You struggle with under eye hollows and darkness, so you use concealer to brighten them, but then the concealer creases in the fine lines and wrinkles. So of course you use powder to set it, but then then the powder makes you look dry and crapy and the texture under the eyes look way worse. You just look more wrinkly.
So what do you do? What do you do? Everyone is asking that because, well, it's incredibly annoying if I'm being frank.
If you're new, my name is Gabi. I’ve been a makeup artist for 18 years, and even I've struggled a lot with this. Every year I get more lines and every year my concealer starts looking worse and worse and worse.
But lucky for you, I spend my entire life testing products so that you don't have to. Today's video is a highly requested, under eye masterclass. On my left, I'm going to show you what to do in order to really naturally brighten your eyes and soften the lines without crinkling them.
And on my right, I'm going to show you the mistakes that I see a lot of you making. Let's get started. The first thing you need to do is you need to prep under your eyes so that the makeup sits on top of it really nicely and doesn't want to crease or look chalky or really dry.
Believe it or not, there's actually a right way and a wrong way to do this. And I've made the wrong way mistake many, many times. So the right way to do it is to use a really nice lightweight moisturizer that's hydrating but isn't too oily or too greasy.
And the one that I really like using during the day is by Gopure. It's the Advanced Repair Eye Cream. It has a really nice light formulation that goes right under that eye skin in a very kind of jelly way.
It's hydrating, but it doesn't leave that really strong residue of oil. Now, another eye cream that I love. I absolutely love.
I use it every single night, but I don't find it works well during the day is a Skinceuticals A. G. E.
Advanced Eye. The formula of it is extremely extremely viscous, and it really sits on top of the skin dramatically. Now our next step is to go in with some foundation.
Now I'm going to be using L'Oreal True Match nude, which is a highly erotic tinted serum. And I'm going to use this on both sides of the face. I've been wearing the Maybelline one that's very similar.
It's a tinted serum as well, and I did a whole short about it over on Instagram. I absolutely love the Maybelline one, I was like, you know what? I have got to try the L'Oreal one because a lot of you guys were requesting it, and I've heard so many good things about it.
I heard that it performs just like a very high end foundation. Wow. This is a really nice foundation.
Holy smokes. That's a beautiful. Now, on the good side, what we're going to do is we are actually going to avoid our orbital area completely.
So we are not putting foundation on there at all. And the reason for that is because this skin is very thin and it's very mobile. We laugh, we smile a lot, we scrunch our faces, We do all of the things.
So there's so much movement there. And whenever there's a lot of movement, there's a lot of skin folds. Right?
As you can see, I have a lot of fine lines around my eyes, now that I'm almost 40. It's just the way the cookie crumbles. It's what happens.
And they're going to get worse as I get older. And I'm sure you guys, some of you who are older than me, really struggle with that as well. I can see that in my comment section.
So there is nothing to be ashamed of with that because it shows joy, right? It's a roadmap of joy. But with all of that movement, the more product we put on top of the movement, the more we're going to have issues with creasing.
The more issues we have with creasing, the more we have to set it, the more we sat the chalkier it looks, the more crappy it looks. And it's a vicious cycle, like I said before, right? So we want to layer this very strategically so that we have as few products as possible to achieve the result that we want to achieve.
So on the don't side, I'm going to apply that foundation on the under eyes. So when we do it like this, it's a little bit deceiving because in the initial moment it's going to look better. But as the day goes on, it's going to look significantly worse.
So our next step is to use concealer. Okay, this is what we're really here for. So one mistake that I see people doing a lot is using concealer that is way too light.
And the mindset behind it is that if it's light, you're going to highlight and you're going to make it go away. But on your first pass, when you're working with something that's discolored, so something that is blue toned or purple toned, you really can't go in with something light because it's not going to have the power to cover that thing. What it's going to do, it's actually going to make that thing look really ashy and really weird.
It's almost going to draw attention to it. Another issue that I see is people using formulations that are really dense on eye skin that is too textured. When I was younger, I could use the highest density formulations under my eyes, and it looked incredible and it really, really looked incredible on camera.
Even more than in real life. But now that I have all of these happy lines, it just doesn't work anymore. And it again gets worse and worse as the day goes on.
So CoverGirl true blend undercover concealer was a concealer that I used to love that I will absolutely never use on my under eye skin anymore. And you can see this is color L400. It's a classic ivory, so it doesn't have any peach in it at all.
It really is just a light brightening concealer. And when I apply it under my eyes, you're going to notice that it is just going to look awful. Now, on this side, I'm applying quite a bit and I am applying it in this V.
So there's a few things wrong, right? The concealer is too light. The concealer is too dense of a formulation and it's applied too heavily around an area that has too many lines.
For the do side, what I'm going to do is I'm actually going to go in with a peach tone color corrector. Orange and blue are opposite on the color wheel, so they camouflage and neutralize each other. So now you can get peach tone color correctors from lots of different brands.
I've tried the Charlotte Tilbury one. This one is called under eye face sheet for intense color correction. This one really is a very, very peach toned color corrector.
I have used this for about a week. I've tried so many different ways of applying it and I've never gotten it to look good. Honestly, it just still sort of separates and looks cakey under the eyes after a few hours, which is exactly what we're trying to avoid.
I'm just so over the concealer, looking good in the moment and terrible a few hours later. What I like doing is taking a peach based concealer and the ideal formula for me. So Haus Labs is a concealer that I have just discovered, and I'm absolutely loving how this formula is looking on.
It wears beautifully. It's hydrating, it's brightening, but it also doesn't settle too badly under all of the lines. So I'm going to use this color, which is 14 light peach.
So this is a peach based color. Okay. I have this concealer in so many different colors.
And you can see that the peach based one has ever so slightly a more warm or orange based tone to it. Okay. So it doesn't have to be obnoxiously orange or intensely bright.
You know, like some of the concealers on the market are, some of the color correctors on the market are. It just has to have a bit of a peach tone and be very similar to your skin level. So the darkness or lightness of your skin has to be similar to your skin level and a peach out tone that's going to do the job usually just as well as a corrector does.
So what I do here is I apply the peach tone to the dark areas, which is right here, and I avoid applying it to this area because this area here has a lot of texture. So we really want that area to have as little product on it as possible. Then I'm going to take my brush and I'm going to pat and stipple and that's how we're going to get it to blend perfectly.
You can do this with a concealer brush. This is Nikki La Rose’s brush in BK Beauty number N16. I'll leave a link to all the brushes that I'm using in the description box below.
But if you don't have a brush and you don't want one say or makeup beginner, or you're just not that into makeup, but you just want to cover your dark circles, you can also use your fingertips, the warmth of your fingertips is really going to do a really good job of blending that concealer out. Now, here's another mistake that I see a lot of people doing is not color correcting their eyelid. So your eye an orbital thing, right?
So it goes all the way around. And almost always, if you have blue ness under your eyes, you're also going to have that tone, that darker tone on your eyelid. And you need to correct that.
You can correct that again with eyelid primers. But, you know, sometimes we don't want so many darn products. So you can easily also do that with your peachy concealer.
This is going to do the exact same thing as an eyelid primer as long as you make sure to set it. Because if you don't set a cream based product, what's going to happen is when your eye opens and closes, opens and closes, you're going to end up getting a crease right in here and it's going to happen immediately. I'll avoid setting it for now so that you guys can see how the creasing looks and how we're going to correct it in a second.
Now, as you can see, this side looks so much more natural than this side. This side, it's heavy. And the darkness here, I mean, it's atrocious.
So now our next step is to set. We're going to do more on the good side. I'm going to show you a couple more tricks that will really take this to the next level.
But first, we need to set it. Okay. Like I said, cream products will want to go into the creases right immediately.
That's just what they're going to want to do. So what I see a lot of people doing and I demonstrated on the don't side, is taking a powder that is not good for under the eyes and using that to set very heavily. So this is just a little powder puff.
I often set with a powder and a powder puff, but I find that I have to really use a powder that is extremely finely milled or made specifically for the under eyes for it to work. And even then, if I'm being completely honest, if I'm in sunlight, if there's natural light, there isn't a beautiful soft box here that's blurring and softening everything out. If I am in natural light, it still looks a bit chalky.
It just does. Let's zoom in. As you can see here, I've already started heavily creasing, right?
Like I said, area has so much movement, so putting that much concealer in an area that has that much movement, it's just going to crease. So let's not totally kibosh this experiment and make it look bad on purpose. I really want to show you guys things that you're actually doing.
So I'm just going to clean up the crease before because you never want to set a crease in. Right. And if I were to set a crease, then I would make it look worse than it actually would look in real life, because I don't think anyone is setting creases in with powder, at least I hope not.
If you're watching my channel, hope you know not to do that. So I'm going to go in with this powder and I'm going to bake it. So this is what we used to do in 2020.
Is just apply tons of powder to the under eye skin, let it set and then wipe it away later. Nice on camera when you're 20 to 25, maybe 30, depending on your genetics. Very bad in real life.
Okay. So on the more natural side, what I'm going to do is I am again going to look to see if I have any creases and I have significantly less. Right.
Still a little bit. Did we start creasing? Okay, here we go.
We started decreasing on here already. Okay, That's okay. it's a good lesson.
Right. So you are going to crease immediately. That's just what happens.
So I'm going to take this powder which is made specifically for under the eye, super finely milled. I'm going to wipe away and fix that crease and then I'm going to grab a brush, dip into this powder, and I'm going to set that lid. Now that we've set that lid, what we've done is we've created a satin finish on a cream based product, which is actually great because now it's not sticky anymore.
It's really slippery. So we can blend our shadow colors on it perfectly if we want to. And if we don't want to wear shadows like today, I don't really feel like wearing any shadow.
I'm really feeling a natural day. I'm going to go to the gym later. It still looks really nice and it won't crease.
It just looks even right. Just doing that looks even. This looks kind of oily and discolored and this looks nice.
And even now, before I move on to brightening this, we've color corrected so you can stop here. But if you're like me, you want more. I'm going to set it before moving on to layer two, but I'm going to set it with a setting spray.
I'm sure you could guess that this is my favorite setting spray for that really budge proof finish. Now there's a lot of different setting sprays on the market, if you like one better than this one. Definitely experiment and try using it.
But this one under my eye seems to work the best. I'm going to grab this here and take a look at it. mean, I'm going to look up to make sure I don't have any creasing and I don't and then I'm actually going to push that setting spray into the areas that I put my color corrector.
Now, I'm still seeing quite a bit of darkness. Okay. Right.
You see that? So now we can go in with a brighter tone. So peach took the edge off the darkness.
Now we need to brighten the darkness. Now there's two different ways to go about doing this. Well, there's a million different ways.
It's makeup, it's art, right? There's two ways that I usually go about doing it. I'll take the exact same formula, but in a brightening color, or I'll go in with a fuller coverage.
Okay. Today I'm going to show you the fuller coverage one. This one is shaped tape.
So this is Tarte shape tape. If you haven't heard about it, then listen up. Okay.
This is an OG concealer. This is the concealer everyone talks about for under eye circles, but it's actually very drying and I find it too high coverage. Almost like the covergirl one.
Like this one. It's just a lot. So you don't want to use this as your initial one.
Like, I would never take a peach version of this and then use this. It would be way too much. But I would combine a lighter, more hydrating coverage and then use this one to spot correct.
So actually, let me show you that for demonstration purposes. So this one's called light medium neutral. So it's the same concealer, but it's not the peach one.
It is lighter than my skin tone, which is going to be really good for brightening. So again, I'm going to look straight into the mirror, my mirrors right here. I'm going to see what is dark still and I'm going to use that to brighten.
Now, I love to add it here too, even though I have crow's feet there, I like having that lift. And as long as we set it with our setting spray, we should be okay for most of the day. And now I'm going to stipple.
So again, we're going to take our setting spray, we're going to wet our brush, and then we're going to push our setting spray into that formula to make sure that it will crease less. I don't want to say it won't crease because when you have as much movement as I do around your eyes, it's going to crease. Okay.
We need to accept it. By 10:00 at night, this is going to be creasing you guys, it's morning right now. By 10 at night there are going to be some creases, but it will be significantly less than if I didn't do that.
Let’s wipe this powder away. I can’t stand it. Now we can leave our natural side if we want, if we're less high maintenance.
But I do want to show you this just to show you. So Tarte shape tape. If you see any more darkness like in here where this hollow is, where the hollow meets the cheek, you can go in and use a heavier concealer.
If that area doesn't have too much movement. So I'm going to apply very strategically a little bit of this heavy duty super coverage concealer right there. Okay.
Avoiding all of this movement there and all of the movement on the upper areas of my eye. And then again, with this precision brush, we stipple. We never rub under the eyes.
Okay? When we were trying to build coverage, we always want to stipple. Now what are we going to do next?
You win an extra bonus Glam Fam point if you put it in the comments section, we're going to. . .
Set, we're going to set. So the next thing that I see a lot of people doing that I think is very unflattering when you have dark circles is use a brown sort of bronzy blush and use it too low on the cheek. So if you already have darkness under the eyes, you don't really want to bring that darkness back.
Now, am I saying you shouldn't wear bronzer? Absolutely not. I love bronzer, but we might want to focus the bronzer in here in the cheekbone, jawline, a little bit on the nose, but you don't want to use this like a blush in the apples of the cheeks.
So I will show you what that does. So if I am to put this blush here and it's low, it's actually going to drag my entire face down. Do you see that?
So all of a sudden everything gets dragged down so much. I was getting ready for a video quickly the other day and I didn't use a bronzy blush, but I used another brush. But I was just doing it so fast.
I wanted to get down here into the studio. I wanted to film. I was limited on time because of the kids and I put my blush too low and you best believe I got comments on it basically being like, What is up with your blush?
And I'm like, It is too low. It just like your face collapses. So if you have those really dark circles, what you can do instead you can apply your blush higher on the cheekbone, right not into the center of the face.
And here's another really good tip. You actually want to use a poppier color. So Maybelline just came up with these Cheek Heat.
They're actually so nice. Hold on. Let me find my brush.
Let me find my brush. So what I like to do with this is I actually apply it on the back of my hand. It has like a gel consistency to it, then swirl your brush to evenly coat it.
And then we want to start it like in this area. So you're still going to get that beautiful flush of color to your cheeks, but you're not going to collapse your face in too much. So you can see the difference here between a lifted cheek and a more like sunken down, collapsed cheek.
And you can also see the difference between a softer, but still bright eye and a really heavily powdered and definitely concealed under eye, but concealed in a complete, completely unnatural way. Let's go look at it in natural light, away from a very flattering soft box. Thank you so much for watching.
If you made it this far, I'd really love to have you as a part of the Glam Fam, so don't forget to subscribe down below before you leave. This video's over.
