so great one for you today I'm going to show you how you can easily upgrade your wardrobe by teaching you everything you need to know about the waste coat so viewers of this channel are probably aware that I'm a fan of the waste coats it's rare if I'm not wearing a double breasted that I'm not wearing a waist coat either a matching one or a separate one with my single breasted jacket since I've had my suits made over 30 years ago I've always chosen to get a matching was coat with my suits the original reason
was is I wanted to get maximum wear out of them and I always felt that having a separate waste coat gave the suit a completely different look so with a limited budget I thought I had a suit which would be good for smarter occasions weddings perhaps but also an everyday business suit and I still have that to this day till my customers always consider the matching waste coat but early on in my Men's Wear journey I started to notice some well-dressed men and people in magazines wearing separate color waste coats of their suits and I
thought it was really smart I really like waste coats in the sense that if you're in a an environment where you need to take your jacket off if perhaps on the shop floor and moving things around it just meant that when you take your jacket off I still I still felt dressed and still well put together I just felt it keeps things really tidy I enjoyed the way it keeps a tie in place it keeps the shirt tucked in it just looks smarter to my eyes so this is a very simple and elegant uh waist
coat uh single breasted uh with six buttons and no lapels so if you're looking to sort of build a wardrobe and start Classic this is a really good place to start this is a double Wy waste coat and also something I've only probably done in the last few years this is actually a waste coat from another threepiece suit which I now use the waste coat as an odd waste coat it's a hounds tooth uh black and cream uh Woolen check but going with style it's double breasted and the main difference you'll find although we'll cover
this later is that double breasted waist coats are cut straight along the bottom and single breasted waist coats are cut with a curve in very much the same way that double breasted Jacket versus single breasty jacket has that same uh differentiation what I enjoy about doubley waste coats though is although they're fussy and there's not more going on when the jacket is actually closed or done up the buttons and most of the detail are hidden away so I quite like the fact that even though there's more going on it does give actually an overall quite
a clean appearance now fit is key with a waste coat the great thing about them as well though is that they can be altered to quite an extent because they usually have a lining back a good tailor can take the whole line off the back and then completely refit it for you not a cheap alteration but if you find something perhaps vintage or something in a sale you really like as long as it's not too small for you it's quite an easy alteration to make smaller typical waist Coes will have a buckle and strap at
the back so if it's a little bit loose on the waist that can always be tugged in to fit a little bit trimmer so they are quite easy to alter and whilst you don't want a baggy waste coat they shouldn't be tight they should be close to the body but not constrictive the pears just like your jacket the pills should lie flat on your chest without bowing and it's really important you get the length right they should be long enough to cover your trousers you don't want any shirt showing at the front that looks very
untidy but it shouldn't be so long as to throw your body proportions out so it makes you look like you an extra long body and it throws out the balance of the trouser you must wear them with at least a good medium to highrise trouser the higher the trouser it means the waist coat can sit into the waist and not over the hips so again wear them with higher waisted trousers they can work with pleated or flat front trousers although I often find the pleat the extra bit of fullness means the waste got something to
sit into so consider pleat consider higher wasted avoid wearing belts having an extra layer around your waist means the waist has to sit above it and it can look quite cumbersome so either have them side adjusters or better still wearing braces now I always wear braces with my three-piece suits and people often comment why are you wearing braces if no one can see them the reason I'm wearing braces is they hold the TR is up at the correct position and means the waste coat can sit properly on them and stay in place all day without
them moving you what you'll find sometimes with self-supporting trousers is that throughout the day they might slightly lower a bit or as braces keep them in place so if you want to look smart particularly for a formal occasion wear braces under your waste coat so if you are looking to start a waste coat wardrobe I'd always suggest starting with plain neutrals things like buff bit creams always look great and they complement so many different colors materials I like flannels I like uh hop sack walls and then for summer I like linen I think those colors
and those Fabrics work really well together um I also quite like Grays I think if you go for things like a gray flannel with a little bit of warmth to it a little bit of texture that can also be interesting but I would always suggest starting with with with your beiges now as you can see from this outfit and some of the outfits I've worn in the past I do like a patterned waste coat worn with a plain suit although I would say those are actual waist coats I've had from other three pie suits I
wouldn't necessarily go out and purchase a patterned waste coat to stand alone I don't like that as much I don't I'd want the value of having as part of a 3p suit and having the confidence to mix it up you don't see it so much now it comes and goes out a fashion I've got a feeling it will come back soon is the florals and the briet silk waste coats which you see for weddings now I think they can be supremely elegant for morning dress they're trickier to build into your daily wardrob they look very
fancy and very evening wear or very morning dress so if you're looking for Waste coat you can wear with your loung suits Wars and in are better buttons on a waist coat um as part of a three-piece suit should always match the rest of the suits of course um but if it's an oddway coat I I like to choose mother of pearl this one here has a beautiful cream natural mother of pearl which I feel is very neutral but still elegant so let's talk about the pears this vest here and I sometimes use the word
vest I sometimes use the word waste coat now I know that will trigger some of you that hate anything to do with American English um but actually interesting point on saval roow the waste coat is always referred to as a vest in the rest of England we call it a waste coat but in savvo and I think in America we call it a vest so I use both so this version here has no lapels it's very clean and for linen that's my favorite combination so I think linen has a lot of texture to it and
a lot of visual interest it doesn't need lapels I like the Simplicity of it particularly if it's white it looks very very simple very very paired back most dou breasty was coats you purchase would come with a lapel it's the most common combination uh this one has a peak theel exactly the same you would find on a traditional Blazer or suit jacket also the Lael rolls again just like on a Blazer and it has a much lower fastening than single breasted with a straight bottom this is the most popular combination now on a single breasted
waist coat with leels the most traditional conservative option would be to like would be a notch the pel sometimes with a step collar exactly like I have on my single breasted jacket so it matches very simply and very elegantly my favorite theel shape on a waist coat is actually a sh color I think it works well for single breasted double breasted and regardless of what shape of the pear you have on your on your jacket uh this style here has a beautiful sweeping Shore color which I think is very dramatic you'll also notice it's quite
low button with only four buttons so when the jacket's done up you can just see a hint of waste coat coming at the top now I love this style now this style of waste coat has been bored from evening wear um I think it works really well for occasion dressing it's not really a business look nor the pattern nor the style so if you're looking for a waste coat for a wedding perhaps this be a great option to consider either matching or a contrasting club and this W Co here I'm sure you've probably seen it
before if you've seen previous ramp inco videos they often wear it um is a is a Twist on the classic double breasted buff waist coat very very classic but a couple of twists to it first of all it also has a sha collar which again I really appreciate that lovely clean sweeping shape with that lovely curve and to accentuate that lapel itself rather than being rolled back is actually on a curve so it's actually a slight curve to the open of the waist coat as well which I think is very very smart and interestingly the
bottom of the waist coat rather than being the traditional straight across has a soft Peak to the bottom which you often see on single breast waist coats so although this I think was ready made to get this type of style you probably have to get made to measure Orit spoke so this is a 12 oz or 360 G Woolen flannel which I wear with suits but I also wear it sometimes underneath a tweed jacket which is also a very smart look if you're looking for a winter was coat we of your tweets you often find
them into traditional country Wear shops the materials you'll find will be things like do skin Melton offer in colors like mustard racing greens burgundies and occasionally you might find them in really old fashion shops like the T or check so if you're looking for a wind to waste coat to wear with tweed or underneath your wax jacket that's a really good place to look these types of waste coats also I feel can sometimes be worn by themselves if you if you are wearing underneath your wax jacket don't necessarily have to have a Tweed coat or
Blazer in between um so that does cover the question I often get asked is can I wear a was scats a standalone garment they can look a bit unfinished um if you want to waste coat you are going to wear as a standalone garment you might want to consider if you're having it made to have a cloth back rather than a lining back because it looks a bit more finished it's also a great feature if you're looking for a waste coat for the the additional warmth it can afford you I'm also asked occasionally can you
wear a waste coat without a tie well certainly you can I tend not to wear a three-piece suit without a tie um it's a little bit sort of sassy Night Fever so not my kind of look but a more casual look particularly the winter waste coats the tasss you can M over knitwear a roll neck with a tassel waste coat or a Mel looks very smart or perhaps a brush cotton shirt and a cette with a with a country check waste coat could look really good so I would say more of a winter no tire
look rather than summer now finally let's talk about busing the bottom button on your waist coat now there's a lot of misinformation out there the story is that Edward iith King of England was slightly rotund in his build so he couldn't do out the bottom button of his waste coats and the Royal courts followed him out of respect and traditional tailor and gentlemen copy that as a rule I've never found any genuine evidence about this lots of people write about it but I think it's an apical Tale But it's one I enjoy and it's one
I believe in and one I follow so if I'm wearing a single breasted waste coat the botom Buton I leave undone now the style of was I usually wear is cut in such a fashion that the bottom button can't be done up it's actually cut in a style which is called sham or blind a likely old school look of it and the old school respect of it even though it's a probably untrue story I say it's untrue because if you look at Fashion plates before um the time of April the 7th um you will see
the oldfashioned waste coats which were cut much longer down to the knee the botom buttons were always left undone so you could walk in them now here's another waste coat and all the buttons are designed to be done up if you you could or the Taylor could have added a fifth button here where it cuts away and that couldn't have been buttoned up you could decide if you so wish to undo this button if that's your style you must consider is how your trousers fit if you're wearing highwaisted trousers and your waist coat sting over
the trousers it probably be more comfortable to undo the button but if your button can be done up and it doesn't pull and it fits neatly onto the trousers perhaps if they're quite slim flat fronty trousers and it's looking for overall clean look you heard it from me you can button up the button it's fine double breasty waist GS now this is why I get asked a lot and a lot of comments I see in um about when I wear double rested was coat why have you done a of buttons there is no rule history
tale you should ever undo a button on a double breasted waste coat double breasted waste coats you do all the buttons up if it gives you great enjoyment to undo this button like I often see go ahead and do it now that's your style if it makes you feel more comfortable if you find it too tight done up I would suggest you always C too tight to begin with and maybe you need to go up a size um but this has no historical pres whatsoever it's merely a fashion well I hope you found that informative
and I've inspired some of you at least to trying some mod waste KS into your wardrobe any questions put it in the comments below and don't forget to subscribe
