[Music] [Applause] hey what's up YouTube D the fix it man got another quick video here for you I'm going to show you how to change your front brake pads and your front brake rotors on a 2005 Toyota Corolla now the first thing that I like to do is push this caliper piston back inside the caliper which is going to give us more room for the new thicker pads and of course the thicker rotors now when we push the caliper piston back in that's going to push the hydraulic fluid back up this line and into our master cylinder so it's important that we pop the hood and verify that there's enough room in there so that when that fluid comes back up into it it's not going to overflow and make a big mess as an alternative method you could also crack open this little bleeder screw put a little hose on there and you could push the caliper piston back in and that's going to expel the old fluid out the bleeder and that's not a bad way to do this too it's also a good way to cycle through your brake fluid completely up to you how you want to do it now because I'm not going to open the bleeder I'm not going to have to bleed the brakes when I'm done because I'm not introducing any air or the possibility of any air getting into our hydraulic system but let's go ahead and take a look up top and see if there's enough room so that we can push this caliper piston back in and get this done okay so here's our master cylinder and you can see that it's got quite a bit of fluid in here but it's way down from the max and I think when we push that caliper piston back in we're not going to overflow this and make a mess a lot of people ask me if you need to take the cap off before pushing that caliper piston back in now you really don't need to take this off and I usually don't take it off I usually leave it on unless I need to remove some brake fluid or add new brake fluid brake fluid is hygroscopic meaning that it absorbs or attracts moisture even the moisture in the air is not good it can cause your brake fluid to degrade and go bad that's why brake fluid containers are always sealed so really the less you can expose the brake fluid to air or moisture the better so I'm going to leave that on and looks like we've got enough room to push that caliper piston back in now there's quite a few ways you can push the caliper piston back in you can take this off and then use the caliper compression tool or wind back tool but what I usually do because there's a nice large window here is just grab a little pry bar like this one this is the Mayu Dominator that I really like and it fits right in here and what we're doing is just catching the edge of the rotor or p and pull that towards you now what I'm going to do is shift this over in between the inside pad and the rotor you can see right in here maybe not with the camera but that's going to allow us to pry this the rest of the way back in so I'm going to continue to pull that towards me now that's turning the wheel as well till the steering wheel locks and that should do it right there now you can see we've got lots of room in there for the new thicker pad material I should mention I also do have the wheel turned outward so that you can get to this caliper a little bit easier now the next thing we need to do is loosen and remove these two caliper slide pin bolts and those are a 14 mm I'm just going to use the Milwaukee mid torque here that's what those look like we'll set those aside now we can pull off the caliper and I've got these little caliper hooks so I'm just going to hook that on here and hang it way up high on the coil spring so it's out of our way all right now we can pump out the old brake pads all right now we can loosen and remove the two caliper bracket bolts and those are a 17 mm socket I'm going to use the same Milwaukee mid torque here to hopefully get these off there we go now we've got to use a universal see if that will still have enough power to pop this off and I've got one hand holding the bracket because once you take these bolts out that will just fall to the ground okay we can't quite get it with this now unfortunately when we use the impact wobble that takes away some of our power and that was not enough to break that loose so we can either use a breaker bar or the larger impact I'm going to see if that will fit in there all right well here's the bigger Milwaukee see if this one will fit in here got a little Cen socket there with a universal yeah fits on there let's see if that'll Break It Loose and our bracket comes right off now take a look the rotor is also just coming right off that's pretty nice now a lot of times these will get stuck and you have to go at it with the Tanya Harding or you know you can also use the two bolt method if the rotor has holes this one does not so we're lucky this one just popped right off now before I put the new rotor on I'm going to clean the Hub with this wire wheel and a drill just make sure you wear some eye protection if you're going to use something like this now I'm also going to brush the Hub with a little bit of this copper antias that really seems to prevent these from getting stuck the copper seems to be a little higher heat than the aluminum but the aluminum anes would work just fine on here too kind of just focusing on this shoulder area here trying not to get that on the lug nuts and then we're going to spray some brake cleaner here on this paper towel going to wipe the new rotor surfaces because these get packed in some oil we just want to make sure you clean that off before you put this on and then we'll line that up let's hit the outside here too all right we're also going to change out our Hardware here on the bracket so just just pop those clips off and this one's not too bad but I'm going to clean that up a little bit now I am going to brush a little bit of caliper grease underneath those clips now the reason is because a lot of rust and buildup happens underneath here this is more of a protectant than a lubricant but this stuff will really prevent the rust and corrosion from happening under those clips the thing is if it does corrode underneath here and the rust starts to build up that will cause your brakes to bind so it is important to put some protection underneath these clips let's go ahead and put the new ones in now some kits don't come with replacement clips and a lot of times I've had to just clean these up and reuse them them but it's ideal if you can put new clips on each time they just snap into place I'll also wipe a little bit of that protective grease on the clip as well that seems to help the pad slide in there too without getting bound up all right now we also need to pull out these slide pins and we'll clean and regrease them this one actually doesn't look too bad use that same caliper grease here this is the versam it's a real pretty blue color [Music] pop that back in when you push it in you see how it wants to push out you kind of need to push it in and squeeze on the boot and that will burp that little air you hear that little pop now it looks good feels nice and smooth and it's not pushing out let's do the same with this one here really not too bad these really weren't dry or sticky now I'm pretty sure I did the brakes on this vehicle the last time they were done these slide pins felt really nice and smooth there there they are again just kind of squeeze that pop out that air that looks good and this is ready to go back on now before I put that caliper bracket back on I am going to use a little bit of this blue thread Locker this is a Permatex medium strength and this will help hold these caliper bracket bolts in place oh that's way too much perfect and I'll just kind of smear that around like so that looks good now here I probably could have grabbed a lug nut to put this on and hold it in place and I'll do that especially with a heavier Duty rotor these are pretty lightweight so it's not going to be too difficult I think to fight this just kind of got to line that up and we'll get these caliper bolts started and I'm just going to Snug these real quick with the Milwaukee here and then I'm going to get these torqu to 70 9 footb all right and then we just put the new brake pads in kind of helps to come in here at a little bit of an angle and then just let's try that again I think our pads are a little too big I hate when this happens but it does happen every once in a while so here's what's going on guys so these brake pads for whatever reason this is the brake best select brand this is the O'Reilly house brand now here's the old brake pad that we took off take a look pops right in no problem at all now I went back to O'Reilly and I said hey these are not working and I just took the old pad and went back to back with the new pad and you can see that the new pad is longer 4. 81 in on the old one and the new one is 4. 84 in is now here's the other part it's 4.
07 let's see if that's the same on here yes it is 4. 07 and the inside part here 3. 8 on the Old Pad 3.
