Échappées belles - Vietnam, le voyage d'une vie

... -Hello everyone. Nice to see you again. This week, I have the pleasure of taking you to Vietnam and showing you the north of the country. For the moment, Benoît, if that suits you, we will go to Hoi An to start the trip. -Yes, we cross the rice fields and we are there. ... In the rice fields, there is something really cool, which is that during the entire fallow period, in winter, there are Flocks of ducks. Ducks eat pests, including snail eggs. In addition, they defecate in the rice fields so it provides fertilizer. No need

for chemicals, we are completely organic. It's a very good rice. -When you are in Hoi An, you are quickly in the countryside. -President Ho Chi Minh summed it up in a famous aphorism: “Let us never forget that the cities are surrounded by the countryside.” ... -That's it, we're there. -That's it, it's Hoi An. -When you arrived here, did you immediately invest in a local vehicle? -Yes. In addition, I really wanted this legendary motorcycle in Vietnam, a motorcycle that everyone rode on. I named her Jacqueline. We covered a lot of miles together. -All right. -There you

go, my lord. -THANKS. I already liked this city, the first time I came 10 years ago. It's strange to meet you again because we were journalists together maybe 25 years ago. It doesn't make us any younger. -No. At the same time, we haven't moved much. -Speak for yourself, perhaps. Tell me about your journey in Vietnam. How long have you been here? -15 years ago, I came to train as a journalist on Vietnamese television. In 2020, covid arrived and I remained locked up in Vietnam. -You couldn't come out? -Impossible. I no longer had a job, nothing.

So, I had to improvise. I went on a trip with my motorbike to try to discover lots of spices, until I encountered nuoc-mâm, this fish sauce which fascinated me straight away. I don't know why, this crazy idea popped into my head. I told myself that this is what I wanted to do. -It even fermented! -I told myself I was going to make my own, create my recipe. -Today, this sauce exists. I can't wait to taste it. I want to see what Vietnam has become, how it was projected. I want to see if this country has

kept its authenticity, its traditions, its soul. -It remained really authentic, you'll see. It is nicknamed the little tiger of Asia. He's getting big and you're not at the end of your surprises. -I'm counting on you to help me understand. Welcome to Vietnam in “Beautiful Escapes”. ... -Get ready for an exceptional escape... -The first time I sailed here, I cried with aesthetic emotion. -In a spectacular and generous country. -The decor is extraordinary and we do not regret our visit. This landscape is unique in the world, I think. -Jérôme, I'm taking you to the Perfume Pagoda. For

the Vietnamese, it is a sacred place. -There's everything, it's quite confusing. -With Jérôme Pitorin... -HOLD THE WAVE AND HOLD THE WIND, RISE HIGH! Horn. -It's very exciting to see the train pass so closely. -Very very close. -Each encounter tells a story... -There, I collect clams. I look for them with this rake. -I like living like this, on the raft, because the air is pure here. Life is good and we are free, on a raft. I wouldn't want to live anywhere else for anything in the world. -With its share of surprises. -It's a special coffee. It's

an egg coffee. -With an egg yolk? -Yes. -Vietnam, the trip of a lifetime. -May Kim, you are the queen of plants. -It's especially for men. This medicine is called “100% fit, 2 happy people”. Laughs. They all speak in unison. ... -You wanted to visit Hoi An so I'm going to show you around my world. -It’s a little marvel, this bridge. -Above all, it has a great symbolic value, this Japanese bridge. -There is a lot of history in this city. It is classified by Unesco, I believe. -Yes. It dates from the 17th century and was built

to connect Chinatown and Japantown. It is truly a symbol of alliance of communities and all the communities mixed in Hoi An have given this town a truly special place with a special aesthetic. ... There, we are in the heart of the old town of Hoi An which has opened up even more to tourism. -Oh yes. At the same time, it's so pretty. -In the old town, there is an architecture extremely variegated with Chinese influences, Which we find quite a bit on the roofs, their shape, the tiles... That is typical of the Chinese influence. It's even

completely Chinese, in terms of architecture. -This is the main influence. They stayed here for a millennium? -Yes. All of northern and central Vietnam was under Chinese rule for a very long time. Then the Japanese arrived. They put their little touch to the right and to the left. Then the French spent a hundred years here. This is typically French architecture. It blends in completely with the rest. -Benoît, since you moved to Hoi An, what do you like? The sweetness of life? -Yes, life is extremely sweet. I go swimming every morning before going to work. It's definitely

worth all the gold in the world. We arrive at the market from the fish market side. We are on the river, boats arriving from the sea can get there, unload the fish. -Is this whole part fish? -Yes, fish, shrimp... And that... Laughs. ... -The atmosphere is exceptional. -It's crazy. Everything is incredibly fresh. It's sustainable fishing, fish caught by line. That, for me, is super important. It's the start of the anchovy fishing season. This is what we make nuoc-mâm sauce with. -It is the country's emblematic sauce. -Yes. It comes to us from the Romans. It was

garum. Except the Romans made it With fish scraps and salt. Here, we use the whole anchovy. Preparing nuoc-mâm is very simple: 3 kg of anchovies, 1 kg of salt, mix everything and leave to ferment for a little over a year. This is what gives this precious liquid, which is used to season everything. It brings salt, flavor, binder. -When you arrived, discovered this sauce and said to yourself: "I'm going to stay in this country, create my own sauce that I'm going to revisit", it's still tackling Vietnamese gastronomic heritage. -I didn't tackle it. It was truly a

declaration of love. It grew more and more. I become this slightly crazy Frenchman who decided to make nuoc-mâm in the land of nuoc-mâm. -You don't regret your choice, your anchovy? -No. It's the king's anchovy. -That works. -This is my place. Come on, let me show you. That's all my little laboratory. This is the smoked fish sauce that I make. It’s a nuoc-mâm sauce base. -Chuben. -It's a traditional sauce that I then infuse With spices for 6 to 8 months. -THANKS. Oh, the smoke... It's good! The nuoc-mâm sauce, I like it but with the little smoky

side, well done! Did you develop the recipe? -Yes. It's infused with all sorts of things. There is pepper, chili peppers. -It's very, very good. I'll get some for you before I leave. -I'm counting on it. I'll show you how to use it. ... -Here we arrived at the river. What is this river called? -Thu Good. -It's all good! It's beautiful too. We're going to take a little souvenir photo. Shutter. This is a great series! ... Here we are! These famous lanterns. Is it a Chinese tradition that came with trade? -Exactly. Basically, we put lanterns on

the water, it was a good luck charm, it brought prosperity. -Shall we put down our little candles? -People buy Small candles, place them, make a wish. There are lots of candles on the river. -It's beautiful. -It's very romantic. What is happening to us? -That's what I was going to say. They laugh. Horns and urban traffic. -In Vietnam, eating out is an institution. From morning to evening, cuisine invades the sidewalks. ... At dawn, Maï prepares vermicelli soup with pig's trotters, an emblematic dish From the north of the country. -The secret of this soup is not the

vermicelli but the broth. We've been making it from pork bones since yesterday afternoon. The broth should be clear with very little fat. The people here are gourmets. If it's not good, they don't come. -After years of cooking for their loved ones, these 2 friends opened their shop 5 years ago. Hanoi, the capital, has thousands of street canteens like this one, often run by women. -Shopping, cooking, in general, is women's business. This is why in Vietnam, it is often women who run the shops and restaurants. Even when you see a man in the store, he only

helps out. Most customers are regulars. I also have people passing through, but what pleases me the most is telling myself that after that, they will come back. -Regardless of their social class, many Vietnamese are used to having breakfast outside rather than at home. -When you go out, the first thing you do is choose a place to have breakfast. Besides, it's not expensive to eat out in Hanoi. In general, all these small restaurants are run by cooks who cook food for their families before selling to others. They have their own recipes that big restaurants don't have.

And we know the right addresses. No need to go to fancy restaurants. -For 2 years, Trang has been introducing all these street recipes to foreign visitors. -Sit here, please. This is our 1st stop. We start with the pho. -Pho is the most famous dish in Vietnamese cuisine. This rice noodle soup, beef and aromatic herbs can be enjoyed at any time. -It's very good. It tastes much better than what we are used to in the Netherlands. They put more aromatic herbs. -For 3 hours, Trang introduces tourists to Vietnamese flavors, the sweetest... -Here is the Vietnamese donut.

There are 2 kinds, with sugar or with honey. -To the most unexpected. -In Vietnam, we have a lot of unusual foods like cat and dog and we eat a lot of offal like liver, heart, kidney. We also eat brains, eyes, ears, tongue, nose, paws... But that is not the case here. -In these little donuts there are bloodworms. -Like these. They live in the bottom of brackish waters. -It's not bad but I've never eaten anything like this before. -In Vietnam, even when eating in the street, There are a few rules to respect. -You should not stick

the chopsticks in the bowl and leave them like that. You should never do this because it reminds the Vietnamese of their death. It's like burning incense sticks at a funeral. I sometimes see people who use their sticks and bowl to play, like that, like a drum set. You should not do this because the Vietnamese think that you are accidentally inviting wandering spirits into their home and that this will bring them bad luck. -Vietnamese cuisine owes its richness to the diversity Of fresh products that can be found in the country. Chef Hang regularly goes to the

market to stock up on spices and aromatic herbs. -What I have in my hand, the ginger, the spices, these are basic aromatic ingredients of Vietnamese cuisine. In our gastronomy, the balance between hot and cold is very important. Ginger and lemongrass are warming because we have a cold climate in the North. -Hang supervises the kitchens of 2 gourmet restaurants In Hanoi, including this one, selected in the first 100% Vietnamese “Michelin Guide” published in 2023. Here, she revisits caramel fish, a popular recipe. -In a restaurant of this standing, we use a noble fish and we serve it

without the bones. Elsewhere it would be served with the bones. We put less salt in this dish than is usually done but we keep the same spices. Here, we even add a little more lemongrass, chili pepper, ginger, galangal and the dish will be a little more fragrant. Since I started in this profession, 21 or 22 years ago, I have always made Vietnamese cuisine. I see that the dishes are becoming more and more known and appreciated by international customers because we have a wide variety of products and a wide choice of flavors. -Long in the shadow

of Chinese, Japanese or Thai cuisines, Vietnamese cuisine is increasingly asserting itself on the world gastronomic scene. ... -Oh dear, where are you taking me? -It's a cao dai temple. The number one religion here is Buddhism. Then there is Christianity and there is a very recent religion, dating from the 1920s, called Caodaism. It is a mixture not only of religions but also of philosophies. -It's written in French too. It looks like an academic costume. -It's one. It's Victor Hugo's. -But no? -He is also one of the prophets of Caodaism. Religious song. ... The funny thing is

that Jesus Has Asian features. It's the 2nd from the bottom. There is Buddha, Confucius, Mohammed. I think it's Lao-tzu... -Yes. ... It's beautiful, it's a real postcard. Barking. He does his job. ... -She is the queen of pepper. She has been growing pepper for a very long time, as you can see. -How did you manage to communicate when you arrived here? -It was very complicated. That's why I met Tang. -Delighted. -It helped me a lot to communicate because this lady is an encyclopedia of pepper. She knows all her plants, all her trees. -For the moment,

the pepper is very young. You still have to wait another month or two for it to be ripe. -THANKS. -At that moment, there will be the seed in it and it will sting more. -There, if I taste a grain... -You can taste it, you'll see, it hasn't yet taken on all its potency but you should be more or less satisfied with the flavor. -There, we begin to be on a little more than the material. Oh yeah... I'm satisfied, yes! -That's piperine. This is the active ingredient that makes pepper sting. -It makes you laugh. -You make

me laugh. -I am very satisfied... -We are going to pick the pepper. -Awesome. -You can pick this. -Here, we mainly make black pepper. When the green pepper has reached a respectable size and the maturity we want, we pick it, we dry it and we make black pepper. -Moreover, Vietnam is the world's leading producer of black pepper. We're starting to feel pretty good. -Have you had enough? -A priori, I have what I need to do my first fermentation tests, to see how it will react. I'm going to take you now on a very nice junk. We

are going to visit Lan Ha Bay. Do you have your sea legs? -Yes. -So much the better. -Thank you very much and congratulations for this magnificent product. ... It's magical, all the same, this decor. -This is the beginning of Lan Ha Bay, the little sister of Ha Long Bay. -Are these floating villages? -Yes. -People do aquaculture, fishing... -The fishermen, who were more nomadic at the start, came to fish, brought back the product of their fishing. The dogs are barking. As demand increased significantly, they ended up settling there in the 1980s. It's a special life: they

are nomads settled on the water. I'm going to introduce you to Dao, cook on the junk we're going to sleep on this evening. -Great. -This is where he comes to stock up on fish. -Ooh there, there’s a big baby there! Oh yes, we're not sure about anchovies. What varieties of fish do you raise here? -Bass, carp and grouper. -And I ordered a grouper. -It is a fish that is quite rare in France because it is very protected. -It is protected because it has been fished a lot, because it is excellent. -A beautiful grouper. -Wow! Oh

yes, it's a beautiful baby. It's a little spotted. It's beautiful. -It's not very expensive to spot here. Jerome laughs. -Is this a good price? 5kg! -It’s 350,000 dong per kilo. -It's around 12-13 euros per kilo. -It doesn't seem very expensive to me. -Well no, it’s affordable. -We agree. How is life organized here for shopping, school, children? Are they going to the continent? -Yes, the children go to school on the continent in baccalaureate. And we ourselves Take the ferries when we need to return to the continent to go to the market. There are also sellers who

come directly to us by boat. I like living like this on the raft because the air is pure here. Life is good and we are free on a raft. On land, the environment is not as healthy as at sea. I wouldn't want to live anywhere else for anything. -Northern Vietnam is crossed by a large river, the Red River. It originates in China, flows through Hanoi, the capital , and ends in the China Sea. -We are here about 5-6 km from the mouth of the river. We are in an area where we raise seafood and it

is developing well because the water from the river and the water from the sea meet here. It is rich in alluvium. The population is investing in seafood farming , particularly clams, to improve family income. -At the mouth of the Red River, the shellfish farming areas extend endlessly. Duong has a 5 ha park. One of his workers spent the night In this cabin on stilts to monitor and ensure that the water remained clean. -Are there a lot of leaves? -Just a little. There are mainly drifting algae. -Do you clean as you go? -Yes, that's it. -Regularly,

Duong inspects his clams to check their development. -Currently, they are all tiny. But in 3 months, they will be the size of a fingernail. I will resell them to breeders who will take over until they are sold on the market. Still 10 months before we can eat them. For now, they are just seed. -It is at low tide that fishermen can collect shellfish that have reached the right size. -There, I'm collecting clams. In fact, I look for them with this rake. We take them and put them in the bucket. We work for the boss who

will sell them. When we have collected everything, the owners will put back clams. In a few years or next year, they will harvest again. -Shells are one of the main resources For the people who live around the mouth of the Red River. The river and its numerous tributaries irrigate a vast territory, the Red River delta, cradle of Vietnamese crafts. There are hundreds of craft villages there. Bat Tràng, dedicated to ceramics, is the best known. -I think you can find everything you want here. There are vases, Asian-style objects, other more modern things, yes, you can find

absolutely everything. -A little away from the main market, Hoa has its own workshop. He seeks to reproduce The style of ancient ceramics dating from the most prestigious Vietnamese dynasties. -This bowl looks like an inverted conical hat. Inside you see the dragons enthusiastic, happy, chasing each other. This too is an elephant from the Ly era. The elephant is lying down because this Ly era was a period of peace. There are a lot of references to Vietnamese culture. There, these are the so-called statues of the three Abundances. -Hoa and his employees work mainly for a Vietnamese clientele

of collectors Or individuals who order pieces from him. -These 2 young workers are making bas-reliefs. In these bas-reliefs, there are often references to Vietnamese legends and folk tales. For example, there he is modeling the story of the pheasant and the peonies. Once they have finished the modeling, it is necessary to rework and trim to refine the features of each relief. -You have to be rigorous and precise because if, for example, the paste has dried, you can no longer modify it and the vase is good to throw away. -More than 60% of the population of Bat

Tràng Still makes a living from ceramics today. The Red River Delta is also home to one of the most spectacular natural sites in northern Vietnam. Tràng An and its immense limestone peaks in the middle of flooded rice fields. -They say it's a bit like Ha Long Bay but on land. So, we wanted to visit this place because we knew it was going to be nice, the landscapes in the middle of the mountains, very calm, right in the middle of the rice fields. -The decor is extraordinary. We do not regret our visit. This landscape is unique,

I think, in the world. -Classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2014, the site can be discovered along the water. Each family in the region has the right to operate a boat, no more. Thao has been a rower for around fifteen years. Like other boatmen in the sector, his technique is a bit unusual. -In fact, we row with our feet to get tired less. It's easier than with your arms. We've always done it like this here. In the days when we rowed with small bamboo boats, we already rowed with our feet. -To enjoy an

exceptional panorama, many tourists agree to a little effort: climb the 500 steps of Dragon Mountain. -Look at this place, as if hidden in the mist. The fog is wonderful. This view gives me a lot of emotion. It's magical. -From up there, a breathtaking view takes in the entire bay. The wind is blowing. -We're going to raise the sails of the junk. Okay, here we go. Come on, one arm on two. Magnificent. If we are in sync, we are good. Hop. We have to go behind “souquer les artimuses” now. -Is that the Bay of Tonkin? -It

is the Gulf of Tonkin into which the Red River flows which crosses Hanoi. On the atlases, in general, it is called the China Sea but in Vietnam, it is called the East Sea because there are some small disagreements with China, Particularly over certain archipelagos. -Thank you for taking me there. -Please, it really makes me happy. -It makes me happy to discover these landscapes. When we know that Ha Long Bay is classified among the 7 seven wonders of the natural world and that we have its little twin sister... -The first time I sailed here, I cried

with aesthetic emotion. I was out of breath. The weather was a bit foggy like that. You'll see, when we move forward, there are rocky peaks that arrive in the mist, lots of legends come back to you, Stories of piracy... It's very rich in stories, legends... ... -Hello, captain. -How are you? -Do you speak French? -A little bit. -Awesome! What a beautiful boat you have. -The Cat Ba Prince boat was built in 2008. I have been working on it since 2009. It was built according to the model of the old fishing sail boats of Vietnam: traditional

junks. -Were these boats originally made To go long distances, to go far? -Yes, they could go dozens of miles to fish. By playing well with the wind, they could easily sail to Hong Kong. -What fascinates me is that since earlier, your GPS has been turned off, you only have the compass. How do we remember the route? -I started working on boats very young and I know the region very well. Over time, I retained everything in my head. But in my grandparents' time, it was by looking at the stars that we oriented ourselves to navigate. Bird

cry. Hold on... -THE WAVE AND HOLD THE WIND, HOIST HIGH, SANTIANO. 18 KNOTS, 400 TONS, I AM PROUD TO BE A SAILOR THERE. They mix up the words. ... SANTIANO! 18 KNOTS, 400 TONS, I AM PROUD TO BE A SAILOR THERE. -Well done! Applause. -Hey, Dao! -How are you? -Can I help you? -Okay. -What recipe do you have planned? -Tonight I'm serving steamed fish with soy sauce and sweet and sour fish soup. -It's busy here. -Yeah! How are you? -So, how are the chefs? -Very good. We're preparing this grouper. I went with a kind of

sashimi-ceviche with local flavors. And you, what are you preparing for us? -There, I'm in the middle of a fishing session to catch some squid. So, is this where it happens? Show me how you do it. Hop, OK. It's the light that attracts them, right? -This is our bait that emits a light. It's not visible like that, but in the water, it emits a blue light that squid follow to catch it. I have one! -Come on, Hung! Yes! Well done! -Thank you. -Let’s see a little. Wow... Hop there, I was sure of it. I was thinking,

"I'm going to try not to get any ink." Well done! -Thank you. -Will you give it to me? Oh my, oh my! -Well done! -Benoît, come and see. Look at this. -Did you catch something? -Careful, careful, I think you have a boyfriend. Laughs. -Good evening. -Good evening, my captain. How are you? -Captain, here are the provisions. What a table! It's a royal meal there. -Enjoy your food. -ENJOY YOUR FOOD. -Oh grouper... Bravo, Dao. Cooking... -Bravo to the cook. -Really, hats off! Benoît speaks in Vietnamese. What does that mean? -It means “very good”. They repeat. -Me

too, I "nem" Vietnam. Bird cry. ... It's magical, huh. There is almost no noise to disturb meditation. You have little birds from time to time. It's exceptional. -I'm very happy to be here with you. -Me too. -Really, I find it such an improbable, unexpected reunion. -Yes, it's a nice gift. Life offers us beautiful moments, I think. -Yes, as long as we know how to grasp them. I think it's pretty successful there. -Thank you, my comrade. -Thank you for coming this far and come back soon. -Yeah! Tumult of the city. -We call it train street, in

the heart of old Hanoi. Where the train passes several times a day alongside homes and onlookers looking for a thrill. Train whistle. ... -It was a little scary. -It's very exciting to see the train pass so closely. -Very, very close. -Living on the street, Long only has to go down a few steps to go from his home to his workplace. -I prepare my first rows so that the first customers Can choose the best seats. As close as possible to the train, but safely. -3 years ago, Long left his job as a civil servant and transformed

the ground floor of the family home into a café. -Since I got my coffee, my life has changed, obviously. I have more income and more contact with international clients. In the 80s, the neighborhood was very different. There was just a row of dilapidated houses. Since we were allowed to transform these slums into cafes, the street is better maintained, cleaner. -The railway line has crossed this area For over 100 years, but this street became one of the capital's main attractions only a few years ago. It owes its growth to millions of publications on social networks. Now

everyone wants their photo on the rails or as close as possible to the train. This popularity has changed the lives of the inhabitants. Train whistle. -I have lived here since 1972. There wasn't much but since the arrival of tourists, the neighborhood has changed. He is more and more animated, joyful. There are more and more people. -The authorities have already tried to regulate the crowds in the streets. In 2019, they closed it to visitors for fear of security concerns. Some traders are afraid this will happen again. -I don't really understand the policy of the authorities. Cafes

are sometimes allowed, sometimes prohibited. There are even rumors that the state will soon ban tour operators from taking tourists to the district. We don't really know what the future holds for us. -To avoid new restrictions, Cafe owners are mobilizing. -I need to make sure my customers are safe when they come here. We cooperate with the agents stationed a little further away. Horn. Ringing of the passage. Excuse me, it's time for the train. Excuse me. Megaphone siren. Hurry up, hurry up. Move forward. Stand aside. Hurry up, hurry up. Sit down now. -It's funny, huh? Already, the

setup, all that... It's a bit like being in the theater. Whistles. Train whistle. ... -This train crosses Hanoi towards Haiphong on the coast. From the window too, the spectacle is worth a look. I take the train almost every week and each time, I look at the train street, as it is called here, because it is extremely lively. It's always a bit impressive because all the tourists are there, crowded together. They put more and more lights. Today is truly magical. -Controller of this train since 2013, Viêt Tran also appreciates the view with a little added stress.

-Every time we pass on this section of track, in front of these cafes located between Hanoi station and Long Bien station, the drivers and ourselves are very tense, under pressure because the cafe customers are very close to the railway track. This requires drivers to always be very vigilant. They must observe and honk continuously to ensure safety. -To avoid the crowds, some people do not hesitate to get up very early. Brian, a photographer living in Vietnam for 7 years, guides this couple of American tourists. They hope to bring back their photos from the 6 a.m. train.

-This is probably the most difficult photo to take today. We try to arrive earlier to be sure to have the train to ourselves and the neighborhood to be quiet. The story isn't just about the train. What matters is the neighborhood and the people who live there. It's very bright, so adjust your settings. Camera shutter. -It's beautiful! Look at this! This is the result I was hoping for. It's even better. I'm so glad it's raining, it adds a certain mystery and depth to the story. -This photo tour along the rails has existed since 2013. But in

recent years, the guides have adapted their itinerary to keep the experience authentic. -Not many people in the West live along the tracks, so for foreigners, seeing locals making their lives Next to the tracks is truly something special and very rare in the world today. -Brian and his clients finish the walk on the Long Bien Bridge, the oldest bridge in Hanoi. -It is the most famous bridge in Hanoi. It was designed by the French. He resisted the war. After the bombings, they only rebuilt small parts of it, and it is still standing. -100 years later, the

train continues to run there. Photographers can thus immortalize 2 icons of Hanoi in a single shot. ... -Are you okay, Hanh? -Welcome to Hanoi. -THANKS. Why did you meet me here, near this lake? -Because this lake is very special. I will tell you its story and its legend. -A legend? I adore! -This lake is called the Lake of the Restored Sword. When the Ming dynasties invaded and occupied Vietnam in the 15th century, at that time, a fisherman found a very shiny sword. He offered this sword to the leader of the resistance Who was called Lê

Loi. Thanks to this sword, his soldiers were able to fight the aggressors and obtained the independence of the country. -We can say that the Vietnamese have still been under the supervision of many people, the Chinese, the French, the Japanese... They are a people who have always shown resilience. It’s a symbol here, this bridge and this lake. -In 1954, France withdrew from Vietnam but then the Americans arrived and the country was divided into two, North Vietnam and South Vietnam. For more than 20 years, there was a terrible war Between the North and the South. In 1975,

the North liberated the entire country and April 30, 1975, became National Liberation Day. -This bridge is a bit like the reunification of North and South Vietnam. It's a gateway. Finally, this country is one. -Yes, that's it. ... -We are in the streets of Hanoi. -We are in the old district of Hanoi, that of 36 streets and corporations. In the 11th century, King Ly Thai-Thô transferred his capital from Nihn Bihn to Hanoi. The craftsmen therefore grouped together in neighborhoods to form real villages, organized according to trades. Here, medicinal plants are sold. -I see! They are apothecaries.

There are roots, leaves! Ah, there, we are in the hardware corporation. There are the stalls with the screws and everything. The number of scooters is incredible. How many people live in Hanoi? -Approximately 10 million inhabitants. -So 10 million two-wheelers, roughly? -Almost. Let’s honk. Did you grow up in Hanoi? -No, I was born in a province about 100 km north of Hanoi, in a very modest family. My father died when I was 8 years old and my mother had to work very hard to support me and my little sister. -Did you study here? -Yes. In 2006,

I studied at a university. At that time, my mother gave me 40 euros per month for all my expenses. -You must have been very careful about your budget. What is the average salary in Vietnam? -Between 250 and 300 euros per month. -You have developed your activity in tourism with your blog, your website, you now offer tours. What made you welcome others to present your country? -I love Vietnamese culture so I would like to share my love with other tourists. We have arrived! -Are you taking me to a hallway? It's what? The entrance is quite unusual.

-Can you serve us 2 Vietnamese cappuccinos, Please? -It's a cafe. -Yes, special. Taste! -It's good but I couldn't say what it is. What is this cream? -We call it a Vietnamese cappuccino. It's an egg coffee. -With an egg yolk? -Yes. -How was it born? -In 1946, it was difficult for the Vietnamese because it was the Indochina War. Everything was missing. Especially condensed milk. This is how Mr. Giang invented egg coffee by replacing milk with egg yolk. -It's amazing, the taste. You don't smell much egg. It's really nice. That's ambitious. Wow... Well done! Here, the moped

replaces the truck. It's incredible... Parties, birthdays... -Or events. -These are the outfits for children, for dressing up? -It's for the deceased. For example, on the anniversary of someone's death, you burn on that day to send it to them. -The deceased will have a watch, cigars or a credit card? -Yes. -This cardboard car, for example, are we sending it to the afterlife? -It is a very widespread tradition in almost all Vietnamese families. -I love discovering this neighborhood, Phô Cô. It's incredible. Thank you for this discovery. -Please. -Dragon dances, buffaloes in the rice fields or even an

incredible fishing trip. Water puppet shows depict the lives of farmers in the Red River Delta as well as customs and legends rooted In Vietnamese culture. -Older people who already know this art and who understand its cultural value continue to love it, and consider it a national pride. It’s a truly typical art that can only be found in Vietnam. We also bring a modern breath into our rooms. This is why spectators not only come with enthusiasm, but also really appreciate this art. -In this theater in Hanoi, the artists perform 3 performances per day, mainly for tourists.

-We are from Bombay, India. I liked the show. It was fun, different and we learned a lot about Vietnamese culture. It was refreshing to see. -This is the first time we have come here to this land, Vietnam. It was very good. -This art was invented in the 11th century by peasants who worked in the rice fields. Today, certain villages, like that of Bên, remain closely linked to this traditional culture. -In the past, there were 14 or 15 troops. Today, there are still around ten troupes performing. Many have disappeared due to economic constraints. Our colleagues have

given up. But our troupe from the village of Rach is holding on because we master both the production and the show. It keeps us going until today. Hello, uncle! Can you open the door, please? -In the village temple, dozens of puppets have been preserved for several generations. -Here is an old statue from the time of the first craftsmen. It was during the feudal period. He is a notable of the court, a Mandarin. It goes back several centuries. In my opinion, saving the ancient puppets Left by our ancestors is preserving an invaluable heritage. Making exactly the

same models would be very hard. We can roughly copy them but to remake them identically is impossible. -Bên is himself a renowned puppet maker. For larger orders, he works with his cousin's workshop. -Hello, boss. -Good morning. I'm coming today to see the pieces from the new show. -Look at the shape of the horse. Do you think anything should be added? -The horse is well proportioned, with very wide hips. A real war horse. It's good! -To play the scene, we must install a mechanical system in it. You may need to adapt a little. -Artisans carve the

puppets by hand in a light and strong wood like fig wood. -When I place an order with Tien, I absolutely ask him to respect the wood I need. Next, the paint must be beautiful and the mechanisms well oiled so that during the performance in the water, the puppets move smoothly. These are the quality criteria. The majority of puppets made here are reserved for the village troupe. Others are sold at the Hanoi theater. Phong, 25, joined the workshop a year ago. -The more society evolves, the more we need to think about adapting design and performance to

modern times. We also design small puppets as souvenirs for tourists. This allows us to earn our living and do shows in scale models. At home, for tourists, but also to popularize culture among young people, from children in nursery schools to students. -In the village of Dao Thuc too, the tradition of water puppets is alive and well. Outdoor shows take place several times a month. -Please, the artists who will participate at the performance, please come down to make pre-show preparations. All of you, please! -The members of the troupe all have another job and earn around ten

euros each per performance. Today, they play for a few tourists and a kindergarten class from the neighboring village. Immersed in water up to their waists, the puppeteers demonstrate dexterity And physical resistance. Mihn is one of 5 women in this troupe for 15 years. -Previously, only men could play. Women could only sing. But from 1984, when the puppet troupe was restored, women began to learn the craft. The elders then passed on their knowledge to women. But on one condition: they had to marry a man from the village. If they married someone from outside, they were not

allowed to learn this art. Today, it's more open and the rules Are much more flexible than back then. -It is thanks to these passionate artists that this age-old art resists time. Applause. Electronic music. ... -Jérôme, I'm taking you to the Perfume Pagoda. For the Vietnamese, it is a sacred place. It is dedicated to the princess of Dieu Thien, who retired for 9 years in Huong Tich cave. Then she became a Buddha. -There are a lot of boats. How many in total? -4000 boats. -4000! Wow... -This Perfume Pagoda is considered sacred land and has become a

place of pilgrimage for all Vietnamese. -There's music everywhere since we left. What is the idea? -It is to attract people's attention because they sell drinks, coffee. -It’s festive, huh? ... There are moments like now, without the music, We are in a slightly mysterious atmosphere with the mist, these rocky peaks... -It's very pleasant. It's a way of meditating. You immerse yourself in nature. -We're going to start meditating to forget this music. Even if she's nice, we're going to meditate anyway. ... *-Here you can buy toys, choose your backpack , your clothes, your umbrella. ... -There's everything,

it's quite confusing. Is it a porcupine? -Yes. -Looking at it like that, it doesn't whet my appetite, but hey. Since a while ago, I've been meeting lots of people and there's only one dressed in very elegant traditional clothing, that's you. -THANKS! I love this traditional outfit, especially the long dress for women. It represents femininity. -It suits you very well! *-You can try! For 50,000 you get 8 sachets. I invite you to taste. -It looks like fabric, like a piece of cushion. It looks flexible, what is it? -Wheat flour. -It hardens and becomes crunchy. It's a

little sweet, it's not bad. There are small statuettes. -Of the bodhisattva and the disciples of the Buddha, Ho Chi Minh too. -What faith are you of? -I am an atheist but I practice the teachings of the Buddha. In the evening, before bed or in the morning before getting up, I reserve 15 to 30 minutes depending on the time I have to meditate and better feel the sensations in my body. For example, when someone says something mean or negative to me, doing meditation allows me to control myself better and avoid getting angry When I feel the

fire burning in my body. -Are you able to control your emotions and become master of those that invade you? ,So let's share the positive together, again today. -Now you can make a wish. And then you crash. You do like this 3 times. ... -We're going up quite high there, I say. -We arrived at the cave. Flowers can be purchased as an offering. -Great. What do you want to take? -The grapefruit tree. -Now we descend into the bowels of the mountain. The size of this cave... -Jerome, you see, if you want to have a son, you

come here to pray. -In front of this concretion? For girls, is it elsewhere? -Yes. -I already have a son and a daughter, I won't need to pray. Prayer in Vietnamese. Bell. ... ... ... It's beautiful to see people like that, praying, in this setting which is between the mysterious and the magical, with these lights and these flowers, this gilding. -It's special. -Why is it called the Perfume Pagoda? -It is a metaphorical fragrance of the Buddha, representing the charity and benevolence of human beings. -It's a pretty name, it's very poetic. -This site is very famous in

songs and poems. -Would you sing me a few phrases or a verse? -Yes. That's how it is. ... -Well done! Thank you. -It was nothing. -Do you want your coat? -Yes, I'll put it in the bag. See you soon. -Be careful on the road. Tang is of Hmong ethnicity. He leaves his mother and grandmother to go to work. For 5 months, he has been hired as an "easy rider", these bikers who take tourists on the Ha Giang loop, a circuit of around 350 km in northern Vietnam. -Good morning. -Hi. What's your name? -Tang, and you?

-Lisa. -Delighted. Where are you from? -From France. -For many backpackers like Lisa, renting a motorbike with driver to do the Ha Giang loop has become an essential adventure. -It is done over 3 or 4 days, we make several stops in several villages to admire the mountains and discover local life. We go with a big group and we all enjoy together. It's nice. -Are you ready for the loop? -YES! -Have a good trip, bye-bye! -These French and Quebec tourists will discover one of the most beautiful roads in Vietnam. In this setting of mountains and rice terraces

live nearly twenty ethnic groups. A diversity that is only found in the north of the country. Pablo, a student in Ho Chi Minh, in the south of Vietnam, wanted to explore this very different region. -The Giang Loop, I didn't know about it before coming. I knew more about Ha Long Bay, the rice fields. When I came to Vietnam, I quickly had friends who had done it Earlier. It's something that everyone has started talking about. There is this biker spirit very associated with Vietnam. Everyone has a scooter so there is a feeling of freedom in the

mountains. -This remote province has opened up to tourism in recent years. It will welcome 3 million visitors in 2024, 5 times more than 10 years ago. This restaurant is the only one for miles around. All the groups of bikers and tourists on the loop stop there for lunch. -It's good, huh. -A few years ago, when this restaurant opened, we only had 30 or 40 customers. Now we have 200 or 300. Up to 600 this afternoon. Tourism is developing, we live better. Instead of plowing the fields, we work here. -Travelers sometimes move away from the main

roads by taking small roads only accessible by motorbike. -It hits the butt a bit, it's difficult to pass. You have to trust your driver because otherwise, we quickly tend to put our feet to the side. He did it like a boss. -The group will spend the night in this inn run by a Thai family. -You can choose a bed. The toilet is behind and the bathroom is downstairs. Dinner is at 7:30 p.m. -We get driven but it's tiring all the same. We see too many beautiful things! -While the tourists settle in, the drivers relax. They

are hired by the day and paid the equivalent of 10 euros per day. -It's a rather low salary, in my opinion. But it's true that in this region, we can make a living from it, it could be enough. -The Ha Giang loop is kilometers covered but also moments of conviviality around the famous local rice wine. -Are you ready? -YES! They toast in their language. -This northern province does not only attract foreigners: these 4 Vietnamese friends come from Bac Ninh, near the capital, and are visiting the region for the first time. -I wanted to come here

To experience the different cultures of Vietnam's ethnic groups, just for fun. I would like to go everywhere to explore my country. I've wanted to come here for a long time and I'm happy to be able to do it today. -The route is punctuated with viewpoints to admire and natural sites to explore. The guides chose to stop in this village so that tourists could enjoy a break on the water. -They have large bamboos that allow them to push the bottom of the water to move us forward. There, they clung to a thread which they pulled To

make us move towards the point where we must go. -The place, long unknown, is now more and more popular, which has changed the lives of the inhabitants. -One of my jobs is to pilot rafts. But my main job is a mason. I only started rafts this year. Before, there were no Western tourists yet, only Vietnamese tourists. Now there are a lot of Westerners. -Authentic and wild, the province of Ha Giang Is attracting more and more adventurers in search of adventure. ... -Look, I found an edible flower, very sweet. Do you want to taste? -Yes. Do

you eat the petals or do you eat all? -You open it like this. -Ah, you take the top off. -It will give you energy. -Oh my! I am part of the Dao ethnic community! -No comment. -Yes, we don't say anything. My mom is tricking me! So. There, I am A high dignitary of the Dao. We laugh, we go hiking but above all, pick herbs and plants. -Yes. We use plants for healing. It's good for the body, back pain, shoulders, everywhere. -Is this ancestral knowledge that the Dao ethnic group has held for centuries? -The Dao originate

from China. They already had knowledge of herbal medicine. When we arrived in Vietnam in the 8th century, We were able to preserve this knowledge until now. It is passed down from grandmother to mother to daughter, each generation. I continue to learn with my mother. In the future, I will do the same with my daughter. Mom knows more than 200 plants for healing. She has everything in her head. No writing, no books, just memory. -All right. The crown should be given to her ! May Kim, you are the queen of plants. How high is Ta Phin

village? -Here, we are at an altitude of 1500 m. It's quite high. It's cold all year round. -It's a tightrope walk. Hold. -This plant treats babies when they have itching. We put him in a purifying bath. -Alright. -These plants cannot be put in a bath. They are also suitable for drinking. It's especially for men. -For what? -This medicine is called “100% fit, 2 happy people”. Do you need it? It's for you. -For now, it's okay but you never know, it happens at some point in life. When you bring this up to your husband, you're giving

him a signal. -Yes! -With the mist, it's outside of time, like a moment. We moved from rice fields to another type of agriculture. The cabbages are beautiful! -How are you? Not too difficult? Fortunately your buffalo is used to it. -It's a formula 1 of plowing. -He is plowing his land to plant rice. Then he will fill with water and can plant his rice plants. -The earth looks very rich. It's a rudimentary piece of equipment but still just as effective. -Do you want to try doing it? -No! I'm already very bad at water skiing, I don't

even dare to try. -Here, if a man does not know how to plow his rice fields with a buffalo, he cannot find a wife. -It's true? I would be single, then. Is buffalo still widely used here in Vietnam? -Yes. The rice fields are steep, You can't bring a tractor, only the buffalo. ... Welcome to our home. The whole family lives here. -Is that where you grew up? Wow. I saw in passing that there were like large barrels in which customers take herbal baths? -Yes, we offer herbal baths. You can go there, if you want. It

will warm your body. -Wow! It will warm me up and bring me lots of beneficial effects. There is a knock at the door. Come in! -How are you, Jérôme? -It's great. -The water is not too hot? Are you happy? -It's paradise. I don't want to get out. I think I'll stay there for another day. I'm coming to accompany you. I see you busy. You embroider, right? -In Dao culture, if a girl does not know how to embroider, she will not find a husband. This is why girls learn to embroider from the age of 6-7. The

yellow patterns represent the rice fields in tiers. Do you know how long it takes us to make a jacket like that? -A month? -One year. And sometimes even 2. -No! Oh dear... There are several dao communities. You are the Red Dao. -In Vietnam, there are several groups of Dao: the reds, the flowers, the blacks, the blues, lots of different communities that live almost everywhere. In Sapa, we are the red Dao because we wear a red headdress. We have the same language but not the same clothes. -I have a lot of admiration for your patience and

your talent. -In 2020, Dao embroidery was classified as UNESCO intangible heritage. -Wow. It's great. -Here is the place where we sell our embroidery to passing tourists. -It's very nice. There is the headband for playing tennis. -It's for girls. -The little bracelet is nice. What is this? -We find the patterns of the rice fields, and red brings luck. -Alright. So red, to remind me of your color. THANKS. I look at the tunics, they are magnificent. -Jerome! Come on, let's prepare the meal. -I'm coming. Do you need a little help? -Yes. -We “broccolise”. It was you who

had the idea of ​​welcoming people to take herbal baths but also so that they stay to sleep, eat, and offer them an experience as close as possible to your everyday life? -Yes, that's me, in 2017. My family is very poor. I saw that many tourists came here to the village. They wanted to sleep there and I said to myself: “Let’s make lodgings to accommodate them.” Do you want to try? -Yes. Shall we go back like this? Have you already had the opportunity to visit your country, to go to the South, to the seaside? -The sea?

No, I always stayed here. -Is this something that interests you? -Yes, I would dream of seeing Ha Long Bay. I hope to bring my whole family to see this. -We're going to have fun. There's the whole family, great! What a beautiful table. -Enjoy your food! -Wow! You only tell me now that you speak French. -A little bit! -The little chip is there, I hadn't seen it. She is sleeping. This means that there are 4 generations at the same table. It's great. It's very good. Do people from the guesthouse usually come and eat with you? -Yes,

always. -It's great. -What is your grandmother's name? -Her name is Yo May. In our culture, all women Have the nickname May which means “beautiful”. Men also have a nickname, “pa”, which means big. -So women are beautiful and men are fat. Laughs. Everyone is dressed in traditional costume except me. I still have a small testimony of the culture and tradition of the Red Dao that I keep with me. You will be with me every day. -I hope it brings you luck. -Thank you so much. -He's just waking up. Pangolins have a long snout and a long

tongue, 20 to 30 cm. Here they are fed through a bamboo tube that is quite deep, so they really have to use their tongue to get all the food. -The pangolin is the only mammal in the world to be covered in scales. -It's really hard. When a pangolin is in danger, it curls up into a ball and its entire body is protected by its scales. There is no more hold possible. Predators can no longer attack them. But this technique does not work against humans who just have to pick them up. When they're in a ball,

they can't move. He is one of our Javanese pangolins. He is a victim of snare traps. He lost his 2 front legs. Because of this, it cannot be released into the wild. -Sander works for a Vietnamese wildlife protection NGO. In the heart of the Cuc Phuong National Park, this sanctuary is home to various species victims of international trafficking, such as the binturong, the gray otter and, above all, the pangolin. The animal, which became famous despite itself During the covid pandemic, is also the most poached in the world. Its trade and consumption are prohibited but this

small mammal remains very popular in Vietnam and other Asian countries. -Men poach it for its meat and the scales are used in traditional medicine. Sometimes they even put the whole pangolin in rice wine. 1 kg of pangolin meat sells for 5 million dongs, or 180 euros in Vietnam. For some, it's the equivalent of a month's salary. That's why they continue to do it, even if they risk prison. -Animals seized by the Vietnamese authorities are entrusted to this shelter. They most often arrive here dehydrated and injured, like this female pangolin collected 5 weeks earlier. -She was

injured in the tail by a snare trap when she was still in the wild but she healed remarkably well on her own. She also suffers from claws. There's a good chance she was injured by the cage or bag she was carried in While trying to escape. She must have broken her claws like that. -The bandages must be changed every 3 days and the treatment will last for a few more weeks. The veterinary team takes advantage of the anesthesia to perform an ultrasound because the female is expecting a baby. -Ah, my heart is beating. -If all

goes well, this female will be released into the wild with her baby in a few months. Regularly, members of the team explore the park in search of the best food for the pangolins. They will try to bring back a nest of weaver ants that small mammals love in nature. -Try to drop it somewhere where it can be picked up. -The larger the nest, the more ant eggs it contains, which are particularly nutritious for pangolins. -Come on, grab this! -Now we have to hurry because they are attacking us because we have just attacked their nest. We

have to cut it now. -We have enough food for the baby pangolins today. -The NGO does everything possible to ensure that pangolins can return to live in the wild when their condition allows it. The semi-freedom area is the last stage before returning to the wild. -The pangolins will stay at least a month in this semi-freedom zone. If they pass each test, they can be released into the wild. -Dog sets camera traps To be able to observe the behavior of these nocturnal animals. -We will see the pangolins come out, check if they can find food alone

and how they act at night. Working with pangolins takes a lot of time. We must be patient. But when I see them go back into the wild, it gives me even more motivation to continue and I feel very happy. -In 10 years, this Vietnamese organization has released nearly 1,100 pangolins. -The landscapes are extraordinary. It's a patchwork of colors. It's beautiful. -Yes. Mount Fansipan is the highest mountain in Vietnam. Many people go up to pray and admire the view. -You spoil me for the end of my trip. THANKS. -It was nothing. -I put on my black

Dao cap. -Your black hat. -We feel the altitude. Phew! It's superb. Jérôme is out of breath. May Kim laughs. -From here to the top, there are 500 steps. -We did 1/3 of it. The wind barely allows you to breathe because it comes so strong. Are we going to the Buddha? Come on. You're not out of breath, you. You live at altitude. This Buddha is majestic. It is monumental. It's quite strange, I have the impression that the site is not that old. -This site was built from 2013 and opened to the public in 2016. -OK, it's

very recent. There was a desire to highlight this natural heritage By creating a visit site as well as a religious one. It's quite symbolic of the development of your country. -There are more and more tourists so from an economic point of view, it is more favorable. Vietnamese people can have a better life. -But the authenticity remained. It really touched me to see that the country was not disfigured by this economic development. I am counting on you and the Red Dao to remain present and defend your culture and traditions. -We don't know what tomorrow will bring

but whatever happens, we will do our best To keep our culture because we are very attached to it. -Oh my, this view! You really have incredible assets here in the North. There are many places, especially cities, like Hanoi and its old quarter, and Hoi An, which keep their roots very deep in your history. It was a very beautiful trip. Take care of yourself and yours. I wish you the best. Promise me that when you realize your dream of going to see Ha Long Bay, you will send me a photo of you and the family there.

Promised? That works. My trip to northern Vietnam ends. I hope you enjoyed its culture and landscapes. See you soon for new beautiful escapes in other distant lands. You can watch this show in replay, follow behind the scenes of filming on social networks. Until then, take care of yourself, see you soon. “Tom biêt!” -Bye! -GOOD! Bye. france.tv access