of worried about it it's it's probably going to over steer as soon as I take the rear down Force off yeah feels pretty good okay so back

to the tuning so we just did suso that's short I guess for suspension Geometry Arrow so this is one of my one of my ground rules for GT always and I mean well always is a strong word 99% of the time it's going to be this and then this no matter what the numbers are here this is GT metat tuning in Forza Motorsport it is Max front M rear that is the uh the wave right now and probably forever uh in this game it's how it was on Forza 7 that's how it is On this

game it's just for some reason this basically gives you the most aggressive turning setup in your arrow that you can get and you can tune the rest of this to have high enough mechanical grip and stability that this works you can tune the rest of this so that your car is still stable in midc corner even though it has Max front and no rear down Force what that allows is really good straight line speed and Handling all at the same time just because you can do this without losing the rear of your car so in

simplified terms what Arrow does is more down Force means more force is pushing down on that portion of your car so front down Force more air pushing down on the front of your car putting more weight on your front tires giving you more front grip more front grip is in general over steer so more front down force is going to be tuning more towards Over steer rear down Force say you have a bunch of rear down Force pushing down on that rear wing putting all that weight down on your rear tires that's going to give

you more rear and stability but but it's going to cause under steer so more your downforce more under steer now let's say you go Min front down Force that's going to be more under steer because you're taking weight off of the front tires and Men rear down force is going to be more over steer Because you're taking weight off of the rear tires so what we have here is maximum over steer in both directions we have the most weight possible on the front tires and the least weight possible on the rear tires and in most

cars in this game this would be recipe for 180 spins and death but in GT this is this is the way I I don't know why but that is how the physics work in this game this is this is the way to go so this is this is My GT ground rule I am almost never going to change it from this position the only time I could see this changing is say you're on lemon's you can do this just for pure speed because aside from corner balance under steer and over steer down Force also has

an overall effect on your speed so less downforce your car is more slippery more speed more downforce car is producing more drag it Corners better but it has uh less top speed so if you're on the Mods or Daytona or a track that Demands a lot of speed you can take down your front arrow and probably adjust the rest of your tune to over steer a little bit more and and and you can be good but that's the only time I think I'd ever change that and usually I just keep it here anyway so now

I'm really curious to see how the car drives since that's such a drastic change from the arrow on a stock tomb was just straight up in the middle on Both front and rear so we'll see how it changes now if I could skip lap I would cuz we're not going to really see too much of how it changes until we get to the first section of suzuk s's we might feel it here in spoon yeah the car is is pointing the front end more it's over steering more but it's still stable because of the way

I've set the rest of my tune it feels good through spoon Actually it feels very [Music] good wow yeah that actually feels really nice uh so far through 130r a little early on the brakes as and as you can see I oh I'm too busy talking almost drove off the track but Max front mid rear Arrow the the car is still holding very stable that's why it's so powerful in GT you're getting all that top speed from no rear down Force but you're getting all the Grip from all the front down Force it really is

broken this feels great actually I'm really happy with how this feels right now see I can feel it slipping a little bit more but it's good though the rotation is good that's what's letting me get on the throttle earlier because my front end is pointing earlier like oh my gosh it's just turning so much more on cut in the track um yeah so as you can see Arrow Very powerful tool pretty much everybody is going to be rocking that Arrow setup that knows what they're doing in GT I'll say that and most of your you

know highly rated downloaded Tunes are going to have this okay now breaking this is a this is definitely an important one and I've been kind of not liking how the brakes have been feeling since I've started doing this first off breaking balance this is Going to determine like how much of the braking force is applied to the front or the rear of the car if you have more Force being applied to the front brakes you're going when you hit the brakes and you try to turn you're going to feel more under steer but it's going

to be more stable so let's say you have a car that when you hit the brakes and you try to turn into a corner it just slides and the you can't it it feels very unstable a and it's very frustrating I I hate When cars feel like that you can back this out to the front it's not very often I do that but it's it's not unheard of at all I there's there's a few cars I do this with uh front brake buys if they're very unstable under breaking and I'll do this a lot in

mid- engine Cars part in particular I'm mid-engine cars aren't very friendly to me especially on the brakes I'll do this sometimes it it make me it make me feel better um now in front engine cars and Most GT cars in general I'm going to do rear bias this is going to allow the car to rotate more on the brakes um you're going to have a little bit of like a slip angle like a little bit of rotation on the brakes as you enter the corner especially Trail braking um which is a whole another concept that

could be covered in another video but you know as you're approaching a slower corner and you're you know still on the brakes that rear bias is Going to help point the nose um quicker and more than and if you had a front bias um now how much each way should you go is the main question here um a good base just start at like 47 it's a it's a small adjustment but um it's enough to notice from 50 for sure and if you want more rotation if your car is still under steering on the brakes

you can you know go down to like 44 or I have I have in the past sometimes gone below 40 it's kind of Rare 44 is like a pretty aggressive setting but I use it fairly often 47 is like my base same with like going front you only want to move it like a few perent at a time it'll go a long way you'll notice it um breaking force Now default is 100% you this is a largely a preferencing but I think there's also some factor of like I don't like when people say this is

only a preference because I think it Actually matters um with what kind of car you're in and what kind of track you're driving on say you're on a track that is largely momentum base it's all about holding speed long Corners you're not hitting the brakes very often and when you do you're light on the brakes think Maple Valley uh think hakone think anything with like really like Grand Oak long sleeping sweeping Corners like that some people they only run 200% on their Tunes cuz they're like oh it's all Preference that's what my finger is used

to well when you're on a track like that where you're trying to hold speed and you have 200% pressure when you try to hit the brakes lightly it's 200% is going to hit the brakes very hard with very minimal pressing on the brake Trigger or pedal whatever if you're on a wheel so what what pressure does basically is if you raise it it's going to make the brakes more sensitive to your input so me Pressing the brake at 50% at this pressure is going to stop my car like somewhere in the middle like moderately me

pressing the brakes 50% on this pressure I'm going to feel like I'm slamming on the brakes and I'm about to lock up that's the difference so you know if you're tuning a car for a specific purpose like holding a lot of corner speed you might not you might not want to go up super high and aggressive on Your pressure because you might bleed off too much speed accidentally you might um shift the front suspension too quickly and th throw off the balance of the car into a fast corner and scrub speed like there's there's like

actual thought that needs to go into the pressure rather than oh I like this pressure on my it feels good on my finger or my foot that's what I'm used to so again now I'm tuning for GT Hoppers Here so you got to think like I'm trying to tune for across like a wide range of tracks like what is the most versatile setting that I can come up with here yeah like 140 to 150 is usually what I end up with I I'll go with like 145 sure um it's aggressive enough that if I need

to break in a straight line or like break to a hair pin like break fast it it you know it provides that response but it's also not like 200% where like I can't modulate the brakes very well if I Need to be light on the brakes so it's that nice in between this is what I like definitely feel free to play around with your pressure uh according to what according to what you like it is it is largely a preference but there is some thought that needs to go into it too when you know when

you're thinking about what kind of car you're driving the m6 is an total allaround car I'll drive it anywhere so yeah somewhere in the middle will work Prettyy well for me in this case so I just want to see what the brakes feel like especially going in this hairpin actually yeah that already feels better I stopped way faster than I did before I might shorten second gear a little bit a little bit man yeah this feels very nice which makes sense because the only adjustment we have left is a diff and and this is one

of those cases where I don't even Know if I'm going to go back and adjust much in my tune after it's all said and done and on once you get used to this proc process and like knowing what all the tabs do and knowing your regular like number ranges this process can be like 2 minutes I can crank out a tune in like 2 minutes and it usually feels pretty good with minimal adjustment just because of repetition and just knowing what I'm looking for so yeah it feels good I like the Brakes and the last

uh setting we have to look at here is the differential um I think a lot of people get confused with this this one and there is a lot to it I'm I'm trying to dumb down a lot of this um not only you know for my audience it's not that I think you're all dumb but um it makes for a better video and easier to digest content but you know I'm not I'm no genius I don't know like I just I just know like what each like moving it up And down does to my car

and what I like and uh that's how I'm going to explain it so you have on a two wheel drive differential so if your car is front-wheel drive or rear wheel drive you will have one acceleration setting and one deceleration setting your X in in simp very simple terms when it comes to rear wheel drive I'm speaking rear wheel drive specific here because that's like almost all the GT Cars your acceleration is going to affect your car on throttle so a higher acceleration your car is going to have more on throttle over steer so when

you get on the gas the car is going to want to rotate or slide more um which which can be useful but it you know also can be detrimental so a lower acceleration will make it so that your rear tires are less proning less prone to spinning up Uh less overall over steer more stability on the gas and Corner exit now you don't want it too low because then you get on throttle under steer and you're not maximizing your corner exits because your differential is too low so you it's it's good to play with this

this is this is a tune setting that I'll play with a lot actually is is your uh differential so I'd say 100 is very high I'll run 100 in some cars but not in GT I don't know Of a GT car that I have at 100 to be honest um I have a lot of cars that are around like 40 to 60 in the uh XL range um just just trying to maximize that rear grip it's it's a very safe setting 40 to 60 uh get high you getting higher than that and you're starting to

spin especially with really low re down Force so I think what was stock like 6 62 I'll start at the thing is though 62 like Didn't feel bad at all so it's hard to like justify a change here but just just for the sake of this video I'm just going to change it to like 30 and just to see how it feels and then your deceleration this is going affect your off throttle Behavior so say you enter a corner or you're entering a corner and you want more uh over steer you would lower your deceleration

lower deceleration higher amounts of Over steer now if your car is sliding too much mid corner you need to stabilize it think Porsches mid- engine cars Ferraris um things like that things that can be very unstable on Corner entry things that want to kill you when you turn in raise this up it will help I'm telling you uh between this and the other tuning tools I've given you with your front spring rate your brake bias um Roll center all all this in conjunction can You know you'll see it Compound on top of each other if

you really need to make some adjustments um the m6 seems to be like a very standard car I'm not going to have to adjust much at all on this tune to get it like how I want it if I was tuning like a Porsche I would be going back and forth on this like raising my raising and lower my Dell changing my brakes changing my roll centers changing you know my Springs uh maybe adding some front ride height uh Maybe lowering the rear roll bar just anything to get it more like comfortable for me to

drive while also remaining fast and not feeling like a brick that that that's the whole point of this process but um front engine rear wheel drive GT car you usually run pretty low low Dell because they're they're usually very stable on Corner entry so you're not going to want you're not going to want it up here your car is going to feel Like a break when you turn into the corner it's not going to feel good you're going to want it lower like 0 to 10 I'll start at five and we'll go from there little

bit over steer a little bit over steer not that it's bad but it's there see the thing is on throttle it feels like really comfortable almost too comfortable like I can push it more so that's giving me a sign that I want to raise my Acceleration on my differential because I'm slamming the throttle and the car feels like it has more to give like it's not slipping at all but on the on the contrary on my corner entry I'm noticing a bit of a slide since I lowered my deceleration so I may want to you

know kick that up a little bit because I'm starting to feel a little bit loose on Corner entry where I wasn't Before so I'm going to go back actually and adjust this I'm going to raise my acceleration up to 50 and I'm going to raise my deceleration back up to like 13 slightly lower than where it was before but definitely higher than five and um I guess the first place we'll feel this change significantly is in the spoon curve coming up here at the end of the straight yeah it feels better now it almost feels

Too stable off throttle but I I don't want to make any rash like changes yet I'm going to see how it feels in the first section of the track cuz that's where I was feeling the over steer before I just want to see how it Compares in the same Corners uh cuz you know that makes the most sense to compare it directly on the same corners or else you know you might be getting false data I guess you could Say so let's make our way down the FR stretch back into the first section of the

[Music] track see how it feels that was purely because I hit the curb that over steer I'm not going to attest that to the tune o feels a little better that feels really nice actually yeah that feels Nice this car is man this car is really nice to drive actually oo I almost yeah I kind of twitched there a little bit coming out the corner anyways guys I really hope this has been helpful just look I know I'm not a tuning master and I'm sorry I couldn't explain some things better than I did but um

I think a lot of people are curious Like someone on a top team who has good Pace like I think a lot of people put a lot of stock into car setup they'll see you know someone do a time and they' be like oh man like that tune must be so good or oh hey man what's your tune or this and that yeah man the tune is a factor for sure but to be honest guys I can crank how of Tune like this in two minutes and at the end of the day 90% of what

you're looking for is going to come down to your drive but uh I want to eliminate any doubt that there's some like crazy Secrets when it comes to tuning you know there's obviously some like very broken meta things like full front no rear down fors although I think that's pretty well known at this point and you know maybe some other tuning settings like really Hot stiff Rob bars or whatever but yeah that that's about it this ended up being a pretty long video but it was fun to make and I got a good M16 out

of it I really like this thing I mean this is driving phenomenally I can just kind of make it go wherever I want it to go um I was thinking about making a video actually on like General driving tips and like how to approach Corners um if you made it this far and you like that idea let me know I think I can help a lot of people out and I think just I think I have a good way to explain like what I'm thinking as I'm driving and like why I do certain things in

certain corners and like what to think about when you're approaching a corner I think that could be helpful to some people so yeah let me know if you're interested in That and uh yeah thanks for watching Everybody uh you enjoyed it and I'll see you in the next one