How to Build a PC - Full Detailed Build Guide (2024)

You just clicked on the only video you're going to need to watch to help you build your very own PC there is a reason why my last PC build guide is still ranked as the number one build guide on YouTube even after 2 years but you know what a lot has changed in the past 2 years so I'm going to bring you guys an even better and detailed build guide if this is your first time building a PC I am here to tell you that It's going to be completely fine I am going to hold

your hand and guide you step by step from the start all the way until we're finished and after we're done building a PC I'm going to show you guys how to download and install the Windows operating system download and install the drivers enable XMP in the Bios to make sure your memory is running at its Max Speed which improves FPS in games by the way and I'm even going to show you how to optimize Windows to Boost your PC's performance even further and if you run into any problems along the way I'm going to give

you Solutions on what you can do to fix your PC we also have a very helpful section on Discord server called TCH support if you guys need any additional help or questions I'll drop a link to that down below okay first things first here is what you're going to need to build a PC a screwdriver kit any Precision screwdriver kit will work as long as you Have a small Philip set to remove the m.2 SSD shield from the motherboard the one I always use in all of my PC builds is this compact aluminum kit that

comes with all the bits you need for building PCS and any handiwork around the house it also has a magnetic tip which is very important when working with small screws I highly recommend using something like this to prevent your screws from getting lost if you want this exact same model I'll drop a link to it down below a Small tray is also needed to keep all of your screws in place and prevent them from Rolling off the table you can just use a plastic cup or any type of container you have laying around in the

house you're also going to need an empty USB flash drive with at least 8 gigabytes of space because this is what we're going to use to download the Windows operating system on here and then install it on the PC once we're done building it speaking of which you Guys will need an operating system to unlock all of the Windows features and get rid of the nasty watermark on the bottom right you can buy this directly from the Microsoft website but I would avoid paying full price and use a CD key website instead now there are

ton of these that exist online but to ensure you're getting a real key I do recommend using VIP your CD key.com they have all sorts of Keys including Windows 10 pro and Windows 11 Pro as well in fact if You guys use the code ts20 you will get a nice discount after checking out you can click on the user Central page and then click on The View keys to reveal the CD key then all you have to do is copy it and go into your Windows activation settings and put it in but don't worry about

it right now I will help you guys towards the end once we're done building the PC a Wi-Fi adapter is needed only if you don't have access to a second PC or laptop we need access to The internet somehow so that we can download and install the drivers onto the USB drive we can't do that with the PC we are building because by default it doesn't have any of the internet drivers installed so if you don't have a secondary PC you need to pick up a Wi-Fi adapter so that we can plug this into the

PC and have access to the internet to download and install the drivers there's a ton of cheap options on Amazon like this one for $10 that you can buy You can also return it back after your done using it you don't have to keep it obviously building on a flat surface is recommended that way nothing is accidentally rolling off and potentially getting damaged I prefer building on a wood tabletop but if you have some sort of rubber material like a mouse pad I would recommend building on that instead to prevent damages to your case or

PC components and also you can protect your desk at the same time and if you guys Think this build guide is helpful so far and you do want to help support the channel consider buying a mouse pad from our store we have a ton of different design design and if there's nothing that you like you can create your own custom pad instead you can use the mouse pad to help build your PC and after you're done you can use it in your setup so aside from everything we just talked about you're obviously going to need

the actual PC components the CPU the GPU the Motherboard memory storage power supply and the case if your CPU doesn't come with a stock cooler which looks something like this you're going to need an aftermark Market cooler for the build some optional Parts include additional fans RGB products like RGB strips and other miscellaneous items like capture cards and PCI cards which I'll go over later in the video Don't Worry by the way if your parts are not the same as mine in this video you can still follow Along and build your PC because the process

is exactly the same but if you like the look of this system and you want to copy it I'll drop a link to the parts down below so you guys can pick it up okay so now we are ready to build the PC grab your CPU box motherboard memory and storage to start off open your motherboard box and take out the motherboard and remove it from its anti-static bag and place it right on the box don't take out anything else From the box just yet keep it in there for now until we need it later

now you're ready to install the CPU so click on the correct timestamp of the CPU that you're installing so you can skip to that section of the video the only options right now are Intel or AMD by the way you can tell what socket your CPU is using by simply looking at the product box it's always labeled on [Music] there okay so you're installing an Intel CPU Intel CPUs don't have any pins underneath the chip so it's easier to install instead the pins are located in the motherboard socket just like the new am5 platform from

AMD you have two options here you can either install the CPU how it is directly onto the motherboard socket or you can use a a contact frame which helps improve the contact between the cooler and the CPU which will lower your CPU temps either way I'll show you guys how to do both to Install the CPU normally take the CPU out of its plastic cover making sure not to touch the top or bottom of the CPU handle it very carefully from the sides only locate the tiny triangle in the corner of the CPU after that

go ahead and locate the other small triangle on the corner of the motherboard socket because that will determine how we install the CPU the same triangle can be found edged onto the motherboard's PCB after locating both triangles align the CPU so that both triangles are in the same direction using your other hand press down on the latch next to the socket to release the tension and flip over the cover begin to gently lower the CPU onto the socket and watch it fall in place whatever you do do not apply any Force as you can damage

the pins underneath after that you can gently tap it from the side just to make sure that it's fully seated you can easily tell by looking at it from the side and you can Also tell if the CPU was fully seated by The Notches on the CPU itself afterwards slowly lower the latch and feed it underneath the hook to lock the CPU in place it's okay if it feels a little stiff that's completely normal don't freak out the black plastic cover will also pop right off but if it doesn't simply remove it from the cover

if you're installing a retention bracket this is how you do it it otherwise you can skip to the next part which is Memory installing a retention bracket will help with lowering your CPU temps but it might void your warranty so proceed with caution contact frames exist for both am5 and LGA 1700 sockets but I'll show you guys the Intel version since we are installing an Intel CPU right now the contact frame always comes with a tool which is needed to remove the four screws holding down the retention bracket on your motherboard so use the tool

and gently loosen all four Of the screws until you can lift and remove the stock retention bracket after that you can follow the same steps as before to install the CPU after the CPU is fully seated carefully lower the contact frame by aligning all four holes together and simply screw it in one by one in a crisscross pattern until it's nice and snug okay so we are installing an AMD CPU on the am4 socket this means the pins are located behind the CPU so we have to be extra careful with Handling it first make sure

to inspect the pins to make sure that nothing is bent then go ahead and locate the tiny triangle in the corner of the CPU and find that exact same triangle on the CPU socket because we have to match both triangles together using your other hand to Simply lift open the lever slowly lower the CPU with the pins facing down make sure you're holding the CPU from its sides do not apply any force on top of the CPU because you can easily bend The pins it should naturally just fall in place if it doesn't feel free

to wiggle it a little bit so that it does after the CPU is fully seated you can slowly lower the lever back down and lock the CPU in place okay so we're installing an AMD CPU on the am5 socket in this situation the pins are on the motherboard socket instead of underneath the CPU go ahead and locate the triangle on the CPU itself and find that exact same triangle on the CPU socket cover Because we are going to align both of them together carefully press and move the lever away releasing the tension of the bracket

and open the cover while you're holding the CPU on its sides gently lower it down onto the socket make sure not to apply any pressure or Force the CPU down as it can damage the pins on the motherboard after the CPU is fully seated you can slowly lower the lever back down and lock the CPU in place the protective cover should pop Right off but if it doesn't you can simply remove it yourself now if you're installing a contact frame for am5 then listen up if not you can skip over to the next section first

release the retention bracket and use the tool to gently loosen all four of the screws until you can lift and remove the entire bracket after that follow the same steps as listed before to install the CPU carefully once the CPU is fully seated place the contact frame over the CPU and Tighten it with the provided tool and the included screws do not use the old screws because they are a different size okay so you're are one of the very few Elite out there to buy a thread Ripper CPU let's get this this baby installed obviously

you will need the CPU itself but you'll also need the install tool that it comes with it has an orange handle so you can't miss it take your time to gently open the thread Ripper box and slide out the CPU I want you to Enjoy this process because it is a very joyous occasion make sure not to touch the surface of the CPU or the bottom always grab the CPU from the sides notice there are numbers on the socket it indicates the order of opening and closing the socket so to open the socket we will

have to loosen the screws in this exact order order 3 2 and 1 okay we are now ready to install the CPU grab the torque driver and start loosening up the socket in the order indicated we're Going to start from three then move over to two and finally socket number one the socket Will Spring open so don't freak out go ahead and grab both of the blue tabs on the top and pull them up we're also going to remove the gray protective piece that's on the socket now this part is a little tricky you have

to gently slide in the CPU against the rails but make make sure to do it slowly so that it doesn't derail and pop off the bracket here's another angle of the Installation we are starting from the top and slowly sliding the CPU down against the rail once the CPU is safely on the bottom we are ready to lower the CPU down onto the socket while you're holding down on the blue tabs lower the entire CPU down until you hear it click then we can lower the top bracket and as you're holding it down we can

tighten the bracket in place by going backwards remember we did 3 2 1 to open it now we're doing 1 2 2 three to lock it make Sure to tighten each screw all the way until you hear the tool click don't be afraid to use some Force until you hear the click that's it you officially installed a thread Ripper CPU congrats pretty easy so far right now it's time to install the memory most mainstream boards have either two or four dim slots if you're installing four sticks then you just have to Simply fill up all

four slots in any order it does not matter but if you're installing only two then You have to use the correct slots to take advantage of of dual Channel most motherboards will have a diagram stating which slots to install first you can also find that in your motherboard's manual but typically you want to put the memory sticks in slots A2 and B2 if you're looking at the motherboard directly it's going to be the second and fourth dim slots if you're installing only one stick of ram then it doesn't matter where you put it but I

do Recommend using the A2 slot using your pleasure finger gently open the tabs on each corresponding dim slot some motherboards have one tab tab on each slot and some others have two after all the tabs are open Locate and find the gap on your memory stick because we're going to be aligning that with the notch on the dim slot using both of your hands gently lower the RAM sticks evenly so that the groove on the sticks aligns with the notch on the slot and then Proceed to push down on both sides of the memory stick

evenly until it snaps in place if you did this correctly the latches will completely close if they didn't close then then press down on the stick until it's fully seated you should hear a click if you have two sticks then do the same thing for the second memory stick but in the B2 slot okay so now we're ready to install the storage devices I will show you guys how to install an m.2 SSD a traditional 2.5 in SSD and a hard drive but for now we are only doing an m.2 SSD if you're not installing

an m.2 SSD feel free to skip over to the next section if you guys are installing multiple m.2 ssds make sure you're installing the fastest one on the first slot take a look at the read and write speeds on the box to determine which one is the fastest installing the fastest m.2 SSD on the first slot means that your operating system is going to be installed on that drive and it's Going to impact how fast your PC boots it's also going to impact how fast your applications and games load up as well which is why

I recommend putting the fastest drive in the first slot so go ahead and locate the top m.2 SSD slot on your motherboard and in some mid-range and high in boards you will have a heat shield covering it which is completely normal this is where the Precision screwdriver kit that I recommended earlier comes in handy because the Screws for these are always very tiny and you're going to need small bits to remove it start by removing the two screws from the heat shield some motherboards don't have screws and instead use latches like the one featured in

this video so do keep that in mind once the heat shield is removed go ahead and peel the plastic sleeve from the thermal pads right now so that we don't forget to do it later if you look at your m.2 SSD you will see a Small gap on one side we're going to align that Gap with the notch on the m.2 slot on the motherboard and then afterwards gently slide it in just like on the weekend nights depending on the motherboard you will either have to screw in the other end or simply use a latch

system and lock it in place if you have to screw it in you can find the small screw inside the motherboard box so take that out of the bag and install it before covering it back up with the Armor plate now if your m.2 SSD has a built-in heat sink then you have the option of not using the included armor on your motherboard you can just follow the same installation process as before and leave the armor piece out do keep in mind this might look a little weird but if you're okay with how it looks

then you can proceed alternatively you can remove the heat sink usually there are tiny screws on the side that you can unscrew before sliding out the heat sink In some other cases you might have to use a pry bar and detach the heat sink before sliding out the drive luckily the screwdriver kit I mentioned earlier has an included pry bar that can help in this situation if you're installing a second m.2 SSD just repeat the same process for however many drives you're installing and then we can move on to the cooler I will show you

guys how to install four different types of coolers the stock wraith cooler from AMD or Intel the stock wraith prism cooler from select ryzen 7 processors an aftermarket air cooler or a liquid all-in-one cooler but before we jump into that section I'll show you guys how to apply thermal paste if you need it for your build if your CPU Cooler already comes with thermal paste pre-applied you can skip on over to the next section you can easily check this by the way by simply looking underneath your cooler or your pump if you're using an AIO

if you see Any type of gray compound then it means it's already applied for you and we don't need to to add any extra paste simply remove the cap of your thermal paste which is always provided in the box of the CPU Cooler that you have purchased next bring the tip as close as possible to the surface of your CPU while holding it at an angle and begin to gently squeeze out the guts I always prefer drawing a line on the top of the CPU and using a small spatula or a flat Object to spread

the paste I like doing this because it gives me peace of mind that the entire CPU face is covered but if you don't have a spatula it's completely fine you can just do a bunch of tiny dots spaced out evenly which is just as effective in the event that you need to clean a thermal paste off the CPU or the cooler just use 99% isopropyl alcohol dab a little bit of it on one side of a folded paper towel and begin wiping the surface clean filthy to use As many as you need to clean all

the paste off the surface completely okay now it's time to figure out what cooler you're installing and skip over to that section of the video okay we're installing a stock cooler it doesn't matter if it's from AMD or Intel the process is exactly the same start off by removing the cooler from the box making sure not to touch the bottom because that is where the thermal paste is applied figure out the Orientation that you want to install the cooler you only have two options for AMD and they are both vertical if you position the AMD

logo on the right side make sure that it doesn't interfere with the memory sticks if the memory sticks are too tall then you have to rotate the cooler to the other way around so that the logo doesn't interfere with them now that we have figured out the orientation go ahead and remove the two black plastic brackets if you're installing on The am5 socket and make sure to keep these in the motherboard box because they might be useful in the future if you're using an older Intel motherboard you don't have to remove the brackets because it

doesn't have any grab your Intel or AMD cooler and gently lower it down while aligning the four screws with the four holes on the motherboard and once the cooler is sitting on top of the CPU begin to slowly tighten each screw in a Crisscross pattern do not fully tighten each one of them just yet start from the top left and do a single hand turn and move on to the bottom right and do the same thing then move to the top right and then the bottom left and rits and repeat until all four screws are

fully tightened feel free to grab and tug on the cooler gently to make sure it's completely tightened grab the cable coming out of the cooler and plug this into the CPU fan header on the Motherboard which is often located on the top right side you can easily determine which one to plug in because it's labeled CPU Das fan next to the four panes that you need to plug into okay so we're installing the stock wraith prism cooler from AMD this is extremely easy to do because the brackets already pre-installed on all AMD motherboards regardless if

you're using the am4 or the new am5 socket start by removing the cooler from the Box and the plastic covers and make sure not to touch the bottom of the cooler because that is where the thermal paste is applied let's first plug in the two included cables one is for the RGB control which has four small holes and the other is for the USB header which transfers data to the board Begin by peeling out the rubber inserts from the side of the cooler and then proceed to plug in both of the smaller ends of the

cables into the side of the cooler these Only go in one way so you can't mess it up you can either install the cooler with the AMD logo facing towards the top left or flip it upside down I personally prefer upside down because it will be a lot easier to route the two cables coming out of the cooler and keep it hidden the cooler has these retention brackets on the front and the back locate the side that has the lever and make sure that is set to the left position gently lower the cooler down Onto

the CPU while making sure the other side without the lever goes in first and it hooks underneath the brackets on the motherboard then you can slide in the other hook onto the other bracket once both brackets are attached lock the CPU in place by simply moving the lever to the opposite side this will feel tight it's completely normal grab the thick braided cable that looks like this and Route the cable underneath the cooler and upwards towards the top of the Motherboard locate the CPU fan header which is usually located on the top right side and

it's often labeled CPU uncore fan slide it in the four pin header next grab the other two small cables and run it behind the motherboard and out from the bottom if you install the cooler the way I did you should be able to run the cables towards the top and around the vrm heat sink just like this before running it down the back of the motherboard grab the cable that has Four small holes like this which is called the 12vt 4 pin RGB cable and plug it into the 12vt RGB header on the board this

usually has a label that says 12v right next to it it should also have four pins make sure the arrow on the plug is aligned with the first pin you can simply rotate the cable until the arrow is on the far left and then you could slide it in whatever you do do not plug this into the three pin header those are for addressable RGB products Only next grab the USB cable that has the words USB labeled on it and plug that into the USB header on your motherboard which is often located on the bottom

and it's always labeled USB 1 or USB 2 depending on how many USB headers your board has in the event that you run out of USB headers for other products you can always buy a USB adapter which will expand the amount of ports on your board I'll drop a link to this one down below if anyone needs it Anyways with the words facing down plug these in either of your USB headers I'm sure we can all agree that running the cables behind the motherboard looks the cleanest you can install it in the case just like

this by the way without having to unplug anything okay so we are now installing an aftermarket air cooler let's take everything out of its box including the cooler the thermal paste if it has one the bags that have the screws and the brackets and finally the Manual if you're installing on an AMD motherboard you will most likely have to remove the two brackets that are pre-installed on the board if you're installing on an Intel motherboard you have to use the x-shaped bracket instead I would strongly recommend looking at the manual to determine how to set

up the bracket because you can adjust the end points to fit specific socket types by default it usually fits LGI 1150 series sockets but I'm using a 14900 K Processor which is on the LGA 1700 socket so in my case I have to extend the end points all the way out for the LGA 1700 sockets afterwards you can peel off the cover on the adhesive tape if yours have one and flip your motherboard over we simply going to align the X bracket with the four hole holes and insert it in you can apply gentle pressure

making sure the tape grabs onto the back of the motherboard before flipping it over if you don't have any Tape you're going to have to use your hand and hold on to the bracket while you flip the board over now we should all technically be at the same place whether you're installing in an AMD board or Intel all four screw holes should be visible at this time I would recommend looking in the manual to determine what the next step is usually it involves installing a certain type of screw but in my case I have to

add these spacers first most coolers have Everything nicely separated and labeled in bags making it very easy to find the hardware needed if you're installing an AMD cooler you would use the bag labeled either am4 am5 or any of the TR bags for the thread Ripper processor but if you're installing an Intel cooler just make sure to use the bag that corresponds to the socket type for your CPU again you can find the socket type labeled on the motherboard itself and the CPU box after remove the spacers From the bag simply slide one onto each

of the screw hole before we install the bracket again refer to the manual to find out which hole to put the screw through every socket is different after inserting the screw through the bracket gently tighten them all the way through these need to be fully tightened so that the cooler has a nice grip on the CPU after both brackets are installed it's time to connect the heat sink depending on the location of the bracket on the Heat sink you usually can only install this in the vertical orientation if you have a choice I would recommend

this orientation so that we can install the fans in the front for the best cooling performance I don't recommend facing the heat sink down and installing the fans on the bottom or top as this is the least effective configuration once you determine the orientation you want to install the heat sink go ahead and screw it in onto the bracket we just installed Now we ready to hook up the fans normally air coolers come with these thin brackets that attach to the fan if your cooler has only one fan then I recommend attaching it to the

front of the heat sink if you have two fans you can put the second one in the back make sure the face of the fan is facing outwards the face of the fan is where the air is being sucked in from and the best way to remember this is by remembering the phrase faces suck the Face of the fan is the part where the company logo or sticker usually is and the part where the frames and the cables are visible is the back unless your fans are reverse blades reverse blades are usually indicated right on

the fan box and in this case the air flow is reversed which means that the front of the fan is where the air gets blown out of you can also tell by looking at the side of the fans most of the fans have arrows indicating the airflow Direction Speaking of cables make sure the cable is towards the bottom so it's easier to hide and plug into the motherboard so grab the fan and insert one tip of the bracket through the front hole and you can do the same thing for the other Corner if if you

did this correctly this is what it should look like it's completely fine if it's loose it's supposed to be go ahead and do the same thing on the other side of the fan with both brackets installed lower the fan in Front of the heat sink and pull on the bracket until the small part sits on the heat SN fins do the same thing on the other side repeat the same process for however many fans you are installing but once you're done feel free to tug on the cooler to make sure nothing is loose grab the

cable coming out of the fan and plug this into the fan header on your motherboard which is usually located on the top it's always labeled CPU unor fan I like to tuck the exess cable Underneath the cooler so it looks nicer but the choice is yours okay so we're installing an all-in-one cooler but we are only going to do the first half which is prepping the motherboard with the bracket installation before we move everything into the case this is a lot easier for the build go ahead and open the box and remove everything from inside

the manual which will be very handy all the fans unless it's is already attached to the radiator thermal Paste unless it's already pre-applied and the rest of the hardware which includes all the different type of brackets screws and cables I know it might look intimidating with all the different types of Hardware but you are not going to use all of these trust me we're only going to use the ones that are marked for our CPU take a quick look at the manual and determine what Hardware you need to use to install your cooler different socket

types require a Different pump bracket as well as a motherboard bracket in our case we're installing on an LGA 1700 socket so we will need the LGA 1700 pump bracket the LGA 1700 screws and the LJ 1700 mounting bracket which looks like this again if you don't know what socket top your CPU uses you can always look on the CPU box itself or the motherboard if you're installing on an AMD board you would have to remove the two mounting brackets that are pre-installed on your board Otherwise for Intel flip over the motherboard and attach the

mounting bracket on the back you might have to extend the tip so that the screw holes align with the holes in the back of the motherboard and if your mounting bracket doesn't have tape you're going to have to hold on to the bracket with one hand and use the other and flip the board back over making sure the mounting bracket doesn't slide away proceed to hand tighten the Screws into the mounting bracket itself this process is very similar to AMD motherboards okay so at this point we are done with the prepping and you have two

options either continue on with the video so we can hook up the rest of the AIO that way we can test the PC and make sure it works before building in the case which I highly recommend by the way or you can skip to the part where we start building inside the case you made a wise choice young Grasshopper okay so grab the corresponding pump bracket for your socket type and install it onto your pump start off at an angle before inserting it in the pump and then you can rotate it to snap it in

place if you did it correctly the bracket should look like this even on all four sides now let's put the cooler aside and connect the fans if your fans are magnetic simply attach them together and plug in the magnetic cable adapter from the end If they're not magnetic you can just simply lay them on the radiator do not tighten them with the screws because it's not needed right now most aios have a way to connect the radiator to the fans in this case we have two cables to plug in one is a CPU fan header

and the other is for the RGB but yours may vary so please refer to your manual to learn how to connector AIO the fan header cable simply plugs into the female connector from the radiator the three Pin RGB cable plugs into the female three pin RGB connector but make sure to hold is a line and that the arrows match before you do that if your cooler doesn't have any thermal paste pre-applied then go back and watch the thermal paste application segment of the video to learn how to apply thermal paste properly and then you can

come back and resume watching from here the orientation of the pump doesn't matter now because this is temporary until we Test our system system before you do anything else make sure to peel off the sticker underneath your pump then go ahead and grab the head of the pump and slowly lower it down by matching the holes from the bracket to the screws on the mounting bracket look for the bag that has the thumb screw Caps or something similar and remove all four of them while holding down the pump with one hand use your other hand

to screw and tighten the pump bracket the two Longer cables coming out of the pump plug into your motherboard let's grab the USB cable first which looks like this it's got a rectangular shape with nine pin holes we going to plug this into the USB header on the motherboard which is usually on the bottom and it's always labeled USB 1 or two depending on how many your board has align the holes on the cable with the pins on the board and insert it all the way in the second cable is the SATA power cable for

this We are going to take out our power supply and look for the cable that looks like this the Sata cable has an L-shaped connection so make sure to align that with the female cable and plug it in okay so at this point I strongly recommend finishing up the build outside of the case that way we can test it and make sure it turns on without any problems because it'll be so much easier to fix it if we do run into an issue however if you don't want to do it that Way and you are

confident that all the parts work you can skip this section okay so we're going to finish building the PC outside the case first so the next step is going to be the graphics card take that out of the box and remove it from the anti-static bag and also remove all the plastic pieces from the rear ports and the plastic cover from the PCI connector move the motherboard to the edge of the box so that the PCI bracket from the GPU can hang over then Locate the top PCI slot on your motherboard and slowly lower the

GPU into it while making sure the gap on the GPU aligns with the notch on the PCI slot there will be a latch towards the right side that will snap in place once the GPU is fully seated if it's not fully closed that means the GPU is not completely seated so apply some more pressure on the graphics card until you hear it click you can also inspect the PCI slot from an angle to make sure that The GPU is completely seated before moving on now let's hook up the power supply take that out of the

box and remove all the cables from the bag unless your power supply is non-m modular then all the cables are already attached to the unit we're going to start off with the 24 pin cable which is the widest Cable in the kit if your power supply is fully modular take the other end of the 24 pin cable and plug it into the back of the Power supply these usually have two separate connections that are combined into one cable these only go in one specific location in the back of the power supply and the easiest way

to tell is by either looking at the labels above the connectors that usually say motherboard or m/b or by simply counting each connector make sure the clip is facing the correct orientation of the ports before inserting it in and always double check To make sure that the clip is locked in with no gap between the connection if this is not fully seated you might have issues powering on your PC next we're going to plug the head of the 24 pin cable into the 24 pin socket on the motherboard which is often located on the right

side make sure the connector is fully seated and the latch is locked in there should be no gap between a 24 pin head and the socket on the motherboard you might need to apply some Extra Force to snap it in place as this can be slightly stiff next locate the 8 Pin EPS cable which looks something like this these usually come in two separate 8 Pin cables or both 8 Pin cables are attached together like this one in the video you can easily tell what these look like if you look closely you can see that

the connectors are actually split into two separate four pins this gives you the ability to plug into your EPS connectors on your motherboard in Increments of four the EPS connectors are located usually on the top left of your motherboard and there are only four variations a single four pin eight pin dual 8 Pin or one eight pin and one four pin hence why the connectors are split into half so for example this motherboard has a single eight pin and a single four pin so I will need the exact amount of male EPS connectors I'm going

to use a full eight pin and split the second one so that I can plug in the Four pin socket once again if your cables are separated from the power supply find the end of the EPS cables and plug it into the back of the power supply it's usually labeled power supply on the end that you need to connect to the power supply and you can plug these into either the CPU or the PCI section of the power supply these only go in one way so you can't mess it up if you're plugging in two

EPS cables go ahead and plug the second one in as well locate The aps connectors on your motherboard and plug the head of the cables into them while making sure they are fully seated and the clip is locked in place if these cables are not fully seated you might have issues powering on your PC last but not least we have to supply power to the graphics card and here is where things are a bit tricky if you're using an AMD graphics card or an Nvidia graphics card that has PCI connectors that look like this this

is how you plug The cables in but if you're using an Nvidia card with a 12 pin or 16 pin connector I still want you guys to watch this part because it's going to be relevant when we do plug in those cables very soon okay so each graphics card has a specific set of PCI connectors either one two or three sets with a combination of six pin or 8 Pin connectors the more powerful your graphics card is the more connectors you will have so simply count the amount of connectors your GPU is Going to use

in this case the GPU has dual 8 Pin female PCI connectors so we will need dual 8 pin male PC P connectors from the power supply some cables have two PCI connectors attached to a single cable and others have one attached to a single cable although the cable with two connectors attached are always going to be an isore no matter what you do which is why I recommend going with cable extensions which look so much nicer I'll drop a link to these Down below if anyone is interested in picking them up but don't worry too

much about it until we get later in the video okay so once you determined how many PCI connectors you need from the power supply Supply grab them and locate the end of the cables that's usually labeled power supply and we're going to plug those into either the CPU or the PCI section of the power supply if your cable isn't labeled just like mine in the video then that's fine just look for The end of the cable that has a full 8 pin connection without any seams again these only go in one way so it's impossible

to mess it up then we are going to grab the head of the male PCI connectors and plug these into the graphics cards female PCI slots as always ensure that the clip is resting over the Notch and that there is no gap between the connections otherwise you might not get any display from your graphics card okay now if you have an Nvidia 30 series or higher GPU with a 12 pin or a 16 pin connector that looks something like this then you're going to use the included adapter cable unless your power supply comes with a

12 VH power cable included which looks like this it usually has the words 600 W written on the connectors and it has a total of 16 pins if your power supply has this skip over to the next section otherwise continue watching plug the male portion of the connector into the Gravis card making sure the clip sits over the Notch and that there is no gap between the connection the rest of the steps are exactly the same as before when plugging into the PCI connectors just figure out how many connectors your GPU needs by simply counting

each female connector and plugging the Corr responding male connector from the power supply for example mine has three female connections so I have to plug in three male connectors from the power supply This is arguably one of the most atrocious things that Nvidia has invented and it really does ruin the look of your system I strongly recommend buying a PCI Gen 5 cable extension from Amazon which eliminates the need to use the ugly adapter from Nvidia it has a protective shroud on the tip which protects your cable from getting damaged and it comes at really

nice looking cable comes you simply plug in one end into the graphics card and you plug the PCI connectors into the other ends look how much nicer this looks compared to before they come in both white and black Colors by the way and I'll drop a link to them down below okay so we are plugging in the included 12 VH power cable from the power supply if your power supply doesn't come with one of these skip over to the next section these cables go both ways just like my friend Harry grab either end and plug

it into the graphics cards 6 pin slot Making sure it's fully seated and plug the other end into the back of the power supply usually labeled 12 VH power and finally if your cooler requires a SATA cable then we need to plug this into the power supply as well so go ahead and find the cable that looks like this and plug the female cable into the male cable these only go in one way so don't worry about it doing it wrong the other end of the cable has a six pin connection that looks like this

and this Goes into any six pin socket in the back of the power supply usually this is labeled peripheral SATA or Molex it's the only socket in the back of the power supply that has six pins okay so you are done for now we will plug in the rest of the power supply cables later in this video so continue watching this is what your setup should look like if you have a stock cooler installed and this is what it should look like if you have an aiio installed I know it looks extremely Messy but this

is temporary until we finish testing the PC and making sure it boots now locate and find the thick power supply cable which should be inside the bag of the power supply box which looks something like this and we're going to plug the female port into the back of the power supply and the other end goes into your wall outlet make sure to switch the power supply to the on position by flipping the switch in the back to the straight line symbol And finally you do need a monitor and a keyboard for this next step go

ahead and plug your keyboard into the back of the motherboard you can use any of the USB ports that are very ailable now grab your monitor's HDMI or display port cable and plug that into the back of your graphic card make sure you do not plug this into the back of the motherboard otherwise you will get no signal okay now we're ready to power on the PC you're going to need a thin metal Object a screwdriver tip works just as great locate the jfp1 connector on the motherboard which is usually on the bottom right side

they're going to be a total of nine pins four on the top row and five on the bottom row using the tip of the screwdriver we are going to tap both the third and the fourth pin at the same time to do this easily just simply put the tip between both of those pins if you did it correctly the PC will automatically boot now what we're Waiting for here is any type of message on your monitor as soon as it gets signal from your GPU it will display a message like this although yours might be

different depending on the manufacturer of your motherboard this process can take a while I'm talking up to 10 minutes especially if this is your first boot it's completely normal if your PC restarts a few times just let it do its thing mine actually restarted about seven times and this entire Process took about 9 minutes to finally get into the BIOS you can also check out the motherboard's boot status by looking at the section with the LEDs to determine if there's an actual error with any of your components if you see any type of message then

your PC Works immediately tap both of the pins again to shut it up off or you can simply switch off the power supply switch from the back if you don't see a message skip over to the troubleshooting section of The video which is shown on the screen and once you fix the issue you can come back and resume from this point of the video now that you have peace of mind that your PC is working just fine go ahead and disconnect all the power supply cables from the motherboard and let's move on to prepping the

board for the CPU Cooler unless you have already installed if so skip over to the next section all right now we are getting into the fun stuff actually Building Inside of the case first thing you have to do is prep the case before we slide in the motherboard go ahead and remove all the side panels from the case the front panel the top if yours has one and the rear I would keep all the plastic covers on the panels for now until we finish building the PC to avoid accidentally scratching them we move the bag

or the box that has all of your Hardware in it along with the manual for additional help in most cases this is Usually tucked away inside one the hard drive cages let's start off by installing the io shield in the back of the case open your motherboard box and take out the io shield and remove it from its plastic bag most of the nicer looking boards already have this pre-installed in the back of the board so if yours already has one then we can skip this step locate the rectangular cutout in the back of the

case and hold up the I Shield upright so that the text Is facing right side up using your right hand slowly bring the shield towards the cutout from inside the case with the text facing outwards then go ahead and apply pressure on each Corner one by one until it all snaps in place this is probably the hardest part of the entire build so take your time and make sure the entire thing is fully inserted before moving forward next we need to make sure the case has all the proper standoffs installed most high-end cases Have these

pre-installed and ready to go however if yours don't we need to find a bag that has these tiny little hex shaped screws and put them aside this is a good time to place your PC on its side so it's easier for us to install the motherboard first count the number of standoffs installed in the case already it should match the exact amount of holes your motherboard has now if both numbers are the same and they are installed in the correct locations then You can lower the motherboard gently inside while making sure all the holes from

your motherboard line up with the standoffs in the case as you can see mine is missing three standoffs on the as side if yours are missing some too take the motherboard back out and install any additional standoffs in the location that is needed smaller microatx motherboards require less standoffs because the board is Tiny whereas full ATX or eatx boards will need 9 to 10 Standoffs if you look closely most cases will have labels edged near the standoff holes a m i e ATX Micro ATX ITX and extended ATX find the size of your motherboard which

is always written behind the motherboard box and install the standoffs to where it corresponds to your motherboard size so in this case if you're installing an ATX motherboard like I am there should be a standoff next to every hole with the letters a after all the standoffs are installed Grab the motherboard by its sides as you slowly lower it down making sure to align the rear I/O of your motherboard with the cutouts in the io Shield if you have a cooler installed you can use your other hand to grab grab onto the cooler making it

easier to lower the board down in the case you can tell if the motherboard is correctly placed by looking at the holes and making sure you can see the standoffs through each one of them go ahead and grab the box or bag That has all the hardware and look for these small motherboard screws we're going to use these to secure the motherboard to the case you can start from anywhere and begin to screw these in one by one until you are done with all of them this is also the best time to hook up the

front panel connectors because it gets hard when there's a lot of components inside the case so I'd rather get this out of the way right now every case comes with a set of cables Attached these are usually grouped up together with a cable tie and it's located in the back of the case go ahead and untie all the cables and find the USB 3 cable which looks like this sometimes this has a blue tip we're going to plug this into the USB 3 header on the motherboard which is usually on the middle right side and

sometimes it might even be on the bottom depend on the motherboard it will either have the face up or it will be laying on its side Either way we're going to line up the notch on the cable with the gap on the USB 3 header and carefully slide it in these pins can get bent fairly easily if you go in at an angle so be careful when you do this I always recommend lining up the pins first and going straight in now these are a little tight so you might have to use a little Force

some cases have a total of four USB 3 ports if that's the case then you might have two usb3 cables instead of one if yours does Simply plug that in the second USB header on your motherboard if you have one otherwise just leave it in the back of your case the next cable is the USBC cable that looks like this if your case doesn't have a USB type-c port then you most likely won't have a cable like this this one plugs into the onboard USBC port on the motherboard typically located near the USB 3 header

this cable only goes in one way so if you're having trouble putting it in like my ex used to Tell me flip it over to the other side and try it again if your case has a USB cable that looks like this usually with the words USB on it then we need to plug this into one of the USB headers on the motherboard which is always on the bottom middle if your case doesn't have one of these cables you can skip on over to the next section it doesn't matter which one you plug this into

just make sure the text is facing down and insert it in the connector a quick note if you Run out of USB headers on your board for your other devices you can buy a USB header splitter that will expand the number of ports I'll leave a link below to one if you need it the next cable we're going to plug in is the HD audio this is to provide power to the front audio jacks of your PC the audio header is usually on the bottom far left side and it's often labeled J aud1 similar to

the USB cable this one also has nine pins and only PL plugs in one way so Align the pins with the holes on the cable and plug it in all the way this cable is optional but if your case comes with a 5vt 3 pin RGB header cable then it means that you probably have some sort of RGB lighting attached to the case whether it's from an RGB strip or a set of pre-installed RGB fans the cable looks like this with three holes this plugs into any of the three pin RGB headers on your motherboard

this can be found either somewhere near the top or On the bottom if if your motherboard doesn't have a three pin RGB header then you can't plug this Cable in which means you won't be able to control the RGB lights of your case or your fans so align the three holes from the cable with the three pins on the board and slide it in all the way and finally let's hook up these tiny little turds the jfp1 connectors most of the time they are split up into multiple little pieces like this and in other high-end

Cases they are combined into a single connector like this and it's often labeled F pan but the hookup process is the same regardless of what type you have first we're going to locate the jfp1 header on the motherboard which is usually on the bottom right it's also often labeled jfp1 on most boards if you have a high-end board they might be combined with other headers like this but don't be confused we are still only focusing on the first nine pins on the Left side the jfp1 header consists of nine total pins and they are each

labeled right on the motherboard itself and in the manual the top row has four pins and the bottom has five if your front panel connector is all attached to a single connector then just simply align the N pins together and slide it in and you're done but if your case has them individually separated like here in the video then we will have to do this one by one one thing to note is that you Might not have all of these cables some cases only have two While others have more so don't freak out okay let's

start off by grabbing the two tiniest cables the power LED plus and the power LED minus if you look at the labels on the board itself or your motherboard's manual you can see that the power LED plus is the very first pin on the top and the minus is the second pin right next to it so let's start off by grabbing the plus cable and plug this Into the first pin then grab the minus cable and plug that into the second pin next let's do the power switch the power switch goes into the third and

fourth pins from the top right next to the ones we just plugged in so this is how the plugged in cable should look like on the top row so far now let's grab the cable that says HDD LED and plug this into the first and second pin on the bottom row it doesn't matter how you plug this one in but this last one labeled reset Switch doesn't matter how you plug this one in this one goes in a third and fourth pin on the bottom row right next to the HDD LED we just plugged in

make sure the words are are facing down before plugging this in this is how the bottom row should look like if done correctly okay so now that we got the annoying cables out of the way let's finish up plugging in the all-in-one cooler if you already installed your air cooler from before you can skip this Step so in most cases you can install the aiio in one of four locations assuming your case supports it you can put it on the bottom the top or mount it vertically either in the backside if you have a fish

tank Style case or in the front I would avoid putting the radiator on the bottom for several reasons number one it's just not aesthetically pleasing and the tubes might get in the way of the gravis card but more importantly number two your pump will be loud and it Will shorten the lifespan of your AIO you always want the pump to be at the lowest point of the loop and I'll talk more about that later in the video if you want to focus on CP cooling primarily then you should mount it vertically and set the fans

as intake so that fresh air is being pulled from outside the case goes through the radiator and cools the CPU however if you want to focus on cooling the GPU more I would Mount the radiator on the Top bracket it's also arguably one of the best looking orientations for an AO so once you figure out how you want to mount the aiio go ahead and find a bag of short and long screws that came with your cooler box and put them aside because we're going to need these very soon before we decide where to install

the radiator we need to figure out the fan configuration first so the first thing we need to do is attach the fans together if your fans are able to please Refer to the manual as every fan is different for example these Corsair rx20 fans are attached to each other by two connectors on the other hand the orus fans I'm using simply attached together magnetically like so then there is usually a single cable that is attached at the end of the entire fan set and this connects either to a separate controller or they plug directly into

the radiator itself like the orus cooler I'm using in this build again feel free To read the manual if you need more help if you're not connecting any fans together then just continue watching the video we now need to figure out the orientation of the fans and decide if you want to do a push or pull configuration remember we talked about faces suck the face part of the fan is where the air is being sucked in from so if it's facing the right it's sucking air in from the right and blowing it out from the

back additionally the air flow Is labeled on the side of most fans the arrow indicates the direction of the airf flow if it's facing the right then the air is traveling from left to right if we put the fan in front of the radiator this is considered a push configuration air is being pushed through the radiator if the fan is in the back of the radiator it's considered a pull configuration because the air is being pulled through the radiator there's really no major difference on Where you put the fans either in the front or the

back of the radiator it all comes down to maintenance and Aesthetics if you want the fans to be visible put it in the front so that you can see it through the case especially if you're installing the radiator on the top you want to be able to see the beautiful fans from the bottom and not just the ugly radiator fins Additionally you can take this a step further and do a push and pull configuration meaning you can Sandwich the radiator with fans on both sides if you do this make sure the fans are facing the

same direction and that your case is big enough to support such configurations okay so now we are ready to decide where you want to install the AIO so go ahead and decide and skip over to the portion of that video okay so you're installing the radiator on the top of the case good choice start off by removing the top panel of your case to get easy access to The bracket some cases have removable brackets which makes it a lot easier to install the radiator if yours does go ahead and remove that out of the cas

and proceed with the installation if you're installing the fans underneath the radiator or a push configuration we are going to use the long screws so place the radiator flat on the table and align each of the fan holes with the holes on the radiator this is a good time to position the cables towards the Back so that we can easily route them through the back of the case once we install the AO go ahead and screw all the fans onto the radiator [Music] flip it so that the tubes are hanging down and place it underneath

the top bracket and use your other hand to screw in from the top using the smaller screws that came with the cooler only install two screws for the time being one on each opposite corner but do not fully Tighten them you should be able to slide the radiator back and forth you can either have the tube coming down from the right side or the left side it's entirely up to you but most people people like the tubes coming down from the right side as it does look the cleanest we can now skip over to the

next section okay so you decided to install the AIO vertically start off by removing the panel of your case to get easy access to the bracket if you're Installing it in the front remove the front panel and if you're installing it in the back remove the rear panel some cases have removable brackets which makes it a lot easier to install a radiator if yours does go ahead and remove that out of the case and proceed with the installation this is a good time to position the cables towards the back so that we can easily route

them through the back of the case after the installation also make sure the tubes Are at the top here however if you really like the look of the tubes on the bottom and you have space for it by all means do what your heart desires but whatever you do do not put the pump above the top of the radiator otherwise you will damage it and reduce its lifespan the pump section needs to always be underneath the top section of the radiator for example this is not okay the pump in this situation is above the radiator

this is also not Recommended both the pump and the top of the radiator are at the same level and this can also damage the pump and reduce the lifespan this is the only correct way of doing it it doesn't matter how low the pump is compared to the top of the radiator as long as it's visibly underneath it if you're installing the fans closer to the bracket then you might need some help because it's a little tricky to do it as you have to hold onto the radiator and the fans While you somehow manage to

screw it in through the bracket this is why it's a lot easier building en cases with removable brackets but do what you can and hold up the fans against the radiator long enough until you can feed the longer screws through it I recommend installing one in the opposite corners of the radiator first because that should be good enough to hold everything up together until you finish the rest up otherwise if the radiator is is closest To the bracket it's a lot easier to do just simply use the long screws and secure the fans to the

radiator first then you can simply just use one hand and hold up the entire thing against the bracket while you screw it in from the back using the smaller screws a quick reminder here if you're installing the radiar in the back like I have in the video don't forget to flip the fans the other way around if you're going for intake and you're focusing on CPU Cooling okay now we're ready to secure the pump and connect the cable cables whatever you do do not run the pump cables across the vrms it simply looks terrible if

you can route them between the vrms and the memory dim slots there's usually just enough space where you can slide them through this looks much cleaner you can decide what orientation you want to install the pump I personally always have the cables towards the top so it's easier to hide Them but it's entirely up to you in some cases you don't have a choice on the orientation because the screen is already fixed if the pump doesn't reach the CPU feel free to slide the radiator towards the left to create more slack assuming you didn't tighten

the screws if your cooler doesn't have any thermal paste pre-applied and there isn't any on the CPU already you can go back and watch the thermal application section of the video and then come back here to Continue peel the plastic cover underneath the pump if there is one and gently bring the pump closer to the CPU while aligning the four holes from the bracket to the four screws on the mother board as you're holding the pump with one hand begin screwing in the thumb screws with your other hand I would focus on installing only two

for now so that it can hold the pump in place while you focus on screwing in the other two once all four thumb screws are in you Can begin by tightening them in a crisscross pattern until they are all fully tightened then you can go back to the top of the case and finish securing the radiator to the bracket now that we have the cooler installed it's time to plug in the cables I'll go over all the common cables that your cooler usually comes with but if I miss anything I strongly recommend looking at the

liquid cooler manual for additional help the first Common cable is a fan header cable this typically comes out of the pump and it looks like this this plugs into the pump header on your motherboard which is usually near the top right next to the CPU fan header if it's not there check the right side of the board this is often labeled AIO pump you always want to plug the pump of your AIO into the pump header so that it's always running at Max Speed if your motherboard doesn't have one of these you can simply plug

it Into the CPU fan header instead however if you do that we have to go into the BIOS and max out the CPU fan speed write down the timestamp listed on the screen right now so you don't forget it after we finish building the PC this is the first thing we need to do you will also most likely have a USB header cable that looks like this with nine holes and it's usually labeled USB right on the cable this plugs into the USB header on the bottom of your motherboard often labeled Jusb 1 or USB

2 depending on how many you have this only goes in one way but you can usually have the text facing down before inserting it in another cable you might have coming out of your pump or controller is a SATA power cable this is a flat cable with an L-shaped connector this plugs into the female SATA power cable from the the power supply if your power supply is fully modular meaning all the cables are disconnected you can find this cable Right now and plug it in so that you don't forget later in the build process if

your cooler has RGB lights then you probably have an RGB cable connected to your pump or your controller it looks something like this with three open holes this plugs into any 5vt 3 pin RGB header located on your motherboard this can either be somewhere near the top Edge or the bottom edge of your board almost every motherboard has at least one of these make sure to align the Holes on the cable to the pins on the board and slide it in in the event that you run out of RGB headers on the motherboard you would

need to buy a splitter to extend the amount of headers once again I'll drop a link to one I recommend buying for your build and lastly although very outdated some coolers might still use a Molex connection for power it looks something like this and this too comes out of your power supply so if your power supply Cables are separated you can find this cable right now and plug it in don't worry about plugging in the other end just now we'll do that later in the video in some newer components like the corser IQ link lineup

PCI cables are needed to supply power so make sure to plug the necessary cables in from the power supply okay at this point the motherboard is inside the case and you have your cooler installed with all the cables plugged in if there are still Cables not plugged in go back and watch that part of the video again if you're installing any additional fans in your case continue watching the video otherwise if you're sticking with the pre-installed case fans skip to the next section of the video this would be the best time to install the power

supply so go ahead and take that out of the box along with all the cables inside the pouch as well as the thicker power cable if your power supply has all the cables Already plugged in the unit then you can skip over to the next section of the video if your power supply is fully modular or semi modular then continue watching first let's grab the 24 pin ATX cable that looks like this it's hard to miss because this is the biggest cable the end where it splits into two connectors is the end that you need

to plug in the back of the power supply it's usually labeled m/b motherboard or simply 24 pin next grab the EPS cables These will always have8 pin connectors and in most power supplies it's labeled CPU on the end of the cable that plugs in the motherboard if you look closely you can see that these split into dual four pin connectors that's how you can tell that these are EPS cables so grab the opposite end and plug this into any of the ports behind the power supply labeled CPU EPS or pcie the amount of connectors you

need will depend on how many EPS connectors your motherboard has This is usually on the top left of the motherboard so go ahead and count how many holes you see and plug in however many cables you need into the power supply in my case I have dual 8 pin connectors totaling 16 so I will be using two APS cables giving me a total of 16 connectors as well your board might have less now let's plug in the Sata cable only plug this in if you have any devices that require SATA power this can be anything

from liquid coolers to Fan hubs RGB controllers RGB devices and more if you look around and don't see any of your components using this type of cable then we don't have to install it but if you do grab the six pin connector ctor and plug this into any of the ports beyond the power supply that says peripheral SATA or Molex it's the only 6 pin socket in the back of the power supply same thing with the Molex there's a high chance you won't use this because it's outdated but if you have Anything that requires Molex

power then plug the six pin connector into any of the six pin sockets labeled peripheral SATA or Molex and finally the cables for your graphics card this will vary depending on what GPU you are using if you using an Nvidia graphics card that has a 12 pin or 16 pin socket like this and your power supply comes with a PCI Gen 5 cable that looks like this usually with the word 600w written on both connectors then simply plug one end into The back of the power supply labeled 12 VH Power by the way this cable

goes in both ways just like my friend Harry if your power supply doesn't have a PCI Gen 5 cable then we need to plug in the PCI cables Instead This usually usually has the words PCI labeled on the side of the connectors if it doesn't look closely and count the number of connectors these have a total of eight but you can split one into six if you can split it then it's a PCI connector locate your Graphics card and count the number of female PCI connectors your graphics card has because that's the amount that we're

going to need this GPU has dual 8 Pin connectors so I'll need to use a total of 16 if you are forced to use the Nvidia adapter cable then simply count the amount of PCI connectors you need each of these cables have an 8 pin connector so if your adapter has two cables then you need 16 because 8 * 2 is 16 if it has three then you need 24 and So on and so forth so once we determined how many PCI cables we need we can grab the opposite end and plug this into any

of the slots in the back of the power supply labeled PCI or CPU don't worry about plugging this into the graphics card just yet we will do that once we install the gravis card later in the video next go ahead and locate the area where the power supply goes this is usually near the bottom edge of the case you can always tell by where the giant Cutout is located if your case has vents on the bottom then you have to face the fan on the power supply towards the bottom of the case so that it

can pull in fresh air into the power supply if your power supply gets mounted sideways make sure the fan is facing outwards if your case has a removable bracket then take that out first install it in the back of the power supply using the screws that came with the power supply unit after that you can slide the power Supply from the back while feeding the cables through the case then you can tighten the thumb screws in the back securing the power supply if you don't have enough room to do this because a hard drive cage

is in the way then I would suggest relocating the hard drive cage most cases give you the option of moving it over to make room for cables speaking of hard drive cages let's take this time to plug in any additional storage devices that you have first open Your motherboard box and locate these SATA cables you will need one cable for each drive that you're installing I'll be hooking up one hard drive and one SSD so in my case I will need two of these cables look through your case manual and locate the areas where you

can install a hard drive or SSD most cases have trays like this where you can simply slide in the drive without any tools or Hardware but in other cases you will have to screw it in a tray or a bracket so do Keep that in mind in my case the storage drives are near the top I have to remove the dumb screw first before I'm able to slide out the trays your tray might be in a different location entirely but it's really hard to miss in most cases with a power supply shroud it's located right

underneath it so go ahead and select which Drive you're installing and skip over to that part of the video unless you're not installing any extra drives then you can skip to the fan Installation section of video which is listed on the screen so once you determine where you want to install your hard drive go ahead and pull out the tray if it's tooless you just simply need to align the pegs on the sides with the holes on the hard drive bringing the hard drive at an angle while making sure all the pegs slide fully inside

if you're good at getting pegged this should be a breeze also make sure the ports are facing towards the back of the Tray this will make it easy to plug in the cables once it's inside the case if you need to secure the drive to a tray then simply line up the holes in the tray with the holes on the hard drive before screwing them in you can find these small screws in the hardware container that your case came with repeat this process for however many drives you're installing after you're done you can slide these

back into the case if you're installing an SSD keep Watching otherwise skip over to the next section of the video okay so you want to install an SSD once you determine where you want to install your SSD go ahead and pull out the tray and locate these tiny screws from the case Hardware bag lay the SSD on the tray while aligning the holes from the tray with the holes underneath the SSD and make sure the ports are facing the back before you screw them in after you're done installing all of your ssds slide the Tray

back in the case if applicable now let's finish plugging in all of your storage devices if you didn't install an SSD or hard drive skip over to the next section of the video we're going to plug in the SATA data cable first so grab this cable that came with your mother motherboard and plug one end into the smaller port in the back of either your hard drive or your SSD the connections are the same on both of these drives these also have an L Type connection so Make sure both ends line up together before inserting

them in an easier way to remember this is that the clip should always face towards the top of the drive the other end of the SATA data cable has to be plugged into one of these SATA ports from the motherboard this is usually located on the bottom right side next cable we need to plug in is the SATA power cable that looks like this plug this one right next to the other cable we just plugged in and again these Only go in one way so if it doesn't go in the first time flip it over

and try again make sure both cables are fully seated if the other end isn't connected to the power supply do so now the end of the SATA power cable plugs into any of the six ports in the back of the power supply repeat this step for however many drives or ssds you're installing if if you're not installing any additional fans in your case you can skip to the next section if you are installing fans Continue watching the video so there are three types of air pressure in your case positive pressure is when you have more

air going into the case than you have going out negative pressure is when you have more air leaving the case than going in and neutral pressure is having the same amount of air going in and out ideally you want to always strive for neutral pressure if your case is designed in a way where neutral pressure is impossible then you should try and go For positive pressure instead negative pressure is not what we want before we install the fans we need to know how air flow works on a fan remember the phrase faces suck the face

of the fan often with a logo or the sticker is where the air goes in first so if the face is on the right the air is being pushed in from the right and out from the left most fans also have a small triangle on the side indic the direction of the air flow and then there are fans out there With reversed blades which have the airflow reversed if you have a reversed fan it means the air is being blown in from the back and out the front this is especially important if you want the

fan set as intake and still look good at the same time for example putting reverse fans on the bottom of your case means that they will pull in fresh air from underneath the case and still look good doing it also before you install any fans you always want to make sure the Fan cable is facing towards the back of the case so that you can easily route it through the grommets if your case only has one fan I would recommend putting it in the front of the case directly in front of the GPU so somewhere

near the middle to provide the best possible airf flow for your graphics card for two fans I would put one as intake in the front and one either in the rear or the top of the case for three fans I would do two intake and one exhaust either in the top Or rear for four fans it's really simple two for intake and two for exhaust for five fans I would put three for intake and two for exhaust but if you don't have any space to add three fans in the front consider putting one on the

bottom of the case if you have space for it otherwise it's not the end of the world if you have one extra fan for exhaust so in this case you will have slightly more negative pressure but it's not going to make a huge difference six fans is the Easiest because you can do three intake and three exhaust typically if you have a 360 M AIO you would put that either in the front or the top and then you would just offset that with three fans so if you have the fans on the radiator set as

exhaust then you would just do three fans in the front for intake if you don't have a radiator just put three fans on the top and then three fans in the front I would avoid going with seven fans because once again you are put in An awkward spot if you have three in the front for intake three on the top for exhaust then the last fan in the rear would give you negative pressure if you must have seven fans then go for it it's not a big deal but if you have a really big tower

that can fit quadruple 120 mm fans in the front I would just add three more fans up top for exhaust and you're done most mid-range cases can fit eight fans or more so if you're in this territory you are most likely Building Inside of a big tower you can do three intake in the front three exhaust on the top and split the last two fans you can do one intake on the bottom and one exhaust on the rear I personally personally hate going with uneven fan configurations like this because aesthetically it just doesn't look good

I always strive to fill up every single fan slot in the case and balance out the pressure if you have the space for it I would do four intake and four exhaust Nine fans is also very awkward because it's not an even number but this is actually one of the most used inish tank cases like the o1 from leam Lee or the corser 6500 X that I'm building in I've seen a lot of people do exhaust on both the side and the bottom giving you negative pressure you definitely want to avoid that especially in this

case most popular configuration is three intake on the front or in this case the side three more intake on the bottom and three Exhaust on the top this will give you noticeably more positive pressure which is what you want compared to negative pressure 10 bands is very easy the same configuration as before but with one more exhaust fan in the rear balancing out the air pressure at this point you get the idea just follow the same methodology for installing 11 fans or more remember you can always do a push and pull configuration if you want

granted your case can support it of Course in my case I'm going with three intake on the bottom three intake on the side and three exhaust on the top so I'm aiming for a slightly more positive pressure which is completely normal in a fish tank case so after you installed all your fans it's time to plug them in your motherboard if these are individual fans without any special type of connection like the orus fans in this video then you should see either one or two cables attached to each fan one is a Fan header cable

that looks like this either with three or four holes and the second one will be a three pin RGB header cable if your fan has RGB lights go ahead and start plugging the fan cables of your fans into any of the fan headers on the motherboard except the CPU fan this is dedicated to the fan that's cooling your CPU like a stock cooler after market cooler or an all-in-one cooler if your CPU Cooler has multiple fans attached to it you most Likely can daisy chain them together using the fan splitter that it comes with and

you can plug the fan s splitter directly into the CPU fan header I would avoid plugging your case fans into the aiio pump header because you're not able to control the speeds as it will always run at Max Speed you would have to go into the BIOS and set a custom fan curve to achieve the same behavior so I would just avoid this altogether if you plug in in multiple fans and you run out of Fan headers on your motherboard which is extremely common I strongly recommend buying a Fan Hub to make your job a

lot easier this way you can just plug all of your fans into one device and then plug that one fan cable from that device into any of the fan headers on the motherboard I'll leave a link to a good quality but affordable fan header below if anyone wants to check it out if your fans have an RGB cable that looks like this usually with three holes then we Have to plug this into the 5vt 3 pin argb header on the motherboard most boards usually have at least one of these headers usually on the top right

or somewhere on the bottom if your motherboard doesn't have a three pin argb header you can't plug these in and your only two options is either to buy a board that does come with a three pen argb header or buy an argb Fan Hub like this Cooler Master One okay so grab your three Pin cable and plug it into any Argb fan header on your motherboard make sure you're plugging this into the three pin header and not the four pin align the holes and the pins together and simply insert it in if you do run

out of argb headers and you can't daisy chain them together then you will need to buy an AR argb Fan Hub to extend the amount of ports however if your fans can be Daisy chained together then you don't need any additional hubs like the fans I'm showing here you can see both female And male connections for both the argb header cable and the fan header cable this means you can daisy chain all the fans together without a controller to make this super super simple for you guys just start with two fans First grab the female

RGB cable from the first fan and plug this into the male RGB cable from the second fan do the same thing for the male fan cable plug this into the female cable on the second fan now you have daisy chain two fans together If you need to connect a third fan just repeat the same process after you are done you should be left with one male fan header cable and one female argb header cable assuming your fan has RGB of course you would then just have to plug these into the corresponding headers on your motherboard

now if you can't daisy chain fans together you can buy these fan splitter cables instead and just plug in all of your fans into it and then plug the end of that into Any of your motherboard's fan headers if you guys want to grab one of these cables I'll drop a link to it down below now for those who buy a triple fan pack like this one from Asus you will most likely get a fan controller in there already AOW you to easily plug all the fans into the Hub itself and then just plug the

controller cables into the corresponding motherboard connectors do keep in mind most controllers require additional power either from SATA Molex Or in some newer stuff like the corer IQ I link products PCI cables are needed to supply power so make sure to plug the necessary cables in from the power supply okay we are reaching the end of the build guide you guys are doing exceptionally well hanging there it's time to finish connecting the rest of the power supply cables to your motherboard we can start off with the EPS cables so grab the end of the power

supply cables that have 8 Pin connectors Like this and plug it into the EPS connectors on your motherboard which is usually located on the top left you can tell which ones are APS by the seam in the middle you can split these cables in half if your motherboard has additional four pin sockets you technically don't need to plug in both of the EPS cables if your motherboard has more than one connector there you just need to plug in the first one the second one will just provide additional power to the CPU Socket if you plan

on doing any overclocking if you have the cables for it I always recommend plugging them in make sure the clip sits over the lip and that there is no gap between the connection otherwise your PC will have trouble booting up next grab the 24 pin ATX cable that looks like this and run it through the closest Gromit in the case and plug it into the 24 pin connector often located on the right side again make sure it's fully seated To avoid booting problems if you picked up some nice cable extensions now is the best time

to plug them in just plug the male into the female connections and plug the extension cable into the motherboard's 24 pin socket look how much nicer this looks links below if you guys want to pick one up for your build the last cable left should be the graphis card in this case we're just going to grab the end of it and pass it through the closest grommet in the case And pull it out from the front so we can easily plug it in in after we install the graphics card once again if you're installing extension

cables go ahead and hook those up now before we install the graphic card this would be the best time to double check all the cables in the back of your PC there shouldn't be a single loose cable except for the GPU of course if you do find one go ahead and plug it in where it belongs if you're lost and you don't know where it goes go Back and watch the cable portion of the video again okay if you're installing a vertical GPU bracket go ahead and take out everything from the box otherwise skip over

to the next section of the video every case has a different method but usually you would have to remove the PCI brackets in the back first slide in the vertical bracket and screw it in from the side using the case thumb screws after that grab the PCI Riser cable and install the female slot on the Bracket using the included screws the vertical GPU brackets usually have extra mounting holes giving you the option of deciding how close you want the GPU to the side panel so you can adjust this if you want then grab the mail

end of the Riser cable and plug it in the top PCI slot of your motherboard make sure it's fully seated until the tab Clicks in place otherwise you will have issues getting display from your GPU then to install The graphic card you would have to remove the amount of PCI brackets in the back that corresponds with the size of the io bracket of your GPU in other words if your GPU is a two slot card then remove two brackets if it was a three slot card then you would have to remove three of them proceed

to gently slide the GPU inside the female PCI slot until the tab locks in place then you can tight in the GPU by screwing in through the PCI bracket in the back grab The GPU cable that we fed through the case earlier in the video and plug it into the graphic card make sure this is fully seated otherwise you might have issues getting display from the GPU okay before we install the GPU this is a good time to install all of your PCI extension cards if you have any this can be a Wi-Fi adapter an

Elgato capture card or anything that uses a PCI slot on your motherboard if your PCI card uses a buy4 interface then it has a very short Connector like this one you can plug these into any of the PCI slots in your motherboard but if you have any available by4 slots then I would recommend plugging it in there instead trace the slot on the motherboard towards the back of the case and go ahead and remove the PCI bracket that corresponds with that slot grabbing the PCI card by its sides gently inserted in all the way there

is no locking tab here so just make sure that the card is fully Inserted finally it's time to plug in the gravis card figure out how many PCI brackets you need to remove from the back of the case in order to fit your GPU an easy way to figure this out is by holding the GPU against the top PCI slot and seeing how many slots it takes up then you can proceed to remove the dump screws releasing the brackets you can store the brackets away safely in the motherboard box or the graphics card box in

the event you sell your case or Downgrade your GPU some budget cases might have snap off PCI brackets instead if that's the case simply push out the bracket from the inside and vice versa from the outside until the bracket gets loose enough where it snaps off I always recommend installing the GPU on the top PCI slot to take advantage of the extra performance hold your GPU firmly with one hand and use your other hand to hold onto the case to prevent it from tipping over slowly move the GPU towards the top PCI slot make sure

that both the male PCI interface and the female PCI slot are aligned before you push in the GPU in place you should hear the locking mechanism snap in place if it doesn't apply more Force until you do or until the tab is locked in place grab the thumb screws that you removed earlier and use them to secure the GPU in place and finally grab the GPU cables that we fed through the case earlier and plug them in make sure the clip sits over the Much and that there is no gap between the connection you did

it you finally finished building your PC pat yourself on the back because you deserve it but we're not done just yet we still have to finish setting it up so before we power on your PC we need to download the Windows operating system on the drive so use another PC that has access to the internet and plug in the empty USB drive into it then visit the Microsoft software download page which I will link Below and select what operating system you want to install to your PC I'm installing Windows 11 so I will click on

the Windows 11 box after that we are going to select the second option to create Windows 11 installation media and download the file after it's downloaded go ahead and open it up and follow the onscreen instructions it will tell you to select your drive a key thing to note here is that the drive has to be empty before the installation otherwise you Will get an error message halfway through the installation so make sure the drive is formatted before you start the installation this process can take up to 20 minutes depending on your internet speed so

just let it do its thing and once it's complete just hit the Finish button and eject the USB drive okay now we are ready to power on the PC so start plugging in all the power cables locate the thick power supply cable and plug that into the back Of the power supply unit and switch it on if you have a Wi-Fi extender for your motherboard go ahead and plug that in as well if you don't have one plug in your Wi-Fi adapter instead so we can get access to the internet if your PC is close

by to your router you can also hardwire into it using an ethernet cable but do keep in mind you probably won't be able to connect to the internet this way until we install the drivers but some high-end motherboards actually let You connect without any drivers unfortunately the only way you can find out is by continuing with the Windows operating system installed okay let's hook up your profs next and your monitor use any of the available USB ports in the back of the motherboard and plug in your mouse and keyboard take this time to also plug

the Windows installation USB drive into the back of your PC take your HDMI or display port cable from your monitor and plug that into the back Of the graphics card do not plug this in the back of the motherboard make sure it goes in behind the GPU hit the power button on your PC and wait for any type of message displayed on your monitor usually is a notification stating that a new CPU is installed but regard regardless of what message it is it will tell you to press a certain key on your keyboard to enter

setup or the bios so go ahead and press that key to enter Bios if you're not getting any type of Display on your monitor then there is something wrong go ahead and skip over to the troubleshooting section in the video and after you find the fix come back and continue watching from here the first thing we're going to do is change the CPU fan speed only if you have your aiio pump plugged into the CPU fan header if you didn't plug your AO pump into the CPU fan header you can skip over to the windows

11 installation so go into the fan settings of your bios Usually you can find that option right on the main menu if you don't it's usually in the hardware monitor category but if all else fails you can always search for it using magnifying glass once you're in here find the CPU fan option and set the fan speed control to Max this will ensure that your pump is always running at Max Speed once again only do this if you plugged in your aiio pump cable into the C PE fan header on your motherboard instead of the

AO pump Header hit f 10 to save your changes and restart your PC as your PC is powering on or restarting it should automatically detect the USB drive with the Windows installation files and it will take you to the beginning of the installation process if your PC doesn't take you to the screen and it kicks you back into the BIOS then it means it didn't detect the drive so go ahead and skip over to the troubleshooting section of the video and once you find the fix come back and Continue watching from here simply follow the

onscreen prompts to install the operating system onto your PC on the active Windows prompt this is where you have to put in your Windows CD key that we picked up from before if you didn't grab one yet it's fine you can do it now or simply skip the section and do it later in the video by clicking on the I don't have a product key this next section is very important you have to select the correct operating system that Matches the CD key that you purchased or plan to purchase if you remember I purchased a

window window 11 Pro key so I will select the windows 11 Pro from this menu if you select a wrong version you will have issues installing Windows go ahead and click on next accept the license terms and on this page we are going to select the second custom option which will take us to the page where we can see all of our drives that are installed so we installed a 2 TB m.2 SSD Which is labeled drive 1 and a secondary 256 GB SSD which is listed as Drive zero you can you also tell which

Drive is which by looking at the total size if your drive isn't listed on here then there's an issue with the connection go back and make sure all the cables are plugged in correctly and if you're still having issues skip to the troubleshooting section video for more help I always recommend selecting your fastest drive for your operating system In my case it's my 2 TB m.2 SSD because it has the fastest read and right speeds so once you select your drive let Windows do its thing and install the operating system this this process can take

a while so you can leave and grab a snack if you like after it's done installing Windows it will restart your PC so at this point you can remove the USB drive from the back while it restarts and continues the installation process once again just follow the Prompts on your screen until you get to this page where it asks you to connect to a network if you see an Ethernet option on the screen then that means your PC can connect to the internet through an Ethernet cable so plug that into your PC and continue with

the setup process if you don't see any internet options then you would have to plug in your Wi-Fi adapter that I recommended earlier in the video Once that's plugged in you have the option to connect to Wi-Fi so once you connected to the internet continue with the setup process your PC might restart a few times during the entire process which is completely normal after all the restarts it should take you to this page where it will continue updating this process can take a while up to an hour depending on your internet speed so after the

update and a few restarts later it will finally take you to the Windows desktop the first thing we have to do here is download the Drivers most manufacturers will send you a notification on the bottom right corner as soon as you're connected to the internet asking you to download their software which has all the drivers since I'm using a gigabyte motherboard I will be downloading the gigabyte control center if you don't get any type of notification here you can always go into your motherboard's website and download it straight from there for orus and gigabyte motherboards

it's called Gigabyte control center for MSI it's called MSI Center and for Asus it's called Armory crate I'll drop a link to all of these down below for anyone interested to be clear you don't have to download this software to install the drivers you can also visit the motherboard website and download the drivers from the support section so in my build I'm using the gigabyte z790 ORS Pro X so then I would click on the support page select my model and then Pick and choose what drivers to install ideally these are the drivers you should

always install on your PC the audio driver the chipset driver and any additional firware needed the land drive for your specific operating system the Bluetooth driver if you want Bluetooth connection and the Wi-Fi driver is an absolute must I personally like downloading the entire software because I have access to everything right here in the app I can also pick and choose What drivers to install and it will automatically do it without having to open up multiple windows also I can control the RGB lights adjust the fan speeds and other useful stuff all in the same

app so it's entirely up to you how you want to install the drivers so once all the drivers are installed and you restart your PC it's time to activate Windows if you haven't already visit any CD key website you want and purchase a Windows key I recommend VIP your CD key Because they are the cheapest and you get your keys within a minute go ahead and search for the Windows operating system you installed on your PC in my case it's Windows 11 Pro but they do sell Windows 10 Keys as well don't forget to use

the code ts20 to get your discount before checking out afterwards click on the user Center option on the bottom which will take you to your orders page and then find the key you just purchased and click on The View Keys button to reveal the key to Simply copy and paste this and tap on the Windows button on your keyboard to open up the search bar type in activate and select the activation settings over here we can select change so we can change the product key and simply paste the new CD key here and hit activate

and you're done you now have full access to all of Windows features like changing the theme if you installed an extra storage device let's go ahead and activate them Otherwise you can skip to the next section hit the Windows button on your keyboard and type in disk then go ahead and select create and format hard disk partitions this will bring up all your devices that are plugged into your PC if your drive is missing go ahead and watch that section of the video again to make sure all the cables are plugged in and if they

are all plugged in watch the troubleshooting section instead and come back and continue from here by default Only your primary drive will show up in Windows Explorer the drives that are not activated are labeled unallocated and it will usually have a black border like you see here we're going to click on the unallocated drive and select new simple volume and just follow the prompts on the screen over here you can assign a drive letter if you want and on the next few pages you can change the volume name if you desire once you're done and

hit the Finish button the black bar will Turn turn blue and the drive should show up let's take this time to change a few settings of Windows first thing we have to do is set your refresh rate of the monitor by default this is set to 60 Herz out of the box especially if you have a fresh install of Windows right click on the desktop and click on display then scroll down and select Advanced display make sure you set the highest refresh rate possible for your monitor and just hit accept changes Let's also adjust the

power plan and a few other taskbar settings so go ahead and right click the task bar and go into the taskbar settings disable the annoying search bar and remove any of the features you don't plan on using hit the Windows button again and type in power plan and select choose a power plan make sure to set this at high performance or in some cases if you have the ultimate performance select that instead we can use this time to install Our GPU drivers if you have an Nvidia graphics card you're going to download and install GeForce

experience which I'll link down below once you open the app it will automat Ally download the correct drivers for your GPU if you have an AMD CPU or GPU then you need to download the AMD radon software instead once again I will leave a link to it down below but once you're here just click on the download drivers button for whatever operating system you are using And once you open the program it will do the rest okay now it's time to enable XMP to make sure your RAM is running at its Max Speed which will

improve your frame rates in games restart your PC and hit the delete key repeatedly until you get into the BIOS once you're into the BIOS we're going to switch to the advanced menu so we can find the tweaker tab which is sometimes called overclocking scroll down until we find the extreme memory profile option or XMP For short and we're simply going to just enable it this will overclock your memory to its default frequency so in my case it is set to 6400 MHz then we're going to hit F10 to save changes and go back to

the desktop let's go ahead and confirm this by right clicking on the taskar going into the task manager settings then click on the performance Tab and select memory you should see the current speed of your memory on the bottom right side if it matches the Frequency of your XMP then it was successful if your PC is having issues rebooting or you don't have any display output to your monitor skip to the troubleshooting section in this video however if your PC does boot but ends up crashing on idle or while you're gaming after enabling XMP then

it means your memory is not on the qvl of your motherboard meaning it's it's not compatible and you might experience some instabilities if this happens you need To go back into the BIOS and underclock the memory by 100 MHz so for example we are currently set to 6,400 MHz on our memory I'm going to Simply go down to 6300 MHz instead then I'm going to save changes and reboot I'm going to repeat this process until my PC doesn't crash and it's stable while gaming if you can play a full game without your system crashing then

you are pretty much in the clear but but if your system keeps crashing no matter what frequency you Set the memory at then it's best that you keep the XMP disabled in the Bios and try again with another pair of memory sticks later in the future and finally if you want to add a few extra frames to your games and have Windows run buttery smooth let's go and optimize it first thing we're going to do is hit the Windows button and type in Game Bar to bring up the Xbox game bar this is notorious for

eating up resources in the background make sure to disable this Speaking of Game Bar let's go back into the previous window by clicking on gaming and make sure all of these options are set to off so that Windows doesn't eat up any resources go back into the task manager and select startup apps we're going to disable all the apps you don't want Windows to load when you first boot your PC as this takes up additional resources obviously this is a new pc so the list will be extremely short but do remind yourself to do this

After a few months once you start downloading a bunch of programs because by default Windows will load them every time you boot next hit the Windows button on your keyboard again and type in Ms config to bring up the system configuration navigate to the services Tab and hide all of the Microsoft Services then go ahead and select which Services you don't want Windows to run in the background again this list might be very small because you just built a New pc so just remind yourself to come back here in a few months you can always

bookmark this video as a reminder if you don't use one drive I strongly recommend you to unlink it from your PC click on the one drive icon on the lower right side and click on the settings button then go into the settings simply click on unlink this PC so that one drive will stop running in the background game mode has been proven to increase your FPS in some games and I highly recommend Enabling this feature hit the Windows button and type in game mode and go into the game mode settings and enable game mode all

right now you're officially done building your very first PC it's running buttery smooth and it looks spectacular go ahead and celebrate by peing off the protective plastic if this build guide was at all helpful to you guys consider tossing a like before you head out thanks for watching and I'll see you guys very soon in the next One well it seems like you're one of the few unfortunate people to reach this part of the video but don't worry we're going to get your PC up and running in no time let's start with the issue of

no screen when you first hit the power button all of your lights are on the fans are spinning but you get no display to your monitor start by double checking the cables plugged in the back of your p PC and your monitor make sure the HDMI or display port cables are fully seated Try a different cable if you're using an HDMI switch to a display port cable or vice versa I've had many instances in the past where I would get no display to my monitor using an HDMI cable and when I switched over to a

display port cable it automatically worked for some reason most monitors automatically detect which Port you are using and we'll switch to that Port but if yours doesn't manually switch the inputs using the OSD menu let's check the cables inside of your PC We got to make sure all the important cables are plugged in from the GPU the motherboard's 24 pin cable and the EPS connectors up top if it's not fully seated you might have issues getting display if your power supply is fully modular make sure the other end of the cables are plugged in all

the way this might be a little tough to do now since the power suppli is already installed but if you can somehow reach the cables double check them let's do a quick power Drain turn off your PC by by pressing or holding down the power button remove the power supply cable from the back and press and hold the power button until you hear the system click or until the lights go out we are draining the static power from the PC which is kind of like a slap in the face for the PC to get it

together and have a fresh boot plug the power supply Cable in and Power on the system if that doesn't do anything let's try reating the ram power off your PC and simply remove all of your memory sticks and reinstall them then power on your PC again we can also take this time to test each individual stick separately so install one memory stick back inside the motherboard and do the exact same test rinse and repeat for the other stick as well resetting the camos usually fixes most problems on most High boards you will have a clear

camos button on the back of the motherboard while your PC is powered off click on The clear couse button try powering the PC on again if your motherboard doesn't have a CMOS button then you have to reset it manually every motherboard has a circular camos battery often located near the bottom half of the board in some other boards it might be located underneath a heat shield just simply use your fingernail to press down on the tab to pop out the battery leave it off for about 2 minutes before putting it back in and powering back

on your PC if You're using a riser cable because you mounted your GPU vertically make sure the Riser cable is the correct gen if you're using a third gen motherboard and graphics card you need to use a gen 3 Riser cable but if you're using a Gen 4 card and motherboard then you will need a Gen 4 Riser cable instead okay at this point there's something wrong with your Hardware or your BIOS version maybe you installed a newer CPU on an older motherboard and it doesn't support it in This case I recommend doing a bios

flash to get your motherboard updated to the most recent version you can find the BIOS file on your motherboard's website underneath the support Tab and the BIOS section download the BIOS file onto to any empty flash drive and plug the flash drive into the USB port in the back of your motherboard labeled specifically for the BIOS flash make sure your PC is powered off but the power supply switch is set to on then simply hit the flash Button in the back of your motherboard the light should blink indicating that it's in the process of updating

the BIOS do not remove the USB drive until the light either goes out or stops blinking this should fix your issue if it doesn't gently grab your PC and chck it out out the window and start over I'm kidding there's probably a hardware issue with your PC especially if you didn't test the components outside of the case like I recommended earlier in the video if That's the case I strongly recommend watching my troubleshooting video which I will link below I go more in depth on the testing process to figure out what the issue is okay

so your PC is now recognizing the USB drive that you plugged in the back of the motherboard and it's constantly kicking you back to the BIOS the first thing I would do is try a different port in the back if that doesn't work restart your PC and hit the boot menu button on your keyboard it Varies on all motherboards on orus boards for example it's F12 so once you get into the boot menu you can manually select which drive you want to boot from and you should see something that says Windows boot manager go ahead

and select that drive and hit the enter key on your keyboard and it will take you to the Windows installation page if your drive doesn't show up then you most likely download the files incorrectly or the drive is corrupt I would format it and Redownload the windows files again if your storage Drive doesn't show up on the partitions page then I would double check and make sure all the cables are plugged in and if that doesn't help I would try a different SATA port on your motherboard some ports are disabled when you use the top

m.2 SSD slot so in this case I would try any of the bottom ones I hope this build guide was helpful to some of you if it was maybe consider tossing a like as it took me a full Month to get this up and running if you guys need more help with your system consider joining my Discord server using my link down below and post your problem in the tech support Channel either myself or someone more knowledgeable will reach out and help you guys out I hope this build guide was helpful to you thank you

guys so much for watching and I'll see you very soon in the next one