Chapter 14 THE VOCABULARY OF FASHION CHANEL is a vocabulary, a set of canons, a discipline. A grammar. The handbag CHANEL drew inspiration from men’s military satchels.
Their bags equipped with straps became an essential, which she refashioned in jersey fabric lined with grosgrain. In February of 1955, Gabrielle Chanel gave it a quilted diamond-shaped pattern for improved wear and comfort, enhanced it with burgundy lining, stamped it with a double "C", and transformed the strap into an interlaced chain slipped through two eyelets. The 2.
55 was born. The Little black dress A revolutionary style, reminiscent of the uniform worn by the nuns at Aubazine. It did away with the constraints of corsets and created a new silhouette, that of Parisian chic.
Karl Lagerfeld constantly reinvents it in jersey, crêpe and silk. The costume jewelry The illumination of Gabrielle Chanel. Long necklaces made of baroque gemstones, cabochon crosses, and crystal adornments depict precious glimpses into her life, where Venetian and Byzantine influences are side by side with the Duke of Westminster's England and the Grand-Duke Dimitri's Russia.
They enhance the structure of any dress, like stained glass from the Middle Age illuminates a nave. The Camellia A flower picked from Coromandel screens, used to embellish hats, dresses and shoes. Mademoiselle made it her emblem.
She preferred white camellias, and would depict its geometric perfection on a little black dress like a halo of light. Either made of cotton, leather or silk; embroidered, printed or knitted the camellia is completely scentless, as not to cast a shadow on N°5. The Chain Coco reinterprets it into belts, bracelets and necklaces.
She would weave them out of leather or embellish them with charms. Karl Lagerfeld uses them abundantly and transforms them into rhinestone and resin. Its most mysterious manifestation: the chain-link trim sewn inside the hem of the CHANEL jacket to ensure a perfect fall.
The Two-tone shoes The "final touch of elegance," as Gabrielle Chanel used to say. They were two-toned because beige lengthens the leg while black hides spots and makes the foot appear more petite. In the form of pumps, boots or sneakers, the two-toned shoe fits all walks of life, putting the ultimate finishing touch on the silhouette with a graphic movement similar to dotting one's i's.
The Pearl A symbol of good luck worn around the neck, Gabrielle Chanel wore endless strands with her outfits. She would only appear in her workshops bearing her luminescent shield and cherished their white color, which enhanced her signature black. Like a magician, Karl Lagerfeld lavishly experiments with pearls to make them the shimmering signature of CHANEL.
Tweed Originally from Scotland, Gabrielle was inspired by the Duke of Westminster, who wore it hunting, and she softened the fabric to create timeless, comfortable suits for women. Reworked each season, tweed is reinvented by Karl Lagerfeld to create silk-lined jackets showcasing legendary braided trim or a casual fringe. The tweed jacket never goes out of style.
As Mademoiselle used to say, "Fashion passes; style remains.
