This is the Wild North, the most dangerous route in all of Kenya. It's about speed, defensive driving, and avoiding fierce bandits. >> We have gunshot injuries.
This is a war zone. Home to East Africa's only true desert, the Chelby. If the weather isn't harsh enough, then guntoing bandits or the savage landscape roads will try to get you on the region's most dangerous transport corridors.
This is the Wild North. Sunrise, the spectacular magnificence of dawn. This is the beauty of Lake Tukana.
Almost [music] everyone here is a fisherman. Here, fish is life. The fish from Lake Turkana are tastier compared to those from other lakes in Kenya.
Lake Turkana has two important harbors. Kala Cole on the western shore and [music] Illerit on the eastern shore. At Colloc, truckers have started to arrive.
They are the second and most important link. >> 60-year-old Morris, nicknamed Dodo, meaning a slippery guy, is a truck driver. His reputation as a slippery guy stem from his exceptional ability to navigate through dangers horned over decades of driving experience.
On the eastern side of Turkana is the Iler region parched due north close to the border of Kenya and Ethiopia. Illeret in Marzabid County is one of the last remaining vestigages of a desert lifestyle still frozen in time. But do not let this fool you.
The expansive desert nothingness, gunslinging bandits, and an almost non-existent road transport network are the order of the day. This area is the playground of truck driver Patrick Kimmani, nicknamed [music] jungle warrior, one of the few drivers who are brave enough to conquer this unforgiving terrain. Dodo [music] and Patrick both transport fish from Lake Turkana to Busousia, the border town between Kenya [music] and Uganda.
Fishermen are the first link in a conveyor-like chain [music] to ensure the fish reaches the market. Time for fishermen to set [music] their sails. Each boat ride across the lake is [music] a potential danger.
crocodiles. Lake Turkana is home to the largest colony of Nile crocodiles in the world. >> Now a question of the fisherman looking for fish there and crocodile also looking for fish.
So you find in those areas where now there's a lot of crocodile attack. >> The world's largest desert [music] lake dominates the landscape. This is Lake Turana, nicknamed [music] the Jade Sea.
Welcome to one of the fish harbors, Long Etch Island, where most of the fish is processed before it is carried off to Calico Port for transportation. Peter is one of the biggest suppliers of fish. The water level of the lake has risen, causing fish to retreat into the dense vegetation where it is difficult to cast our nets.
He is working with his two wives. It is a fishy family affair. Time to pack it.
A bale carries 5,500 pieces or [music] more, and it's no easy task. The suppliers are running late and Dodo must reach his destination in time. No delivery in sight.
Patience is a virtue and more so when it comes to waiting for fishermen. With tensions and anxiety flaring, Dodo decides to calm his nerves by taking a nap underneath his truck. Come on.
>> As Dodo swims in his dreams, loaders enjoy a Bollywood movie at the Kalico movie theater while they wait for the fisherman. >> On the eastern side of Turkana is the Ilerate region. Patrick transports fish from Illerid to Busousia, the western edge border town of Kenya and Uganda.
a journey of approximately 1,200 [music] kilometers. >> We're going to take approximately 24 hours from here to Matavit to Busia. It's roughly 2 to 3 days.
>> From the different sides of the lake, drivers are always in a competition on whose product will reach the market first. While Patrick's truck is being loaded, a mechanic is also checking to ensure that it is in mint condition before the journey begins. Like in many harbors in Lake Turkana, nothing is ever on time, so Patrick has to make haste for the loaders.
Yousef is Patrick's assistant and the designated navigator for the trip. With the product finally on board, the load is firmly secured and ready for the journey ahead. >> Since no passenger vehicles are plying this route, Patrick creates space for passengers who will be fed on the roof of the truck to earn some extra income.
>> So we are set to go. Everything is roed in place. We are starting the journey right now.
>> It's a journey not for the faint-hearted, but only the strong. >> It's very tough. >> The first leg of Patrick's journey starts from Illerit, a distance of about 500 km of the most horrendous roads.
Patrick is one of only 10 drivers who ply this route. Conditions of the road make this journey, which normally take about 12 hours, double the amount of time to drive through. >> I have been doing this truck driving for 10 years.
The notoriety of this place is simply a desolate landscape with no people, just you, the road, and your god. Maneuvering through the gullies and sand pits is a very delicate affair. Patrick is proud of his truck.
That's why he has nicknamed it the jungle warrior. Every now and then, Ysef helps guide Patrick on how to navigate through the treacherous terrain. >> What motivates me is that truck driving is an adventure for me.
Secondly, I feed my family through this work. >> That's why I am behind the steering wheel for 24 hours. In the jungle, you can travel 400 km in 4 days.
However, when it rains, that signals the end of the journey. That is the end of the road. >> Uncharacteristic of many people who drive this area, Patrick loves his job wholeheartedly.
To him, a touch of violence adds spice to his life. >> I was once hijacked and beaten along with my turnboy. We have witnessed worse things on this road and we bear gunshot injuries.
>> You know that [music] the front tip becomes very hot when a gun is fired. They tortured me with a muzzle, leaving me with scars and enduring trauma. >> We sustained injuries but managed to escape.
>> Since most of the community is armed with weapons, a silent thought that the truce can be broken at any moment always lingers in the air. This makes it even more dangerous for innocent people like Patrick who might be caught up in the crossfire while on duty. One significant challenge we face is the bandits who set ambushes by strategically placing stones and debris on the road.
The already poor road conditions make it exceedingly difficult to navigate quickly, putting everyone at risk. Patrick has been a driver for 17 years, 10 of which driving along this route. To him, this is an epic adventure that enables him to provide for his family.
>> If I weren't a driver, I would choose to be a soldier as I have a deep passion for the jungle environment. Despite the challenges of insecurity, I find a sense of comfort and belonging in the jungle. The route passes through sections of the famed CBloi National Park.
CBoey is often referred to as the cradle of mankind. National Park. It hosts several important archaeological sites such as the Kobora, which several fossils have been found that have contributed to understanding human evolution.
>> This is now the Ciro National Park, this side of the road. Yes, I do. >> I love wild animals.
>> They're part of the travel adventure. >> Tourists come to see impalas and cheetahs at Koba. >> Back on Long Edge Island, packers are moving quickly to package the fish.
It is a team effort that needs precision and accuracy. Then to compress it, the Turkana jump ready for Kalakoport, the gateway from Turkana. The boat is the only means of transport between the islands and the mainland.
As the boat rides across the calm water, a stark reminder that the water level is rising with trees sticking out of the middle of the lake. Every day, danger looms. The water level has risen by over 3 m within the last 3 years, displacing thousands of people.
Long Edge Island and the town of Kico might be swallowed up by the lake in the near future if the water level continues to rise. With the boat finally arriving at the port, no one is happier than Dodo, who has been waiting for over 6 hours. The boat has just arrived.
This is one of the problems we encounter. Loaders are eager to offload and pack the fish. Place it inside the water.
Hey, watch out for the engine. The engine is safe. >> Our survival depends on this crucial work.
The sole opportunity we have is to load fish. >> One load of fish is almost 200 kg, but with many hands on it, it goes very easily. >> This shows the strength of the men.
Packing the fish ready for transportation is a work of art. Only experts with vast knowledge are allowed in the packing process because even the tiniest of spaces matters before the fish can undertake the perilous journey of the region. >> Dodo's assistant and co-driver Isaac is also on hand to make sure the loading is done properly.
>> Hey, what are you doing? Why do we need a tall guy in that corner? >> Andrew is one of the porters and also an aspiring musician.
>> His musical journey is yet to pick up, so he makes do with loading in the meantime. Time is against Dodo. He has to make haste to try and catch up with Patrick, who has already started his journey.
The loading is now complete. I am heading to Busousia. We are a convoy of two trucks and the other will head to Siara.
This journey will last 2 and 1/2 days. A final check of the truck is done to ensure that everything is fine before heading off. Dodo cannot forget his mat, a handy companion, which he packs behind the driver's cabin.
I am now ready to head to Busia. It's a borderto-border journey from the border of Ethiopia to the Busia border with Uganda. From Koko, Dodo will drive to Loir, the largest town in the desert region.
>> I'm now heading towards Busia. Yeah, >> with over a decade of years [music] driving through this region, he was the pioneering driver of the Turkana busia route. Throughout the years, he has seen a metamorphosis of the road infrastructure from unpaved roads into one of the most maintained tarmac roads in the region.
The road used to be rough. There were bandits everywhere. But now things have changed.
This is security. >> Tana is Kan. This is Kan.
However, no one cares about Tana. >> Overlooking the great town, it's the Christ, the redeemer. The statue stands tall and majestic as if bearing [music] testament to the dynamic landscapes of Tana.
Tana is a region of ancient history and culture. This is an annual festival to celebrate this called the Tubanglore, meaning welcome back home. It is a blend of culture, music, and fashion that attracts visitors from all over Kenya and beyond.
The nation's cabinet secretary of tourism, Rebecca, is also present to promote the region to the world. >> The oldest remains of a human being were found here in Truana. Anyone who visits this destination is actually coming home.
>> The festival aims to cultivate lasting peace. The most powerful message is simple. Lay down your arms.
>> As Dodo cuts through the town, a motorbike accident occurs. Five young men were riding on a motorbike. Pedestrians express their anger as the young men deal with the pain.
They need to be rushed to the hospital. >> Hurry up. Get in the truck.
We take you to the hospital. And thanks to the police, as their motto dictates, service to the people. The visit to the hospital comes with an escort.
Compared to truck drivers who work in Kico, the road infrastructure is better than the one in the Ilar area. On the eastern side, after a strenuous drive across the Cibiloi Park, Patrick's jungle warrior comes to a halt for his first service check. Every few kilometers, Patrick has to check the condition of his tires.
Due to the heat and hard rocks on the track, the tires tend to burst, so they have to be checked and maintained. >> We are at the Turkana North Junction. This is the major checkpoint.
This is where we check the truck, stretch and move around and we move. >> Looking ahead, I believe the journey will be quite pleasant. First of all, the weather is good with no signs of rain, which is often one of our biggest challenges.
Additionally, we are traveling at an optimal time, which should contribute to a smooth trip. Despite the rough terrain, trucks here easily do more trips than Calico. >> The difference between Calico and Illerit is that Illerit has plenty of fish, whereas Kalico suffers from over fishing.
Marseid County is one of Kenya's 47 devolved regions. It is larger than Belgium and [music] Turkey combined. Marseet is an Amheric word that means home.
>> [music] >> Several hours later, Patrick arrives at a police checkpoint at a place called Date. >> Date is an oasis, one of the only sources of water in this desert region. This oasis has been a battleground between the two communities of Gabra and Dosenach.
And as Patrick drinks a cup of water, he and his passengers are weary [music] of hostilities that arise without notice. Back in Turkana, along Dodo's route, bandits are on the prowl. It's abandoned attack and no one is safe, including Dodo and his co-driver Isaac.
It is presently a gunfight zone between police and bandits. >> And there is a crackdown on bandits who want to steal livestock from the Turkana. The police are ready to smoke them out.
It's war. It's bitter. It's revenge.
In 2012, bandits massacred over 40 police officers in one night. Two years later, 21 policemen were killed in the Capendo Tana region. This is one of the deadliest places to be a police officer.
With a lack of security, schoolgoing children sometimes get caught up in the crossfire between the waring factions. The fighting extends deep into the night. Bandits also attack a bus plying this route and one passenger gets shot in response.
The government has instituted a curfew to ensure the safety and security of all citizens. The curfew infuriates Dodo because he prefers to travel at night. Not being able to travel also reduces the number of trips they can make in a week.
>> This route has been dangerous every year that I have been driving. For Patrick, he is lucky he can drive throughout the night, but he has to make a stop to allow one of his passengers to pray. On day two, as the sun rises, Patrick continues to lead the jungle warrior down this dangerous route, showcasing his unwavering determination and courage.
Luckily, he managed [music] to pass through some of the dangerous stops on this road where he previously had a rough time. between >> we were attacked between Date and North in Kulum. >> They shot the fuel tank and tire injuring us.
That's why we prefer day travel. From North the journey proceeds southwards towards Mars a bit. Here he will traverse through Chelby Desert, the only true desert in East Africa.
The Cheli [music] Desert extends over 100,000 km. It is an imposing landscape of nothingness as [music] far as the eye can see. Legend has it that this was a lake that dried up and then it dried up.
These rocks resemble volcanic lava deposits likely formed by eruptions near Marsabid Mountain. During the rainy season, the road becomes even worse. Just a few weeks ago, Patrick was a victim of the downpour.
>> During the rainy season, you can spend a whole week on this road because it is very slippery. For instance, 3 weeks ago, I spent six days on it. So, this journey requires you to prepare for anything.
Because if you lack basic needs, you will be in trouble. >> Typical of most truck drivers, Patrick has been fortunate enough [music] not to have been involved in any road accidents. The stretch from >> the stretch from Cerako is about 400 km of rough terrain which is the most challenging part of this journey due to poor road conditions and insecurity in the area.
Along this route, Patrick finds a car which has become the latest victim of the bad route. If no help comes, they could be stuck here for up to a week in an ever volatile security risk area. We experienced an accident.
And without a good car on this road, travel may not be possible. >> [music] >> As they approach Siguel, he finally hits the tarmac, much to his relief. The town of [music] Marseid is just a few kilometers away.
[music] >> We are in Seiguel on our way to Mars a bit. We are done with the rough road. We will have a smooth ride >> in the town of Marcit.
He stops to rest and also to do a minor service of his truck to ensure that everything is fine. We've arrived in Mars a bit and need to check the truck. >> It's best to rest here for a bit due to fatigue.
Lucas is the mechanic [music] who will be servicing the truck for Patrick. He is very experienced in servicing trucks that traverse the harsh Mars a bit landscape. We need to check the turbo and perform a few additional services.
>> As Patrick takes a break from driving, Dodo and Isaac resume their journey. They are still on high alert for bandits. The Kakong stretch, nicknamed Lami Nui, meaning black road, is about 30 km of danger here.
No one drives slowly. If you mention laminusi to any driver, they often panic. >> If you clear this section, you are safe to get to either Lodoir or Katal.
This area, the border between the Pocott and Tokana communities has seen fierce fighting resulting in many lives lost, including police at a former checkpoint. Consequently, the bandits here are very dangerous. This school stands as a beacon of hope.
>> The government's initiative to build schools is bringing the Turkana and Boott communities together, enabling their children to learn side by side. Along this stretch, another school also promotes unity. I sincerely appreciate the government's efforts.
The sessation of conflict has paved the way for our children to thrive in shared learning environments. >> As they approach Marage Point, Dodo instructs Isaac to do a lastm minute check of the tires to ensure everything is okay. We are checking the tires before the steep descent.
The friction can cause them to heat up and failing to check could result in a blowout. By checking them, we ensure everything is in good condition. This picturesque mountain cape is the home of the feared PCOD bandits who wreak havoc across the pass.
Dodo himself has been a victim of banditry. I have encountered bandits more than two times. One of my friends was shot and killed as I watched.
There was a time I was driving a Land Cruiser with university students. When we reached Lami Nusi, about 14 bandits attacked us. Seven had guns while the other seven had bows and arrows.
I told them to take whatever they wanted, not to harm anyone. >> When we reached Kynuk, the university students took me to the police station, accusing me of colluding with the bandits. I denied the accusations and asked them if they could compete with an AK-47.
That is why new drivers are being killed because of resistance. Last year, a driver and a student died. While Dodo drives, Isaac sleeps as he awaits his time at the steering wheel.
We are at a place called Kynuk. This place is a battlefield. When the polka dot raid cattle and try to cross to their side, they usually meet here and it turns into a war zone.
Today it's the Turkana. Tomorrow the Poco retaliate. We get stuck here and witness the fights.
At times you think you're watching a movie. Although he has been an excellent driver, life has thrown do curveballs once too often. I divorced my first wife.
We got married in 1980, but we divorced. I have children, some of who are already working. My current wife now is a doctor working in Catal.
>> Divorce was not the heaviest challenge of his life. >> My firstborn son died when he was 40 years old. He wanted to travel abroad, but I couldn't raise the money.
He developed diabetes and hypertension when he heard that his friend would [music] travel abroad, but not him. Later he suffered depression and that's when he passed on. Dodo has been a cigarette smoker for over 40 years.
He smokes up to one packet of cigarettes every day. To justify his smoking habits, Dodo buys honey along the road. >> Honey is good medicine for my chest.
You have no loose change. Should I return the honey? Seems like you will lose my money.
Even though Dodo is quite experienced in driving through this region, he has faced the unfortunate reality of accidents. A few years ago, he was involved in a serious incident that deeply affected him and transformed the way he drives his truck. >> The Land Cruiser's bonnet popped up and hindered my sight.
I veered to the opposite lane and hit a motorcycle rider. He died on the spot. >> Such experiences can leave lasting impressions and Dodo has taken them to heart as he confidently tackles a stretch that all drivers on this route dread.
Kamatira Hill rises majestically to an altitude of approximately 6,000 ft offering breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. This is a 7 km drive. The Kamatira forest, a lush sanctuary filled with diverse flora, was originally planted by prisoners detained in Capangoria during the 1950s, a crucial [music] period in Kenya's fight for self-governance.
The forest stands as a poant reminder of resilience and hope, symbolizing the enduring spirit of those who contributed to its creation amidst the struggle [music] for freedom. The winding road of Kamatiraa presents a [music] relentless challenge for drivers with its treacherous bends and deep ravines that seem to lurk around every [music] corner. The steep descents test even the most experienced motorists as the unforgiving terrain demands their full attention.
Dodo knows this all too well. He has mourned the loss of several friends and acquaintances who have died trying to traverse the dangerous terrain. >> There was a driver named John who was driving a Nissan.
However, when he reached the top of the hill, the car experienced a brake failure, resulting in the tragic deaths of everyone inside. Sala has a double lane, but here it is a one lane, so it's very dangerous. Any mishap, you perish.
A military bus crashed here, killing all the soldiers. After a crossing [music] well done, Dodo lights a cigarette to express his relief. From now on, his only worry is making it on time to catch the next truck leaving for Congo.
Meanwhile, Isaac is quarreling with someone on the phone. What kind of stupidity are you telling me, idiot? Don't be rubbish.
Understand. >> Dodo uses the chance to give him some relationship advice due to his years of experience. You are breaking up your family without knowing it.
When you get a divorce, the only relationship you have is with a child. And if you can be able to have access to the child anytime, take him to town, buy him shoes, clothes, sweets, and anything he wants and tell the kid to go back to the mother. One day, the child will come to look for you.
But if the wife's family is giving you pressure, do not succumb to the pressure. At Marsit, skilled mechanics are diligently wrapping up final services on the jungle warrior truck, ensuring it's ready for the adventure ahead. Although the road infrastructure is excellent, the Marsabit area is still a hotbed for bandits and interethnic animosity.
This area is very dangerous. You can see we've just passed the tomb of one of the Chinese contractors. He was killed and buried there.
Patrick has a wife and children who live in the town of Marsit here in Lysami. They are a pastoralist community. My wife comes from this area and I fluently speak the Zambu dialect.
As he drives further south, he passes the Olokqui Mountain, a local tourist attraction. This is Mount Olqui in Sambururo County. It is famous for the round feature at the top.
It is the most photographed mountain in the area. At 246 km south of Mars, the town of Isilo stands at the gateway to the northeastern counties of Kenya. This is a relief to Patrick as he is now leaving Mars County and starts to drive west towards his final destination, Busia.
From Illeret to Busousia, Pateau passes through 12 different counties. >> Rain is not a big challenge during the day, but during the night it impairs visibility. visibility.
>> Patrick makes his way through Nanuki, which means the river of blood. Nanuki in Lakeia County has a rich history that sparks different emotions in its locals. As he [music] navigates through the scenic Lakeipia County, he can't help but feel the stories imbued in the land around him.
There are 48 large-scale ranches sitting on 4. 3% of the total land area in Lakeia County, some of which are still owned by the descendants of the colonial settlers. It is owned by the whites.
Nobody knows about the farm because all their produce is for export. Even the British army has set up a base for training in Nanuki. There is bad blood between the locals and the so-called colonial conservies.
With nine more counties to journey through before reaching Busia, he acknowledges the challenges ahead. But he remains hopeful and determined, knowing [music] that each step brings him closer to his destination. Patrick seems to be catching up with Dodo now, even though he has covered more kilometers than Dodo.
Even though Dodo is vastly experienced and started his career even before Patrick was born, Patrick is equally experienced in the task despite his younger age. On this highway, Dodo tries to make up for lost time and picks up on speed whenever he can. Dodo's decade of driving extends to the entire East African region and some parts of southern African countries.
His most unforgettable experience was driving in war torn Somalia. >> I've driven Mirage trucks, buses, lorries, and many more. Drvers are always on the move.
Being a very busy highway, they are not out of the woods yet. The highway is riddled with several black spots every 20 or so kilometers. Dodo has worked alongside Isaac for 2 years as his co-driver.
Today, he gets a word of encouragement. Pray to God to bless the work of your hands. If you are rich and arrogant, you will have a good life.
But don't be poor and arrogant or you will suffer. [music] >> Unfortunately, Dodo has to stop. >> We are fixing the canvas.
Hold it from that end. >> Dodo has had enough of driving and he swaps rolls with Isaac. Isaac will drive the rest of the journey to Busousia.
>> Now it's Dodo's time to take a hard earned nap. A few kilometers later, Dodo is up again and directing Isaac on how to drive. something Isaac is not amused about.
>> Drve slowly and observe the traffic rules. Back on the road with Patrick, the jungle warrior confidently navigated through the vibrant tourist paradise of Nakuru City, which is also rich in agriculture. Because we have Lake Nakuru, Nakuru National Park, Lake Nasha, the hot springs attracts tourists.
>> Up ahead, an accident has occurred. A truck full of sugar cane overturns just a few meters from the jungle warrior. I have suffered a huge loss.
I was transporting goods from Ky, but most of them have been destroyed. >> They should add bumps on this road. Most of the school kids get knocked down.
Last week, a trader was killed by a speeding vehicle. From there, Patrick is driving through the panoramic view of a tea plantation. Carrot Cho is a tea county which has made Kenya the world's third largest tea producer after India and Sri Lanka.
[groaning] These are beautiful rolling hills carpeted in neat bright green tea bushes as far as the eye can see. He snakes through Kisumu City known for Lake Victoria, the largest freshwater lake in Africa and also a fishing zone. Dodo and Isaac are just a short distance away from Busia, and the tension of not making it on time waines [music] between the two drivers.
As Isaac brings it to the park, both drivers are happy with their accomplishment despite starting the journey several hours late. We had a successful journey with a few challenges, but finally we have managed to get here at the end of the day. You see that truck over there?
It is transporting fish to Congo. All the bales you see here are destined for Congo. barely two hours late.
Patrick also arrives in Russia. Even though he had around 1,200 kilometers to cover, he is on time compared to Dodo who had about 400 km less on his route. >> The trip was successful.
We have struggled, but we are finally here. >> Yeah, we are in Bus Fish Market. >> Patrick is my friend.
He fies our fish from to Busia so that we can trade. My package has arrived and it is being offloaded. We sell the congalles who are our customers.
Patrick goes through a lot of hardships. It's a difficult job. The route itself is risky and it is a profession they do with a lot of sacrifice and dedication.
[music] Once the loaders finish unloading their trucks, both drivers will embark on a journey back to the shores of Lake Turkana in a neverending cycle to pick up yet another load while crossing one of the most dangerous transport belts in Kenya. This is the Wild North.
