you're going to make this gorgeous Botanical face cream you're going to blend together the ingredients to make the base and then you're going to add lots of exciting Botanicals into it believe me it's going to be so much fun and you'll feel so accomplished at the end you've now arrived at your first formulation lesson and I could not be more excited for you now that you know how to create your natural formulation philosophy in lesson one which is so important and you know which tools you need to formulate as you saw in lesson two in
this episode you're going to learn how to make the base for a natural face cream in a matter of minutes honestly it's so easy you can do this too this is the part that always amazes people in our master classes they just can't believe that all along they've been able to make their own beauty products too you'll see how fun it is and how magical it feels a whole world will open up to you as soon as you realize that the mainstream beauty industry has been telling you for decades that this is a really complicated
scient specific subject and yet in this short lesson I'm going to dispel that myth for you by showing you how to make the base of a creamy natural face cream with just a water bath two beakers a set of scales a thermometer and a mini whisk that's all it's that simple and then in lesson five we're going to make your face cream Botanical by adding extracts into it and then by lesson seven we're going to preserve your face cream so that it's safe to use I'm going to break it down for you really simply so
that we can cover these steps together one one by one and so that you can see that making your own face cream is fun it's easy and it's empowering so you're going to watch us make this face cream in stages you can either follow along with us each time that we formulate or you can wait until the end of episode 7 to make the whole formulation in one go I recommend you do follow along in stages and practice while you do it because you can learn how to complete each stage properly and then if something
goes wrong Don't Panic All formulators have things go wrong by the way then that will be your practice for the finished product so if you're making the face cream just to learn how to do it then it's fine doing it in stages and making the face cream days apart but if you're formulating the face cream to actually use it then I recommend that you wait until the end of episode 7 when it's fully preserved so you can follow along in one go because by the time you get to episode 7 your Emulsion won't be fresh
and adding a preservative at that stage won't kill off any microbial growth that's occurred in it the preservative will only prevent future contamination and that's also why we recommend that you buy enough ingredients to make the formulation three times while you go through the master class that way you can practice a couple of times discard your practice creams and then make the finished product before we start though I have a confession to make I know I said all of our lessons in this master class were going to be no more than 10 minutes but this
one is ever so slightly longer because of all the formulation teaching that you'll receive for free I've got so much to cover and I'm so excited to share this with you so I hope you'll give me a couple of extra minutes today we'll be getting started shortly and then we'll get straight into formulating but before we do that let me quickly help you understand what we're going to be making so for the base of our face cream we are going to make what is called an Emulsion so emulsions are found everywhere in the Cosmetics world
because they feel more hydrating on the skin your face cream your body lotion your hand cream your eye cream your conditioner these are all emulsions which means that they're creams consisting of a blend of oil and water two ingredients that don't want to mix together but have been brought together with the help of an ingredient called an uls of fire and just to demonstrate to you what I mean I'm going to take this Beaker of water right here and I'm going to pour a small amount of apricot oil on top of it so here we
go what you'll now see is that the oil instantly separates out and floats on top of the water I could Stir It with this glass rod I could shake it I could Churn it but these two ingredients will not blend together unless I add an emulsify so without getting too deep into the science an emulsifier is a molecule that has a head that loves water and a tail that loves oil and it can then connect the two together to become an Emulsion which we also know as a cream or a lotion it's so cool so
easy to do and we'll be getting started in just one minute now despite emulsions being everywhere in the world of Beauty Natural emulsification is still a skill that terrifies many formulators because it's viewed as such an advanced process in fact to many untrained formulators emulsification seems a little bit like a dark art which is why I'm going to show you how simple it is we could have chosen a two ingredient body oil to get you started but I wanted us to tackle something that seems really scary but actually isn't so you can see that even
if this is really easy and achievable then you'll know that I'm right when I say that everyone can formulate so it's time to formulate you [Music] ready welcome to the formula Botanica formulation lab we're going to get started with our formulation so we're making a face cream throughout this month masterclass which is a beautiful facial moisturizer that you can apply day or night and that you can use to nourish sooth and hydrate the skin so face creams are emulsions and these formulations can contain lots of beautiful high performance ingredients that can really help looking after
our facial skin so you could use this face cream in the morning as a moisturizer that you apply under your SPF but you could also use it before going to bed so make sure that you have your workbook to hand so that you can fill in the blanks while you watch this episode episode you may even want to watch it twice once to see the process and then when you have your ingredients once to follow along or you might want to wait with formulating until the end of lesson 7 when you've watched me make the
whole formulation and it's safely preserved now let me walk you through everything that I've got here firstly I'm using a hot plate because I'm not in my kitchen but you could do this on a stove very easily so don't worry about that on top of that hot plate I've got a water bath which you could again easily do with a pan of water on your stove so I've heated the water bath there's water inside it and it's hot enough to warm my two beakers to 75° C and I have my thermometer here so I can
measure the temperature of the ingredients in both of my beakers really simple right so just to recap I've got a hot plate I've got a water bath and I've got a thermometer I'll also be using two glass beakers a mini whisk and a set of scales that's it this is how all of our students start as well so I've got two beakers here one of which contains apricot oil which is an oil that you may have come across before as it's very popular in skincare so in this Beaker I've weighed out 7 gram of apricot
oil it feels really light on the skin and it's fairly neutral in color as you can see but also neutral in fragrance and we've mainly chosen it because it's a great amoland which will be really nice in our face cream and also because it's really easy to find all over the world apricot oil is extracted by pressing the kernels that you find inside your apricot fruits so these kernels are full of oils and this oil contains many chemical properties that make it anti-inflammatory and antioxidant which means that it's ideal for formulations intended for people with
sensitive or acne prone skin it's also just a really beautiful Botanical oil that feels amazing regardless of your skin type my other Beaker here contains chamomile hydrol now I've weighed out 35 G of hydrol this Beaker you might have seen or used chomal before it's really popular in skincare and it has an almost Apple likee scent I love growing chamomile in my herb garden here at home chamomile can help soothe dry skin or it can help alleviate minor skin irritations a hydrol is a scented flour water that's produced when distilling essential oils because so much
water comes out of the distillation process and the hydrol is fragrant and it contains Botanical compounds now although we are adding a fragrance in lesson five which will be lavender essential oil this chomal hydrol will also play a role in the finished fragrance of our face cream it's a beautiful plant and we absolutely love formulating with it and I'm sure you will too and then finally here I have my emulsifier which I'm going to use which is called Olive M 1000 that's its trade name but all cosmetic ingredients also have a standardized name called an
Inky name now now don't worry I'll explain all of this in Lesson Four so although the trade name for this emulsifier is Olive m1000 its scientific name its Inky name is CT olivate and sorbitan olivate and these are two chemical compounds that are derived from plant material and then Blended together in a lab to create this emulsifier so using our classification system from lesson one this is the perfect example of a naturally derived ingredient Olive m1000 is very easy to work with which is why I've chosen it today I want to show you just how
simple it is to make a natural Emulsion or cream so before we get started I just want to add that if you can't get hold of these three ingredients I'm going to talk you through Alternatives in lesson 8 once we finished making the Emulsion so don't worry about that now let's make the first stage of our Emulsion we're going to make 50 g of face cream or Emulsion across the lessons in this master class and I'm going to walk you through it step by step as I said I've already weighed out 35 G of chomal
hydrol 7 G of apricot oil and I'm now going to weigh out 2 and 1/2 gr of olive M 1000 our msif fire that means that we're going to make a lotion base that totals 44 and a half gram in this lesson and then in lessons five and 7 we'll be adding the Botanicals and the preservative to get the total weight up to 50 g we'll send you the full formulation once we finish lesson s so the equipment has been set up the ingredients have been prepared and using the water bath we're now going to
gently warm the ingredients because this particular emulsifier works with heat it wouldn't work if all of the ingredients were left cold although there are some cold process of MiFi just not this one and we chose this one because it's really easy to find in or ship to most countries and we always have tens of thousands of students just like you go through this master class so we're using cosmetic ingredients that are easy to find from any of the hundreds of online cosmetic ingredient suppliers worldwide I'm now going to weigh out 2 and 1/2 G of
olive m1000 pellets to the apricot oil in this Beaker here and as you know I've already added chomal hydrosol to this Beaker here so we're now going to add both beakers to the water bath so that they can heat up to 75° C and one top tip to remember is that because our water phase so the beaker that contains our hydrol this one here is so much bigger than our oil phase the beaker that contains the apricot oil and the emulsifier I'm going to give the water phase a head start in the water bath so
that the contents in both beakers roughly reach the same temperature at the same time it's going to take a few few minutes to get both beakers up to temperature so both beakers have now heated to 75° C by the way don't worry if the water bath isn't exactly 75° just try to hit 75° as a minimum and then anywhere up to 77 or 78 is fine now let's make a simple stable natural Emulsion firstly as you saw I measured the temperature in both beakers to check that they're ready to blend together to create our natural
face cream now as you can see on the thermometer the ingredients in both beakers have reached 75° C you can see it here so what I'm going to do now is I'm going to pour the hydrol in this Beaker into the oil and emulsifier blend in this Beaker to mix them all together and I'm going to blend the ingredients with this sanitized mini whisk while I do it I'm adding the water to the oil but you could also add the oil to the water and do it the other way around but this is a neater
way of doing it because it's easier to pour the hydrol than it is to pour the oil so I'm now blending the ingredients together inside our water bath because the emulsifier needs heat to blend the oil and water together and because I've got quite a big space so the the beakers aren't wobbling around in a a small pan if you are working with a container that makes it slightly harder to do this or causes your beakers to wobble around then you could just remove the beakers and just do this blending part on your workbench but
you'd have to move quickly before the liquid starts to cool down so you're watching me stir these two liquids together and I'm starting to create the beginning of our Emulsion and you can see I'm whisking vigorously because I want to make sure that the oil and water the hydrol come together properly it's also a good way of getting rid of any stress that you might be feeling today I'm going to continue stirring it for a minute or so until I'm sure that it's combined fully so now that the Emulsion has combined together I'm going to
remove the beaker and place it in this cool water bath this is called tap water in a bowl and that way I can continue stirring it for a little while longer again I'm stirring vigorously in both directions to make sure that the oil and water phases are fully combined as the face cream cools down you can however already see that the cream has been emulsified and I can even tell that it's starting to thicken a little bit as it cools and that's it you can see how simple it is to make a natural Emulsion I
made a base for my face cream in just a few minutes wasn't that easy and that's the main reason why I've shown you how to make an Emulsion it's because people always think that emulsification is really hard I could have made a facial oil with two ingredients I could have made a lip balm with three ingredients but I made an Emulsion to show you that even a formulation that people think is hard really isn't so three ingredients just a few really straightforward tools and I now have the base of a face cream look at that
to thicken up have it here on my hands it will feel amazing on the skin and it really already has a gorgeous scent of chamomile so if you can do this in just a few minutes imagine what you can do once you become an organic skincare formulator because together we've now run through the steps required to make your own face cream base and I've shown you that organic skincare formulation is easy but I'm sure you realize that making a simple Emulsion is not enough because if you want your formulations to be truly effective on the
skin you've got to incorporate Botanical ingredients and that's why in The Next Episode we're going to look at how you should research your ingredients to choose the right Botanical for your skincare formulations and then in the following lesson after that we'll be taking this Emulsion and turning it into a Botanical face cream using pumpkin pomegranate lavender and vitamin E before we're going to preserve the whole Emulsion in lesson s soon you'll have this finished cream on your bathroom shelf and you'll be able to use it safely over a period of about six months so make
sure you watch the next lesson because that one can make the difference between a boring skincare product filled with inactive ingredients and a formulation that actually works so I want you to have a go now or wait until you've watched the full formulation after episode 7 so grab your apricot oil your chomal hydrol and your emulsifier make your own lotion base and complete the activities in your workbook for today I'll see you in the next episode [Music] he [Music]
